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Replacing metal gas tank on 72 Satellite

Maxxx

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I'm looking to replace the metal gas tank on my 72 Satellite with a plastic one. Presently it leaks.
I will have a local shop do the work, but likely I will order the part myself, that seems to save money and they don't mind.
Can anyone advise the best way to ensure proper fitment?
It's just a driver and not a dragster.
Should I look for one with an internal or external pump?
I'm wondering what others have done, and what pitfalls to avoid, etc.
 
I'm looking to replace the metal gas tank on my 72 Satellite with a plastic one. Presently it leaks.
I will have a local shop do the work, but likely I will order the part myself, that seems to save money and they don't mind.
Can anyone advise the best way to ensure proper fitment?
It's just a driver and not a dragster.
Should I look for one with an internal or external pump?
I'm wondering what others have done, and what pitfalls to avoid, etc.
Who makes a plastic replacement tank?
 
Good point. I have t heard of a plastic one either.

The tanks not really hard to replace just in case you change your mind and want to do it yourself.

I would replace the sending unit as well along with any hardware since it’s all coming out.
 
Can anyone advise the best way to ensure proper fitment?
Should I look for one with an internal or external pump?
I'm wondering what others have done, and what pitfalls to avoid, etc.
Yes, get a factory-style metal replacement, change the sending unit & sock. Keep engine-mounted fuel pump. It's that simple.
 
Also mark where all of the vacuum lines go for the canister behind the driver side rear wheel. I know a 71 has them not sure about the 72. OP must be talking about a fuel cell. I have never seen a plastic tank.
 
2 recommendations to replace the sending unit? Are they finally making them accurate now? for the last 20 plus years all the aftermarket senders have read incorrectly.
If yours is working, just inspect/replace the sock and float, but keep the original sender.
 
Well....I would recommend welding up the tank you have or replacing it with a factory replacement metal tank AND (as mentioned), keep your factory original sending unit if it's working.... the aftermarket ones all suck. Just put a new in-tank "fuel sock" on it
 
Well....I would recommend welding up the tank you have or replacing it with a factory replacement metal tank AND (as mentioned), keep your factory original sending unit if it's working.... the aftermarket ones all suck. Just put a new in-tank "fuel sock" on it
Thanks guys, I regret not getting back to this thread I started earlier... Based on feedback I shall aim to replace with OEM metal tank and keep original sending unit. Issues I would love input on:

1. Does anyone know of reputable garage in area of Grand Bend / Exeter / Forest, Ontario that could handle the work? I've had tires and oil changes done at Bax Bros Auto in Thedford / Northville, they seem decent so I'll likely take it there unless someone knows of a nearby classic specialist.

2. Are there any better quality sources than classic industries? And I'm wondering which of the two is better, the F6013B "plated steel w niterne coating (same as original)" or the cheaper F6013A "stamped steel w zinc coating"?

3. Where / how can I obtain a new sock, and other hardware to put on the new tank? Classic industries has several floats listed for my year and model, does anyone know which one (ohm range) is correct for my car? 72 Satellite 2dr (Roadrunner clone)

4. Any other considerations for parts or install?
 
Save the border hassle... just order your tank and parts from National Moparts in Beaverton. You'll need to know if yours is an ECS tank (4 vent holes) or not.

I'll ask my cousin Mike from Arkona if he knows a good classics garage.
 
I'm pretty sure that th 1972 tanks have the 4 vent holes facing forward just above the rear diff. whereas the 71 tank vent holes were on the side of the tank on the drivers side.
 
Roger that!
I'm I the US twice a month but I'll check national for pricing.
4 vents on mine. Do I have to keep these vents? What would happen if I got one without? The vents are presently cracked and the source of this trouble.
 
Are the vent tubes themselves cracked or is the vapour separator that's in front of it cracked?

I'm not sure you can get a tank that doesn't have the vent tubes in it.
They are required to keep the pressure in the tank neutral or you will have fuel coming out of the filler neck past the gas cap.
 
Are the vent tubes themselves cracked or is the vapour separator that's in front of it cracked?

I'm not sure you can get a tank that doesn't have the vent tubes in it.
They are required to keep the pressure in the tank neutral or you will have fuel coming out of the filler neck past the gas cap.
Tubes are cracked but I'll check VS also.
And that's a good reason to keep vents.
 
(Cont'd)
I'm pretty sure vents are on drivers side not front of tank, possibly because my car was rebuilt as a 71 clone by last owner.
I'll look over everything again this weekend before ordering parts and booking service.
 
Early 72's had the vents on the drivers side venting into the evap can in the wheel well like 71's. Late had them in front. If the can is not leaking get the 71- early 72 tank.
 
Max, is your vapour separator located in the drivers side rear wheel well?
That's where the 71's, early 72's were located.
 
Canadian made tanks are the best quality*.

The most common brand is IIRC Spectra.

Keep your sending unit if it is working. (you may want to replace the "sock" filter if it's cruudy and you can find one)

* the reproduction lock rings for the sender are not good. Keep and reuse the one on your old tank.

It's not a hard job to do yourself.

I didn't see it mentioned, but there is no pump in the tank.
The factory pump is on the side of the front of the engine.
 
The cut-over was April 1, ’72, Spectra CR10A (vent nipples on drivers side, same as ’71) and Spectra CR10B (nipples on the front of the tank, also used for '73).

The early wheel well mounted fuel tank vapor separator was prone to rust caused pin holes due to heavy water exposure in the wheel well, inspect/test for leaks. If the hoses appear cracked/aged in any way, replace all hoses.
 
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