Replacement Alternator AMP Max

[Tyron68]

I do have another question related to my alternator. I had an aftermarket, small amp/subwoofer installed last year. I noticed that they connected a wire from the battery to the bulk head connector AND ran a wire from the alternator stud to the bulkhead as well. My questions is why a wire is ran from the alternator to the bulkhead connector? I took it off. Thoughts on this?

 

[Tyron68]

Good to read the relay kit helped.

The increase in alternator amps really isn't for the max output. Usually the low rpm output levels are increased. As others have mentioned, you want an alternator that puts out adequate energy at idle to allow all the requested power to be satisfied, WITHOUT having to backfeed/draw from the battery. That is when the bulkhead starts to fry.

I like the densos off a late 80's toyota PU/4runner. They don't look original, they do put out good power at idle speeds. Changing the alternator pulley can help low speed as well. Make sure you don't exceed the max rpm and over rev it, same as an engine limit.

So far so good on the amps at idle. It’s a 65/35 max amp alternator. I drove the car yesterday evening and ran with AC on, stereo on and headlights on and no issue. This is the 4th time I’ve done this since I got everything put back together. Again, wanted to be cautious in the alt I purchased with not over doing the amperage as I don’t want to have to mess with wiring upgrades, etc..The headlamp relay hardness was very mindless install, except I didn’t have enough room under my battery tray so I mounted the stuff on the sidewall just in front of battery tray.

 

[Tyron68]

well, he corrected me the Idle spell ( even it was a typo mistake, but who cares ). Maybe that could be rated as "productive add"? LOL.

Still with that, I won't correct him how "Ccompressor or rhe Sundun" phrase must be spell it... oooooops


@Tyron68 sorry for all this colateral discussion half-higjhacking your thread, but it is what it is with this guy when begins to post replies without any respect.

All good!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

So far so good on the amps at idle. It’s a 65/35 max amp alternator.

OH! SURPRISE! AROUND HALF OF THE MAX OUTPUT AT IDLE… LOL

(Don’t let it know to nobody here)

 

[Tyron68]

OH! SURPRISE! AROUND HALF OF THE MAX OUTPUT AT IDLE… LOL

(Don’t let it know to nobody here)

I won’t lol

 

[Sinitro]

Needing to replace my alternator (68 charger 440, added AC). The alternator that was on the car had part # 3874271 on back. What is the biggest amp alternator I can go with without upgrading wiring?

Check out the Power Master alternators, they have a 95Amp with single or double pulley that bolts right up like the original.
Made in the USA.

Just my $0.02...

 

[chrger1967]

Why?? If you are NOT adding any additional accessories, you DO NOT need to change anything. The old expression "IF IT'S NOT BROKEN, IT DOESN’T NEED FIXING" applies, in spite of what "others" think, do,or say. The original ammeter circuit will work just fine, the headlight kit relay, does not need the ammeter bypassed to function, it receives the headlight power thru the relay kit directly from the battery not through the bulk head wiring, hence, no need to change anything, other than the relay kit's source...it actually removes the headlight power from the factory wiring....do not be goaded into listening to the uneducated as in #7 above. Just my opinion, of course....
BOB RENTON

How about LED headlights, would you need a relay for them or is it still a good idea for the relay anyway?

 

[RJRENTON]

How about LED headlights, would you need a relay for them or is it still a good idea for the relay anyway?

LED headlamps consume approximately half (50% less) as many amps that of the normal tungsten or quartz halogen lamps, therefore there is NO NEED for a relay system sourced from the battery.......just my opinion.....
BOB RENTON

 

[Sinitro]

How about LED headlights, would you need a relay for them or is it still a good idea for the relay anyway?

If U are seriously considering upgrading to LED headlights below are a few thoughts:
1. Unlike the OE incadescent headlights, the brightness of LED headlights is more
dependent on current rather than voltage so modifying the wiring and adding relays is not required.
The LED headlight current draw is about 25% of the OE incadescents.
2. For mounting LED headlights in our legacy Mopars, depending on brand check carefully their depth.
Many require modifying the buckets for clearance, note the Holley retro-brights drop rite in no mods required.
3. Upgrading to LEDs headlights is strongly recommended, they have a wider, brighter dispersion plus being long-life.

Just my $0.02...

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Wow! For a degreed member allways attacking me because my “inconsistent” and mathematically “not prooved” posts or opinions, affirming the LED consumption is “approximately half of tungsten or halogen lamps” (being both way diff loads rates even between them)… is… kinda out of consistency to support its consistent attacks LOL.

Actually… LEDs consumption is closer to Sinitro’s posted rate (depending on LED setup selection) against tungsten (OE)

Whaaaaatever…

(Just my opinion)