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So first time with a high stall converter

I hate it. My charger doesn't start moving until 1600 RPM; that's with a 440, 727 and a 2-something 8.75 rear end. Converter is rated at 2500 rpm and I bought it because the converter I had before it was too tight and I had a severe hesitation problem because of it...
2.76 or a 2.94 gear? Both are highway gears and won't let a tight converter do much besides let the car mildly roll away from a standstill until the engine gets into it's power band but was it hesitating like an ill adjust carb will do? Press on the gas and the engine wants to die type of hesitation or just has no balls off of idle because of the highway gears and tight converter? I've ran plenty of cars with tight converters and highway gears at the track without hesitation but yeah, they didn't light up like a firecracker off the starting line.

I had a 66 727 rebuilt, and the only convertor I could find(with the 66 and earlier input spline) was a TCI 3500 stall, I had a built 440, with 3.91, and I noticed a lot of what you are describing, during light driving.
I wonder if the 2.71 rear end gear is exaggerating the issue?
As with my previous 727 transmission I had a 2300 stall, and didn't notice any of that.
Yup....don't know about todays newest converters but if they are still being made as they were a few years ago, then yup, a 2.71 gear is going to make that converter feel lazy until you get the rpm up.

That slipping feeling is what makes me hesitant about buying a higher stall converter. I'd read a good quality converter should drive as normal with no slipping feeling, until you stand on it, at which point it would quickly get you into the right rev range for maximum performance. What brand/model converter did you install?
Been several years since messing with performance converters but if you are talking about what I think you are, those kind of converters are pretty expensive. Just another reason I like sticks. The stall is adjustable with a pedal and shift points are whenever you feel like it lol
 
A loose and slippy converter will make the car a pisser to drive.
I had a crappy combination for awhile. At wide open throttle, it was great. The trouble is, I am not a drag racer and I don't spend that much time at WOT. I installed a better converter and the car was transformed.
How much stall was in it? Had a car with a 4500 in it and it wasn't too bad but the car wasn't heavy either plus it was geared pretty good but yup, the combo has to be right and a lot of people don't even think about it. They just go out and buy a 'big' converter then piss and moan about how bad it is. Not saying that's what you did but that's what a lot of people do.
 
The combo was as follows:
4000 lb 1970 Charger. 440/493 with a Lunati solid 260* @ .050 cam, 2" headers, 850 Demon carb. 9 3/4" converter with approx 3000 stall (As rated) 727 with 3.91 gears and a .78 Gear Vendors overdrive.
When cruising in OD at freeway speeds of 50-70 mph, light acceleration was met with a feeling of a burned out clutch in a manual trans application. Full throttle, it tightened up and took off nicely. It was a locally built unit. I pulled it and the GV unit and went with an 11" converter built by Ultimate Converter Concepts. After all of that, the Direct drive, tighter converter and 3.55 gears worked out quite well.
 
The combo was as follows:
4000 lb 1970 Charger. 440/493 with a Lunati solid 260* @ .050 cam, 2" headers, 850 Demon carb. 9 3/4" converter with approx 3000 stall (As rated) 727 with 3.91 gears and a .78 Gear Vendors overdrive.
When cruising in OD at freeway speeds of 50-70 mph, light acceleration was met with a feeling of a burned out clutch in a manual trans application. Full throttle, it tightened up and took off nicely. It was a locally built unit. I pulled it and the GV unit and went with an 11" converter built by Ultimate Converter Concepts. After all of that, the Direct drive, tighter converter and 3.55 gears worked out quite well.
Figuring your cruise speed in OD was pretty close to or below 3000 rpm....?
 
Yeah. Even though I was at about 2600 in OD at 60-65, it felt too loose. Out of OD and at WOT, it was fine.
It was probably just a matter of the wrong part for the intended usage.
Now I'm considering a Tremec 5 speed to get a good overdrive and a better driving experience.
 
I would steer clear of TCI converters. I've heard too many complaints about them. I've got an old MP 175k in my 73 RR. They were a good deal 20 years ago when you could get one for $150. Flashes to about 2800 with a mild 400. 2.76 gears. Drives fine. I have a Dynamic 9.5 in a 68 Sat. It flashes to 4500 behind a low comp 292 Comp cammed 440. 3.23 gears. Drives fine. Feels a bit slippy when accelerating up a hill into a headwind. Doesn't bother me, but I wouldn't want one much looser. It's all a matter of personal preference. I've got almost 20 years each on these converters with no issues. City and highway driven. The MP is just a shelf unit. The Dynamic was custom built for the car. Get a good cooler and you don't have to worry about cooking the fluid.
 
The higher the gear ratio the more load at low speed. Converter slips more. Want to fix it? Add some gear. I guess you guys wouldnt like to drive my street car, 5600 with 4.30s
Doug
 
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I would!!!


Edit: I'd like to drive your race car too, but I don't have a license. I'm a little like Malex, wanted to run nines to do it, then tens to avoid the license. Doing that now. I think I'm a lot more comfy at low tens than high eights.
 
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After forphorty's post about the Mopar Performance convertor, I remembered I have a new in the box Mopar Performance P/N P4876878ab convertor, I bought for my 1966 trans, before I found the input spline change.
So I looked it up, it comes back as a 2250-2350 stall speed.
A 1969 383 4Bbl is claimed to come with a 2350-2650 convertor, from Dodge,(the 383 2bbl is 1850-2100)
So in my case, would installing the Mopar Performance convertor be a down grade vs the stock one?
 
do you now have smaller converter or the large one?
I also ended up changing the drum and shafts on My 65 & 66 imperials
65 cable 66 mechanical 65 413 66 440 no real difference
both got Velvetouch brakes
I got the 66 from the dealer I was working for for $300
Was cherry with a fresh paint job with a Darlington stripe on it
Owner's wife kept scratching it up so he traded it for an A body wagon
 
Remember, the stall speed is not a 'hard" number. The more torque you put into it, the higher the stall speed. Highway gears and a loose converter are not a good combination, as others have said. Really, everyone should have 3.23's at minimum. :D
 
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