Sanding DTM primer

[Canadian1968]

Just keep it simple no need to over think this . The primer you have is perfect for everything you are using it for .

If the color of this primer is a good foundation for the base color of the car then just stick with it. Prime and finish sand 400-600 or whatever your base recommends . Finish sand means there are no burn threws or texture . Your surface is now evenly prepped with the correct grit and one consistant color. There will be no bleed threw and you can now lay down your base. This is my perfered method .

If this is not a good foundation for your base color ( example a dark blue, black ect. ) Then IF you choose you can purchase a black SEALER that will lay down nice and smooth and carry on with the wet on wet. The wet on wet provides a chemical adheasion not mechanical.

There is quite a bit of talent needed to lay down a nice even coat of sealer over an entire car IMO. That's why I suggest for someone who is new to the process and painting in general , to finish sand before adding spraying the base coat.

 

[zyzzyx]

GOD! That primer is expensive! I would use it as my first coat as designed, but then after that
you could use a 2k primer that costs far less because that is mostly going to be sanded away.
Evercoat makes a great product called G2 that comes with hardener and it blocks very nice.
Seals anything underneath too so there's no issues later. Car looks nice!

 

[Builderguy]

"The wet on wet provides a chemical adheasion not mechanical."

Yup Yup You are correct Canadian1968, my mind was thinking ahead and my fingers typed behind! LOL

 

[69 MBee]

I typically use epoxy over bare metal, polyester filler/bodywork/slicksand in which most of it sands off, 2k primer/surfacer then onto finish. Depending on the situation, I may choose to seal. Especially, if going over an existing finish.
I will wait a few weeks between polyester and 2k to allow for shrinking. Dry sand polyester. You can wet sand the 2k.

Wet on wet for daily drivers and collision work every time.

Would I do a wet on wet for a restoration, sure. A little more time commitment with one mobilization vs broken up in steps. A booth is not a necessity but it certainly helps the materials flash with the constant air exchange.