• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Solid or Roller Cam what would you use.

Roller vs Solid Cam


  • Total voters
    94

67coronetman

Well-Known Member
Local time
8:53 AM
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
1,655
Reaction score
346
Location
Blount Co
Hello mopar Family i have been asking questions and my answers have been split so what would you use and why... ?

I am building a big block 440 Stroker motor and the car will see 85% Street & 15 % Track so what would you choice for it and why..

1. Solid Mechanical Flat Tappet

2. Mechanical Roller.
 
Ok the reason i ask is i have been told over time the spring pressures needed for a roller cam can wear parts more that a solid cam.. Plus would not a solid cam be better all around for more street use just asking i really want to hear what you all have to say.
 
Ok the reason i ask is i have been told over time the spring pressures needed for a roller cam can wear parts more that a solid cam.. Plus would not a solid cam be better all around for more street use just asking i really want to hear what you all have to say.
high performance mechanical rollers beat up the needle bearings and do need periodic maintenance. i've always felt the two biggest draw backs to a roller on the street is having too aggressive of a profile (that needs a lot of spring and beats up the wheel's bearings) and the bronze gear wear. if you don't mind the maintenance and can deal with it go roller. the same, to a point, goes for a solid flat tappet. too aggressive and too much spring and there's issues. i guess pick your poison.
 
Depends on how much it will be street driven, cruising, idling around, etc.
Solid rollers are valve spring killers over a long term heat cycles

What heads flow #'s, combustion chambers & valve sizes
what pistons & what compression
what induction & what ignition
automatic with hi-stall speed or a 4 speed
what gears & what actual camshaft etc. etc. etc.
way too many unknown variables, to just say on or the other...

IMO;
The solid roller makes more power "usually" too, better camshaft designs,
they usually have a small base circle & longer lifters, much more spring pressures too
depends on what lifters are used too, some don't last very long, special fitted pushrods,
quality adj. rockers {they take allot of beating}, do it/chose wrong,
it can be a costly & frustrating mistake...
Old blocks,, that have allot of miles, sometimes have allot of lifter bore wear,
you may have to also bore & then bush the lifter bores,
you also may have to modify &/or restrict the oiling system too,
IMO it depends on what style & who's parts you ultimately decide on...
Not all rollers are created equal, including the lifters, rockers & cams...

The solid flat tappet mechanical camshaft, maybe more suitable
for your mostly 85% street driven BB Mopar stroker combo

Again it depends on how much it's driven, how much lift/duration,
not just a blanket pick between mechanical flat tappet or solid roller...
Both can be very good, both have their own attributes...

MAYBE; you may want to consider a hyd. roller too, they have come a long ways
Maybe a little more fitting for mostly 75% street driver, albeit but kind of expensive too,
it might be a better choice...
But the costs are as much as a solid roller & much more than a flat tappet too...
That part about $$$ spent & budget is your choice alone {I'd talk with your engine builder too}
what I think is reasonable & what others think, can be completely different...

I'm not dissing the solid roller, I use them from time to time, on a limited basis
just passing on some hopefully useful information...

Not 1 thing or 1 style fits all, your build details will dictate more,
I'd highly suggest call & talk honestly & realistically, what your expectation are
with a couple of reputable camshaft mfgr.'s, get more than one opinion...
Call them & tell them what your plans are & then ask them, be realistic,
not pie in the sky dream stuff...

I like solid rollers {voted for it} & I have run them on the street allot,
really aggressive camshaft styles, springs didn't last long &
had to check lash often to make sure nothing going on, in the valve-train
but it may not be ideal for your usage...
My cars/combos were more for all out power, not really a street cruiser,
more like 70% track use, occasional street & cruise night, or sustained hwy usage,
15-20 mile here & there, between runs, to & from the track etc.

I'd set a realistic goal, make an outline {stick to it} & spend the $$$ right/correctly the 1st time

Good luck, do your research, ask a few of the experts mfgr.'s too
 
If you keep the Roller cam to a reasonable profile you will have few issues. make sure the cam supplier has rollers that are pressure fed. Do not idle for extended periods and moderate spring pressures will allow rollers to last. I would recommend Crane for Lifters, Isky, Jesel and the likes. No free lunches in the lifter world. Hydraulics have come along way, but you may have clearance issues with height of lifters..
 
high performance mechanical rollers beat up the needle bearings and do need periodic maintenance. i've always felt the two biggest draw backs to a roller on the street is having too aggressive of a profile (that needs a lot of spring and beats up the wheel's bearings) and the bronze gear wear. if you don't mind the maintenance and can deal with it go roller. the same, to a point, goes for a solid flat tappet. too aggressive and too much spring and there's issues. i guess pick your poison.



