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Repairing this radiator leak? (photo)

Secret Chimp

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:17 AM
Joined
May 19, 2011
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Location
Eugene, OR
I recently discovered one of the tubes in my radiator appears to be leaking. I've read up some on solder repair, but I'm still not entirely clear how to do this well.

Here's what the leaking area looks like (in the center with the glop, stuff to the left is dirty with some spilled coolant from the cap from awhile ago).

fXeQu.jpg


What I don't quite understand is how I get the solder all the way down that tube to the front, much less how to get it cleaned out in there. People talk about just using high-wattage soldering irons (which I have) but how am I supposed to heat that tube enough when the radiator is 3-4 inches thick? I've only dealt with soldering electronics. This is a 26 inch radiator on a 67 Coronet with a 318 and a towing package - I think it's the same core type as a big block 26 inch radiator, just with different positions for the hoses.
 
Its a pain in the a$$ to repair.Looks to me that one is aged and you repair one spot and make it leak in another.Alot of times i will just eliminate a tube and solder it shut on the tank top and bottom.I use a small propane torch and it needs to be clean before you try it or the solder will just fall off.If i were you i would take it in to a shop to get it fixed and then they can pressure test it right away.
 
Nuts that's what I was afraid of. I was hoping to DIY it since new ones seem to run at least $270. I'll have to see what reputable shops there are around my area.
 
See that green **** at the top of the core in the pic? That's what copper does when it ages. When a radiator has that on it, it's toast. I know that's not what you wanted to hear, but anybody tells you different and you'll be forever havin radiator troubles. You might fix it for a week or so, but it's GONNA leak again.
 
The leak isn't very bad so far. I've driven it a few hundred miles and I'm not losing coolant very fast. I did find an eBay radiator that will fit my car for $170 shipped so I guess I'm not in so bad. First original part on the car outside of suspension pieces I've needed to replace!
 
After putting the fan through the radiator, I had the 26 inch recored to a four row. $400. Outrageous amount of money but worth it.
 
$650 for a 63 plymouth 3 row double ouch.My radiator looked like secret chimps from the bottom of the top tank radiator shop wouldn't consider soldering said once they dipped it to clean it so it could be soldered copper would be too thin.
 
Once the green starts, ive fixed them still yet, but its only a matter of time as any ive tried never made it long after without another leak or two.. Not what you want to hear but in the long run, you would be saving money getting one new now, or maybe a used good one.
 
get a new one....champion....200 buxx...problem solved!

I agree but some like to retain the original look and those aluminum units are far from it.Classic Industries does sell some copper ones that are similar to OE in appearance but they are $400 clams.
 
Also, like my 26" Hemi or 440 big block w/ AC.. the tank numbers can be considered RARE. That is why I had mine re-cored...
You get to keep your original tanks and have a new core installed.
But, I understand...a radiator job can be pricey for some.
 
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