Setting up 489 ring and pinion - how to

AR67GTX

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Some may remember my earlier post on how much I hate Richmond gears. Ordered a new set of USGear R&P. I’m thinking I can’t do any worse than the previous mechanic on set up - bless his little heart. Main objective is to get a quiet set up. The rear was rebuilt a few years ago with all new bearings and sure grip. I’ll probably order a crush sleeve eliminator kit and shims, etc from Dr Diff. I know to check backlash, crush sleeve dimension, and pinion pre-load during disassembly, and the basics of where to start with the crush sleeve eliminator shimming. I’ve inspected the gear patterns on the 4 previous setups of the crappy Richmond’s before and done a fair amount of research on that and know enough to post some photos of patterns for a sanity check By those more knowledgeable in reading patterns than me. Someone earlier mentioned checking the sure grip case for runout on the ring gear mounting surface.

Any other good tips on set up or tool needs for this I should know? I have lots of experience pulling/installing the chunk. Any good go-by publications or threads on set up? I have a pretty large selection of tools but one thing I lack is a bearing splitter kit - any need for something like that? I have a big spanner to hold the yoke while torquing the pinion nut.

thanks
 

dvw

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Best advise? Pay someone. I do them. Its a time consuming procedure to get the pinion depth spot on. Usually takes 3-4 set-ups. Also time consuming to get the pinion preload correct. You need a press, fixture to hold the case solid, tooling to grab the bearings (especially the pinion bearing) to press on/off, tool to turn the adjusters, dial indicator, torque wrench, inch/pound dial torque wrench. I've found that pinion depth tools aren't very accurate. But if you go that route you'll need that tool as well.
Doug
 

AR67GTX

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That’s not out of the question. I have a supposedly good drive line shop about a mile away but no personal experience with them.
 

Vitamin_A12

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Best advise? Pay someone. I do them. Its a time consuming procedure to get the pinion depth spot on. Usually takes 3-4 set-ups. Also time consuming to get the pinion preload correct. You need a press, fixture to hold the case solid, tooling to grab the bearings (especially the pinion bearing) to press on/off, tool to turn the adjusters, dial indicator, torque wrench, inch/pound dial torque wrench. I've found that pinion depth tools aren't very accurate. But if you go that route you'll need that tool as well.
Doug
I've owned and operated a drive line shop just North of the Twin Cities for over 28 years. Though I have no connection with Doug...he is spot on! His comment regarding a pinion depth tool couldn't be more accurate. Unfortunately, it is the 'opinion' of an operator using a Gleason machine that may or may not be calibrated properly. The marked pinion depth can often times be .010-.015" off! Good luck in whatever you decide to do!
 

Cranky

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I have a setup tool that I've been using for over 30 years and have always had quiet gears. But I did learn something about bearing fit radii recently. China made stuff will bite you......
 

RemCharger

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Having a setup honed out pinion bearing sure helps. I always start with the previous shim and go from there.
 

steve340

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I do my own diffs and you do need to get/buy a bit of equipment. A spanners tool, pinion flange hold tool and a small press are very important.
Once you get set up it is OK.
 

Cranky

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I do my own diffs and you do need to get/buy a bit of equipment. A spanners tool, pinion flange hold tool and a small press are very important.
Once you get set up it is OK.
A bearing heater is nice to have but a hot plate works ok too.
 

steve340

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I modified an engine stand to hold the diff head and flip it over. Saw this on YouTube and it makes the job so much easier.
There are plenty of "professional" guys with videos on how to do a 9 inch Ford on You Tube and these were very helpful.
There was one in particular that was a specialist and he did a 3 part series on how to rebuild the 9 inch and it was really great info. Trawl around You Tube a bit before you start - it will really help.
The principals and set up tricks are definitely transferable to any rear end you may attempt.
 

Fran Blacker

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Bought one of these on Amazon for a Ford 9" had to make tabs for mounting 8.75. Works well $40, free shipping if your prime came from Jegs. 4 years ago I bought. Bolts to bench.
wid15.jpg
 

AR67GTX

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I went with DVW and Vitamin A12 who were the only initial respondents and discouraged a do-it- yourself project and took it to a drive line shop were it still is. He said he gets $500 for this usually but since it’s been previously rebuilt he would try not to hurt me. Figure I could have bought every thing I don’t have in the way of tools to do it myself for less, but that’s where I am.
 

AR67GTX

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Just picked my differential up with the US Gear set installed. They found a pinion bearing with a dented cage and the crush sleeve had been reused with a shim. But he said he doubted either was the cause of the noise. What surprised me was the pinion was 29 spline and I thought Richmond were 10 spline. But on the internet it looks like the Italian Richmond’s were 29 spline. So now I‘m not sure what the previous mechanic put in them. Maybe the later ones are 10 spline? These were put in about 5 yrs ago. They didn’t find any identifying marks on the ring pertaining to manufacturer. I could have saved myself the expense of a new yoke.
 
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