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Replacing Valve Covers... ?

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Hi all.. I'm working on getting my car back on the road after sitting far too long. I'm wanting to replace the valve covers, probably with one of these
1. Ansen 340 covers Mopar Performance 340 Custom Engraved Valve Covers - Black or
2. Proform mopar covers Proform Parts 440-751 Proform Stamped Steel Mopar Valve Covers | Summit Racing

#1 look great and are surely higher quality, but #2 with the blue font looks real nice and would match the block (even better if I actually cleaned the block)

My main question tho, the Proforms, unless i'm wrong, have the pcv hole on the driver side back, and the breather on the passenger front, which matches what I have currently.. see pic attached.
The Ansen's looks like its opposite. I guess this isn't a big deal but my main issue with the current covers is the pain of pouring in oil since both holes have baffles under them it takes forever!

I think the ideal setup with be the Ansen's with an extra hole drilled for a fill cap. The pictures show places there for them. Not sure if they can do that on request or if that'd be up to me.
Any thoughts/suggestions/advice?

PXL_20230731_002402695sm.jpg
 
I guess this isn't a big deal but my main issue with the current covers is the pain of pouring in oil since both holes have baffles under them it takes forever!
Any thoughts/suggestions/advice?
You asked. You're worried about the time it takes to pour oil ? I'd be more worried about leaks and the quality of manufacturing of the parts. Me, I wouldn't use chinese stamped steel covers. The others, I'd still be wary. What would I do ? Clean and polish the ones on there now if they're not leaking. Or, if you'd rather, get a set of good condition M/T or other similar valve covers, check for straightness, refurbish ( blast/paint, or powdercoat by Cuda Chick ), and install.
1690768394583.png
Harry... keep the change.
 
I had a set of valve covers for my 340 Road Runner that always seemed to leak. By the third time I (tried) to use them, I gave up assuming it was my issue with installation and realized it was the valve covers.

Below is a picture of my stroker motor being built with the third (and last) time I tried to use those valve covers. They looked nice until they leaked oil all over the place...
20210806_210812.jpg


Bottom line is I learned fit is really important. I never had issues with my original stamped steel valve covers and set of old M/T valve covers seemed to work well too.
 
I had a set of valve covers for my 340 Road Runner that always seemed to leak. By the third time I (tried) to use them, I gave up assuming it was my issue with installation and realized it was the valve covers.

Below is a picture of my stroker motor being built with the third (and last) time I tried to use those valve covers. They looked nice until they leaked oil all over the place...
View attachment 1502507

Bottom line is I learned fit is really important. I never had issues with my original stamped steel valve covers and set of old M/T valve covers seemed to work well too.
Aluminum covers often interfere with the intake and leak like a sieve. I have bought a couple sets of M/T's that have been ground for clearance. If you don't look close you may never see where the interference is.

20201102_140605.jpg
 
Thanks for the input, I'll stick with these for now at least. I got the carb cleaned/rebuilt. Now I have another issue figure out.. will make a different topic for it tho.
PXL_20230807_202534130.jpg
 
Manufacturers only cast one side now and sell two of them as "pairs." The Ansens have knockout bosses for PCV valves and the el cheapo ProForms are static/as is.
It's interesting that the small block ProForm set has the opening on the right side but it's on the left on the big block versions.
 
I put these on a build for a guy, but not a fan of them. Might be a hair better on a blue motor.
20221221_190319.jpg
 
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