Replacing clutch

[jimbosride]

ckessel ​

Got burned by not cleaning up the flywheel once ..... what a chatter mess

 

[OKDart]

Here's a link to my thread replacing my first clutch.
Clutch Replacement

Not sure your experience level, but on your tear down description it just says remove transmission. More specifically separate from bell housing first, then remove bell housing from engine.
If you go from 3 finger clutch to diaphragm, you will need to remove the big over center spring from the clutch pedal (tricky).
As far as the pilot bushing, I tried the removal trick where you pack it with grease and hammer it out with a punch that fills the void. It didn't work for me and I had to chisel it out. Bronze or roller is your choice, but when I replaced the clutch on my work truck with 150k miles, the grease was gone from the rollers and 2 of the rollers were missing, probably disintegrated.
Also you will probably need to replace the Z bar bushings, mine were gone and the ball studs were ground down too. There's a clip on the outside of the tube that holds one side in position.

 

[radical rob]

You will need to remove the shifter and rods before can remove the trans, probly the mounting plate as well. If all this is out, very least is surface flywheel as mentioned, and new clutch disc, and throw out bearing. This is not a job you want to do often. They make plastic plugs for tail shaft for 5-6 bucks at swap meet tool guy. Remove drive shaft and be ready with that plug. It will drip out and gear lube is dirty, smelly, nasty, and doesn’t come out of clothes easy. Have a drain pan ready in case. Remove trans, 4 bolts. And back it out. Very heavy and awkward, have help. When removing bell housing may need to let engine drop a little in back to reach top bolts. (Have floor Jack under oil pan with a board to help spread weight) then remove pressure plate clutch and flywheel. Flywheel bolts are different from just about every other bolt, don’t lose them. Use lock tite when reinstalling flywheel. Ps flywheel heavy also, be ready to control it as comes off crank. When reinstalling flywheel pressure plate etc, CLEAN them, no greasy fingerprints. That will trash your set up quickly and you will get to do it again. Brake cleaner works here. Sure there will be plenty more advice from other folks for you as well. Practice a few swear word as well. You will use them.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

You're missing the Factory Service Manual. Call Brewer's for any parts you need.

Try to adjust bellhousing runout while the trans is out. Also, on installation, use 2+ 5”-7” bolts of the same thread as the trans to bellhousing bolts. You can use 2 or more long bolts to hold the weight of the trans while you’re sliding it home

 

[YY1]

There's a thing we used to call a "butt plug" that has splines and is the correct diameter to engage the seal.

Parts stores sometimes stock them, but only for chevies, of course they won't work on a Mopar.

Should be able to order one.

Usually red plastic and should be fairly cheap.

 

[dadsbee]

And if that ^^^ doesn't work, there's more than one way to skin a cat...

 

[Mick56]

You could drain the trans before starting, then you dont need to worry about leakage. Probably needs new fluid by now, anyway.

 

[70sixpkrt]

I would also balance the new pressure plate to the flywheel.

 

[Road Grabber]

Over the many years of having four speeds and doing it all over again….


I don’t think you plan driving it every day like I did so do it once the right time and don’t worry about waiting to get it back together.

Among the good advice I see:

Don’t assume anything!
-Get the flywheel cut and balanced WITH the new pressure plate. Better yet balance the pressure plate too.
- while you have it out put a NEW tail shaft bushing and seal even if it didn’t leak
-drain the fluid and put new back in. It’s not that expensive and there are some good products out there
- I used to unbolt the exhaust hangers for the mufflers and exhaust tips and keep the exhaust pipes attached at the manifolds and set the oil pan down to the cross member on top of a block of 3/4 plywood. Loosen your engine mounts so you don’t strain your rubber insulators.
-get a dummy pilot shaft from the auto parts store to line up the clutch plate or use an extra input shaft lying around.
-put a new oil light? Bronze pilot bushing back in
-make sure you torque everything properly and do that alternating slowly on the pressure plate and star pattern on the flywheel
-look for any leaks on the rear side of the block while you’re there
-inspect the plastic bushings for the Z-bar and possibly have to put new clips on for the clutch adjustment rod and clutch assembly
- be careful to not get your hand caught if the clutch pedal collapses to the floor
-need a new shifter floor boot so you don’t smell exhaust?
-use six point sockets for the flywheel bolts and flywheel
-check your front trans input shaft bearing for noise - if it’s restoration put a new in
-see if your input shaft cover is leaking and replace the gasket
-inspect the shifter rods for leaks. They leak along with the speedometer cable gear
- new rear seal
-if you can just buy the throw out bearing and reuse the casting that saves money. Cheaper online than auto parts stores
-DO NOT LET THE TRANS HANG DOWN WHEN INSTALLING THE TRANS HALFWAY INTO THE BELL HOUSING
-inspect your drive shaft U joints while you are at it
-get four tall jack stands to give your space

And if course don’t install the clutch plate backwards!

Good luck!

 

[Fran Blacker]

This is the tool to change tailshaft bushing. If you go to a trans shop they should have the tool, works on furd C6 trans. Once they get the tool and wrenches it only willl 10 minutes. There's a bushing on driver to install bushing.