Replacing Fuse Block in '73

[alpentolic]

I've been reading on this forum about the pros and cons of updating the oem fuse block. It sounds like a new dash harness is the best way to go, but I'm trying to get my '73 Van road worthy as soon as possible and save $ for other things it needs.

the old block has a melted slot (heater) from looks like decades ago. Other than that it works but is in really rough shape. I haven't been able to get all my lights to work at the same time, though.

In a pinch could I hook up the fuse box in the pics below, run that fat red to the power post and just spade connect the existing wires to the terminals?

 

[pnora]

Is there a part number on that fuse box? Google it and see what comes up. I would replace the original and find terminals to repair whats there.

 

[blue69runner]

Ho boy it looks like a new box is in order and clean up all the wires coming too it. Heat going through those connectors for all those years will need attention for sure.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

That fuse box seems to be the same than 63-70 B bodies. And I bet the same also to A and C bodies on some years. So plenty of them to get an used one, but new repros are available.

 

[alpentolic]

I've started the search for a replacement stock style box. In the meantime I hooked up the one I had since I had to clip the old connectors out anyway.

Everything seems to work but I'm still not getting brake lights. They don't illuminate for the hazard or turn switch either, but the front does.

I tested the brake switch with a test light. Could it still be bad even if the signal is closed with the switch depressed, but lights up when open?

The other thing that makes no sense to me is the Orange wire that was connected to a fuse in the old box. Diagram says it splices and goes to the illumination lamps as well as the steering column connector and the pin connector in the back of the dash.

When I connect it, it turns on ALL the lights except for the head lamps. Instruments, side runners, front fog lamps, taillights. This happens no matter where I connect it on the box. When it's unplugged I can still get the external lights to come on normally with the pull switch.

Obviously there's a switch pass through somewhere but I can't find anything in the book. And it was just connected normally to the old fuse box without this issue.

 

[pnora]

I've started the search for a replacement stock style box. In the meantime I hooked up the one I had since I had to clip the old connectors out anyway.

Everything seems to work but I'm still not getting brake lights. They don't illuminate for the hazard or turn switch either, but the front does.

I tested the brake switch with a test light. Could it still be bad even if the signal is closed with the switch depressed, but lights up when open?

The other thing that makes no sense to me is the Orange wire that was connected to a fuse in the old box. Diagram says it splices and goes to the illumination lamps as well as the steering column connector and the pin connector in the back of the dash.

When I connect it, it turns on ALL the lights except for the head lamps. Instruments, side runners, front fog lamps, taillights. This happens no matter where I connect it on the box. When it's unplugged I can still get the external lights to come on normally with the pull switch.

Obviously there's a switch pass through somewhere but I can't find anything in the book. And it was just connected normally to the old fuse box without this issue.

View attachment 1462180

You need the factory service manual and with that you can trace out all the circuits.