This is right and its basically the reason I went with a solid flat tappet. I knew I wanted a fairly agressive cam and I dont wont to run all the spring pressure or worry about checking my roller lifters every few thousand miles. The biggest thing I hear about problems with a agressive solid roller is if you dont run enough spring pressure you could get valve float and just a bit can let the roller wheel bang on the cam. If it looses a roller needle and the lifter goes it can take an eng out. I know many run rollers on the street but I would have wanted to run one that uses alot of spring pressure. Thats the main reason I went solid flat tappet. And my car is a street car and gets alot of street miles driven on it. The only maintnace I do is to adjust my valves once a year. I have never had a lobe wipe on me so that did not scare me from using the solid flat tappet. Ron
 
My solution to running a roller cam in my street-strip disaster is:

1) Jones customer roller cam, $500

2) Isky Red Zone EZ-Roll bushed roller lifters, $1325

3) Manley titanium retainers and locks, $475

4) Isky RAD-9999 tool room valve springs. There is one grade of spring that is higher and we will try it if needed. $500

5) Trend 7/16" tapered push rods, $450 including two spares.

6) Cam button to set thrust, $50

6) 3-bolt timing gear set, $175

7) Melonite coated steel cam gear and hardened shaft from Hughes.

I think that is most of the recipe. Big power, endurance and cost all play together here. It's the slippery slope at it's finest.

That said lots of us have rocked the good old Herbert or Comp roller lifters and K-950 springs and got away with it by performing regular maintenance to find failed or failing parts. This time around we are going to try putting the money in front of our free time and see if we can get away with valve lash checks at oil change intervals instead of every time we lean on the car.
 
i went solid flat tappet & used the expensive Trend tool steel lifters & their push rods.
 
So what was your Cam Profile you went with.

11060088_864023356989708_573932288076523829_o.jpg


cam is 248 @ .050
 
67Coronetman, what is your target horsepower? Car ET at the track? And what is the rest of the combination? Heads? Engine size, intended rpm range? Weight ofcar? Gear ratio? Acceptable freeeay rpm? Transmission type? If you are looking for a lot of HP the flat tappet may not get you there reliably, on the other hand if your looking for a moderate HP level the flat tappet certainly will work great at a much lower cost.
 
11060088_864023356989708_573932288076523829_o.jpg


cam is 248 @ .050

CDR , how satisfied with the Howards performance? I am looking at 1 for or my 505 , bigger of course
Sorry for the hijack , i will go sft for daily driver reliability maybe give up a couple of hp
Tex
 
Roller is all around better for performance. My hold back with rollers are what happens when they fail.... motor full of needle bearings! My buddy just had one fail and it wiped out some pistons and wreaked havoc on the bores so since mine see's a lot of mileage I go with safety.
 
Track only, solid roller.

Street and strip, solid.

I had a large solid roller and all the good stuff mentioned above in a motor in a street/strip car. Spent a fortune on all the parts and still worried the crap out of me. I would never do it again on a street/strip motor.
 
CDR , how satisfied with the Howards performance? I am looking at 1 for or my 505 , bigger of course
Sorry for the hijack , i will go sft for daily driver reliability maybe give up a couple of hp
Tex
the people at Howards are great to deal with, they have been aroud for many years & they grind cams for a lot of people, so far it is working great, mine is a street car.
 
The broze gear wear is caused by putting a bronze gear on top of a bronze bushing and expecting it to live. Similar metals hate each other even in the presence of oil in that application. It's easily solved with a small, thin stainless shim from
McMaster-Carr. Proper valve spring on a reasonable cam lobe will stop the punishment dealt to roller lifter needle bearings. A lot of the horror stories you hear never involve finding the root cause or a solution. They just badmouth roller cams for street use and move on. I have five years of racing and street use on a set of comp 829-16 in a big hemi that turns 7000 regularly with no valvetrain issues. It idles at 900 rpm with bushed lifter bores and resticted oiling.
 
I failed a Comp 829 at 158 passes. Valves are lashed every 25 passes. 7100 rpm 275/800 seat pressure

Doug
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top