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So I called a couple of blasting guys yesterday

lxmodguy

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They wanted $1700-$2200 to blast my car. Now the $2200 place included dipping the car and priming it. Is this the going rates these days or are they just getting over on people? It been 20 years since I restored a car. I used to get em basted for a couple hundred bucks.
 
Have you asked Donny on here about blasting your car? He has a lot of info n blasting on here and I believe he is in Texas as well.
A few years back i had a complete 67 dart blasted inside and out I belive it cost me $1200.00 for the blasting part and If I am not mistaken another $600.00 to have it all put into epoxy primer after that.
Either way it is the best money I spent on the car.
Matt
 
yes thats about the going price ,if your not that far from Donny take it to him he`ll do you right.
 
more info

my 68 Roadrunner is going to media blast next week. the guy has quoted me about $800-900. he has not seen the car, so he said it might be 900 due to the undercoating.
i have removed everything. it is a bare shell. he also told me to get rid of all the rubber around the windows, as this is really time consuming to get it blasted off. also i have removed all seam sealers and sealer in the drip edge above the doors/windows.
he also told me he was cheaper as it is in East Tennessee. he said it would cost about $1200 out of the area, he has a friend in Atlanta and they do 1200-1500.
just info
thanks
Pat in Tennessee
 
Thanks for all the info guys. I PM'd Donny and we will see what he has to say. He's 5-6 hours south of me, but worth the trip to get it done right.
 
Pardon my intrusion, but isn't chemically dipping the best end result. I've read and heard that media can get stuck in crevices. Virtually impossible to remove all the media from them. And that the media traps and holds moisture. Causing future rust issues. Any comments on this?
 
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Pardon my intrusion, but isn't chemically dipping the best end result. I've ready and heard that media can get stuck in crevices. Virtually impossible to remove all the media from them. And that the media traps and holds moisture. Causing future rust issues. Any comments on this?

are you planning on leaving your car out side alot , or using it as a daily driver

other wise i dont thing your car will be wet that often .
 
I paid 2950 for my car..LOL
Couldnt imagine dropping that kind of money for stripping it but if your going to do it right.. starting with clean bare metal is essential
 
Pardon my intrusion, but isn't chemically dipping the best end result. I've ready and heard that media can get stuck in crevices. Virtually impossible to remove all the media from them. And that the media traps and holds moisture. Causing future rust issues. Any comments on this?

Unless all of the chemicals get netralized it can also stay in tight places and become corrosive causing rust as well. Each have pros and cons as everything does. I just like the results I got with media blasting.
Matt
 
"I paid 2950 for my car..LOL
Couldnt imagine dropping that kind of money for stripping it but if your going to do it right.. starting with clean bare metal is essential"

99ss , did u dip or blast your car? How did i turn out?


Wasn't stating that I was for or against media blasting, just curious as to what others know about the two different processes.
 
blasted the stripped car last week. $1350. They did a great job. included the dash.
 
Just remember you get what you pay for.
I only ever use recommendations in any field I need works done.
Don't expect a Rolls Royce for the price of a Cheby.
My2cents
 
Pardon my intrusion, but isn't chemically dipping the best end result. I've read and heard that media can get stuck in crevices. Virtually impossible to remove all the media from them. And that the media traps and holds moisture. Causing future rust issues. Any comments on this?

Everything has it's pros and cons. I've been told the major downfall of chemical stripping is that it removes body sealer in places you can't reach to replace it.
 
Thanks for the good words ya'll! Good points about media getting everywhere, I admit it freely, the stuff gets EVERYWHERE! You should see my dryer at the house, my wife says nothing these days, learned to wash any contact clothing at the shop first, then come home for second wash, but, 90% of the time I'm wearing a blast suit with shorts on underneath, shake the suit off, wash it, hang it up and good to go for the next time!

For me, Rockers are the absolute best Hide and Go Seek place for media to get into, and not want to come out! I use duct tape on the larger access holes, sheet metal screws for the smaller holes, then, blow, vacuum, shake, blow etc it all out, then, when transporting the vehicle more falls out on the floor pans, or, on the trailer deck if that hasn't blown away (this is why I always bring my shop vac when delivering).

Undercoating I usually scrape it off, makes it easier when media blasting the car. Seam sealers I poke at with my scraper, then, media blast what's left, but, the lower seam sealers usually is where issues arise as water collects and sits down low, the upper seam sealers usually are good to go.

I try to keep my pricing on the side of an upper middle spectrum, but provide excellent results in the top notch category. What's that saying, 'A bird in hand is better than two in the bush'? I look at each job as if it was my own, no time constraint(s) or boss beating me up to get it done, etc., that's where corners are cut, etc. Being a one-man shop has pros and cons, as most everything in life; trade offs, etc. I also angle to have everything that leaves my shop is ready for primer, the day it leaves its ready, no sanding, no scuffing is required, surface is about a 1500 grit profile; perfect for primer and a good base to work up from.
 
I was gonna say about $1500 my brother's resto shop charges that and the under coating is heated and scraped off as Donny said this is best way and the same with duct tape and if the shop doesn't do the blast right can warp the roof or hood or doors then lots of work to fix
 
Warping can (and has) occurred not from any friction heat generated, but, from slamming the metal with the size of a small fist the equivalent of 250 lbs at 60psi every minute. Hoods take the most attention to not fook them up. I don't even let my part time helper/blaster do hoods.
 
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