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roll bars

bearman

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need pics of roll bars and materials used. street or strip post them up please. thanks in advance
 
are you going to do it yourself, jegs makes a nice pre bent kit just weld it up
 
undecided, bought a pipe bender but i have seen but have seen some great kits s and w have a 8pt and 10 pt at a great price. you can add swing out arms etc. so i thought if you folks can give me the know how of the pro's and con's would be helpful.
 
just checked out jegs they don't carry a roll for my year of car
 
I’m going to do my first roll bar soon, so I’m interested as well. Got a quote for $2400 for a 8 point moly bar, that’ll never happen.
 
look at s and w roll bars they have mild steel and moley comes with floor plates. add ones also you can start with a 8 pts and later if needed add extra tubes.
 
just checked it out looks the same as s & W just a few bucks higher. thank you for your input will decide which way i'm going here in a couple weeks. want to tie in the sub frame connectors to roll bar. still need to install relocation kit.
 
I built mine out of Moly .083" (some bars can be as thin as .050") for weight savings. Moly must be Tig welded. DOM .120" is lighter than the standard ELW .134". Both can be mig welded. But DOM costs nearly the same as moly. I didn't use floor plates but plated the inside of the rocker. Then ran out riggers between the subframe connector and this plate. By doing it this way you can tack weld everything first. Then cut the out rigger tacks and drop the entire cage down to access the upper bars. Cutting the floor out around the outrigger and reinstalling the piece after is much easier.Brake line was used to make templates. Most tube were made long and then snuck up on the fit. Obviously a roll bar would just be less tubes. My sons car and my street car have roll bars built similar to this. The exception is the rear bars are up ar the roof as both have back seats.
Doug
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My 70' Challenger street car. Chrome moly 25.5 certified cage and chassis. All custom bent/made, all home built with the help of some buddies, still with stock firewall, floors and full interior. Can't sit back there but still has the rear seat. Two bars punch through rear seat to tie into upper spring perche's underneath .

100_1667 [640x480].jpg View attachment 736184 20150824_212638.jpg 20150504_074723_resized.jpg 20150424_205804_resized.jpg
 
I've installed a few S&W kits in A & B body cars.Fit is good.
If you order the Pro Street rear bars to fit high for rear seat room,you get the regular rear bars in the kit as well.
Gives you some extra tubing to work with.
 
just checked it out looks the same as s & W just a few bucks higher. thank you for your input will decide which way i'm going here in a couple weeks. want to tie in the sub frame connectors to roll bar. still need to install relocation kit.
I built mine out of Moly .083" (some bars can be as thin as .050") for weight savings. Moly must be Tig welded. DOM .120" is lighter than the standard ELW .134". Both can be mig welded. But DOM costs nearly the same as moly. I didn't use floor plates but plated the inside of the rocker. Then ran out riggers between the subframe connector and this plate. By doing it this way you can tack weld everything first. Then cut the out rigger tacks and drop the entire cage down to access the upper bars. Cutting the floor out around the outrigger and reinstalling the piece after is much easier.Brake line was used to make templates. Most tube were made long and then snuck up on the fit. Obviously a roll bar would just be less tubes. My sons car and my street car have roll bars built similar to this. The exception is the rear bars are up ar the roof as both have back seats.
Doug
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i don't have a tig welder guess i better look at some costs. the s and w kit looks good but i have a tube bender already. still lost which way to go but all you gots some great pics and want to thank you for taking the time to get some great pics. bearman
 
I've installed a few S&W kits in A & B body cars.Fit is good.
If you order the Pro Street rear bars to fit high for rear seat room,you get the regular rear bars in the kit as well.
Gives you some extra tubing to work with.
so ask for high tops to use rear seat. so the kits are good to work with nice to know
 
My 70' Challenger street car. Chrome moly 25.5 certified cage and chassis. All custom bent/made, all home built with the help of some buddies, still with stock firewall, floors and full interior. Can't sit back there but still has the rear seat. Two bars punch through rear seat to tie into upper spring perche's underneath .

View attachment 736183 View attachment 736184 View attachment 736185 View attachment 736187 View attachment 736188
sweet set up and hand made aslo great work thank you.
 
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