Removing fuel sender (68 Coronet)

[Hilljack68]

I've done a search on this topic and seem to be coming up short on accurate information.

I have already determined that my sending unit is bad, and needs rebuilt. Now the question is, do I need to REMOVE the tank to remove the sending unit?... or can I just lower the tank part-way to get the sender out?

I'm doing this on my back, with the car on jack stands. I will have a jack with a block-o-wood on it (for weight distribution). I saw an old post that said I could remove the sender without even lowering the tank... horse ****, because the sending unit will never clear the pumpkin.

So again, can I just lower the tank, or do I need to remove it?

Thanks boys! .....and Merry Christmas!

 

[Mackman]

You can get the sender out without lowering the tank.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Support the car on stands and let the rear axle hang down so sender will clear the punkin.

 

[Hilljack68]

Support the car on stands and let the rear axle hang down so sender will clear the punkin.

Ok, right now I have the jack stands on the axle. So, put them on the frame instead?... ok, sounds feasible.

 

[BigLime]

Please lower the tank. I removed my old one without lowering the tank and the end fell into the tank. It was a whole lot of fun getting it out!

 

[pnora]

Support the car on stands and let the rear axle hang down so sender will clear the punkin.

No need to lower the tank. Make sure it is very low on fuel. Remove the hoses,wire, and ground strap. Knock the ring off and maneuver the unit out of the tank. You have to be careless in order to knock the float off.

 

[hunt2elk]

What everyone else has said, don't mess around dropping the tank. This is not a hard project. It is easier if you jack the body up so the rearend is lower, but I have done it on the ground. Just have to twist and turn it just right to get it out.

 

[Mackman]

As previously posted. I have removed them multiple times in a 67 Coronet and 69 GTX. Just let the axle hang, they come out easily without damaging the sender.

 

[Paul_B]

As previously mentioned, no need to drop the tank. I would suggest cleaning the surface dirt around the sender before removing the sender so you don’t get a bunch of crap in the tank.

As a note, after removing my original sender I was able to repair. My float was full of gas so it didn’t float. I put cleaned connections, replaced the float, and put the original back in as I’ve heard the originals are better than some of the aftermarket stuff.

 

[moparedtn]

Any concerns as to using tools that won't cause sparks or is that overkill?

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Any concerns as to using tools that won't cause sparks or is that overkill?

Just use a propane torch to heat the lock ring first. No problem with sparking after that.....

Oh ****! I'm JUST KIDDING! Don't Do this! It's a joke. (My attorney advised me to add the disclaimer)

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Seriously, I bought one of these to use on my Mopars, and it works pretty well instead of the old punch and chisel method.
Lock Ring Removal Tool Mopar, Ford, Mercury, Lincoln

 

[moparedtn]

Seriously, I bought one of these to use on my Mopars, and it works pretty well instead of the old punch and chisel method.
Lock Ring Removal Tool Mopar, Ford, Mercury, Lincoln

Beats my old "dead-blow and a wooden dowel" method for sure.

 

[BigLime]

No need to lower the tank. Make sure it is very low on fuel. Remove the hoses,wire, and ground strap. Knock the ring off and maneuver the unit out of the tank. You have to be careless in order to knock the float off.

Ok, OK, maybe knocking it off was my fault... Not careless though.

 

[mtbase]

Agreed, you shouldn't need to drop the tank and open a possible "can of worms".

One more thing:
You'll probably want to have another sending unit on-hand, just in case you can't repair yours. It will be a good visual reference, for how the neck, pick-up, and float are bent....and make extraction easier

AND keep the original lock ring!

I couldn't find a NOS one and all the ones available are China made. The new China lock rings are thinner and don't seal tight. I chased sealing and drips for months before I figured that out.

Use your old lock ring

 

[Jag91]

Where do you guys recommend having the sender repaired at?

 

[Hilljack68]

BeeKeeper says he knows of a guy in NE Ohio... John Wolf and Co (440) 942-0083 Willoughby,OH