Greatly appreciated….btw your Sport Fury is absolutely beautiful.
So anybody try a wideband O2 on a crossrammed Hemi yet?
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Thank you. I bought her out of NJ, some years ago.
Ahh is this car burgundy with ghosted graphics? Weld Super lite wheels I think.
Negative. She was blue with a white top and magnum 500 wheels. Had a Poly 318 4 bbl, pushbutton auto. Here she is now:
Nice ride….a guy around here had the same car and sold it and always wondered where it went. Hell I may have even asked you before.
Thanks.
JDJG
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2 blader- 64 Sport Fury was instrumental in getting my crossram up and running. He is right it is a process! I would also be happy to share my set up if you need another reference point.
Ty sir….getting closer to doing it. Just reading and getting familiar with stuff. Just went over the valves a few times since getting the valve covers off is ummm an event.
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JDJG
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I spent quite a bit of time working my way on leaning out the idle circuits from super rich down to a reasonable level. At this point I will add my 02 sensor to make next level progress.
right now just ripped the interior out and the gauges. Adding a RETRO stereo, some sound deadener, removing the console, adjusting some door glass, and installing a DAKOTA digital dash that looks OEM. After I got in there I am considering a new dash harness. After all that then the O2’s will get done.. Have new seat belts too.
OK lookin to get started here with the O2 sensors. Was thinking of the Innovate 3891 DLG-1 Dual Lambda Oxygen kit or the Glowshift 7 Dual AFR kit. Also decided to but a billet metering block instead of drilling a tapping what I have. Yes, it costs more but easier for me. I ordered two non weld bungs for the headers…as I do not weld and do not trust many to do it. Opinions are welcome…..thx Scott
As long as there are no exhaust leaks your readings should be accurate enough to help you tune. The billet metering blocks will get you there as well. Keep us posted and ask if you need assistance. Good luck.
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Thanks…I will be back here I am sure with questions.
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I got the Innovate Motorsports DLG-1 dual wideband setup. It will datalog with an external device (I'm going to use my Samsung Note tablet IF I can, but I'll probably have to use my Microsoft Surface Pro tablet.) Software is free from Innovate and the data cable is included.
I actually really like the gauge that comes with the system, but I have 2 modules for my Dakota Digital RTX dash gauges and I should be able to display A/F ratio on the data screen of the DD dash.
Anyway, with the DLG-1 I can REALLY tell what's going on with the 3x2bbl setup, and it's a GREAT tuning tool!
I actually really like the gauge that comes with the system, but I have 2 modules for my Dakota Digital RTX dash gauges and I should be able to display A/F ratio on the data screen of the DD dash.
Anyway, with the DLG-1 I can REALLY tell what's going on with the 3x2bbl setup, and it's a GREAT tuning tool!
JDJG
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[
Hi 2blader:
I also went with the billet metering blocks and had good results. I suggest measuring your current idle restriction orifice in the stock metering blocks and also measure the orifices in the billet units so you know where you are starting from.
QUOTE="2blader, post: 912199023, member: 36500"]OK lookin to get started here with the O2 sensors. Was thinking of the Innovate 3891 DLG-1 Dual Lambda Oxygen kit or the Glowshift 7 Dual AFR kit. Also decided to but a billet metering block instead of drilling a tapping what I have. Yes, it costs more but easier for me. I ordered two non weld bungs for the headers…as I do not weld and do not trust many to do it. Opinions are welcome…..thx Scott[/QUOTE]
Hi 2blader:
I also went with the billet metering blocks and had good results. I suggest measuring your current idle restriction orifice in the stock metering blocks and also measure the orifices in the billet units so you know where you are starting from.
QUOTE="2blader, post: 912199023, member: 36500"]OK lookin to get started here with the O2 sensors. Was thinking of the Innovate 3891 DLG-1 Dual Lambda Oxygen kit or the Glowshift 7 Dual AFR kit. Also decided to but a billet metering block instead of drilling a tapping what I have. Yes, it costs more but easier for me. I ordered two non weld bungs for the headers…as I do not weld and do not trust many to do it. Opinions are welcome…..thx Scott[/QUOTE]
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I also have the jetable metering blocks in my outboard 2bbl carbs. I expect that will be extra handy when I try to tune the 6bbl to work its best on an open plenum single plane intake (ModMan) and a 572 stroker.
[/QUOTE]
TY sir. Just finding the spot to install the SENSORS now. Does this look like a good spot where the non weld bung is? Behind the header flange and right in front of the exhaust clamp? NOT drilling anything right now just laying it out and planning. Then will get the metering blocks and anything else I will need...jets, etc.
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I think that would be ideal, BUT the system manufacturer should have an installation recommendation, so get as close to that as possible.
You are really going to appreciate the value of this tuning tool.
TY sir. Just finding the spot to install the SENSORS now. Does this look like a good spot where the non weld bung is? Behind the header flange and right in front of the exhaust clamp? NOT drilling anything right now just laying it out and planning. Then will get the metering blocks and anything else I will need...jets, etc.
View attachment 1269724[/QUOTE]
that’s exactly where i installed the bungs on mine
View attachment 1269724[/QUOTE]
that’s exactly where i installed the bungs on mine
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My 2 (L,R) are installed between the header collectors and the Doug's cutouts, so basically where you have indicated.
I was told that open cutouts could affect the readings, but I haven't seen that yet.
I still have to suggest checking the manufacturer's recommended installation point.
Chances are that I will need larger diameter primary tube TTi headers (1⅞" now) for my 572 RB engine, and if the manufacturer of the O2 system says OK, I will get the collectors pre drilled and threaded by TTi as I will also have those ceramic coated and polished like the ones I have now. If they need to go farther back, then that is what I'll do.
I was told that open cutouts could affect the readings, but I haven't seen that yet.
I still have to suggest checking the manufacturer's recommended installation point.
Chances are that I will need larger diameter primary tube TTi headers (1⅞" now) for my 572 RB engine, and if the manufacturer of the O2 system says OK, I will get the collectors pre drilled and threaded by TTi as I will also have those ceramic coated and polished like the ones I have now. If they need to go farther back, then that is what I'll do.
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