Sources for replacement 5.7L Hemi for my 2007 Ram 1500

[Kern Dog]

My 2007 Ram has 338,000 miles and will soon need another engine. I still like the truck very much so I intend to replace the engine and keep the truck going as long as I can. I do most of the work on my stuff so I'd be the one doing everything but the machine work.
I'd post this in the truck forum but the site traffic is so slow!
I have a few ways to go and have not decided on which one to do:
* Used, low mile engine from a wrecked truck.
* Rebuild my existing engine to stock specs.
* Rebuild any 5.7L engine using a 4.05 stroke crank and rotating assembly.
* Used 6.1.
I don't recall anyone here ever mentioning that they replaced the engine in their late model Truck or car. Anyone have any insight on this?

 

[DeltaV]

You have that many miles on the trans too?

 

[Kern Dog]

I have that many miles on everything!
Original engine, trans, axle....Starter, water pump, alternator, SERPENTINE BELT!

 

[Kern Dog]

I have replaced the EGR valve, thermostat, 2 transmission shift control modules, a rear axle pinion seal, several sets of spark plugs, brake rotors and lots of tires!

 

[TexasStroker]

I'd just clean up what you've got and re-build the original 5.7. If you can't have it down that long you could source one...I'd still take it to a machine shop to be inspected and freshened. FWIW, I think you can probably land a brand new long block for $5-6k so that can served as a guide for machine work and rebuild prices.

 

[moparmarks]

Myself I'd rebuild the 5.7 with a few mods. You made thus far without dropping a valve seat or munching a bearing so must be a good one

 

[Kern Dog]

I looked into a longer stroke rotating assembly, keeping a stock compression ratio but adding about 50 cubes...They run about $2300. My machinist has been skilled with classic Mopar stuff but I need to check with him regarding his experiences with the 3G Hemi engines. I'd think that a jump in cubes should add the same # in HP since this generation of 5.7L engines were 345 cubes and 345 HP.
I plan to keep the intake, exhaust and injectors.

 

[beanhead]

I've thought about this stuff too, but my '04 just clicked 100,000 miles and hopefully it's got plenty more life in it. I wonder (being in CA) how the smog rules and testing would impact doing anything that made the engine different than stock? Keep your eyes on the 'for sale' threads, there's been a few that have popped up..

 

[Kern Dog]

If I went with a NON stock setup, I would just dress it as a stock 5.7. I am not interested in how this engine will look, I just want more power and reasonable fuel mileage.
Seems to me that a long stroke and a stock 6.1L cam would produce about the same emissions as a 392 Challenger....Trucks usually have a higher threshold for emission testing.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

I am with Texas stroker... if your up the task I would take what you have apart. Then you will have a better idea as to how much money it's going to take for a rebuild. Buying a used engine with low miles you don't know if it's been overheated or abused and these new cars aren't fun to work on the first time ...let alone twice.
...I would guess it would be easier to stroke your 5.7 then to jump to a 6.1 of a newer year and battle the wiring changes. But...never looked into that swap. I give a hard look at stroking every engine we take apart now...Lol. lots of 5.7s are in salvage yards....but many are there for a reason.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Just curious Kern Dog...what engine problems are showing up past 300k. We only have one 5.7 in the family...we will probably be looking at what your considering but hopefully far far down the road...130k in a dodge magnum R/T. All our pickups have cummins.

 

[watermelon]

I vote for rebuilding to stock specs

maybe just add headers and louder exhaust. I’ve been looking at Gibson headers and race truck side exit for my truck for a long time now


watermelon

 

[JB400]

I'd consider a remanufactured engine and transmission. Scout around and get one with a warranty. I'd also replace both at the same time if possible, simply because it'd be easier in the long run.

 

[moparedtn]

'07 would be a MDS engine, correct? That would concern me more than anything else.
My '04 (165k miles on it so far) is not and I'm grateful of it; our '12 Charger (70k miles) IS, however.
Would you either rebuild or replace yours to keep MDS function, KD?
It is somewhat comforting to see that delicate, intricate sub-system can be durable at least...

 

[5.7 hemi]

I’d do this......rebuild the short block. Then get a set of Eagle heads (factory) new or used (go through them if used). Stock cam, updated lifters with the dual oiling holes for the rollers. Ditch the factory manifolds in favor of some shorty headers (smog legal). Find some 6.1 injectors (just for the better flowing heads and exhaust) and a hand held tuner. Smog it, then upload a tune and see what ya like.

The trans, new filters, oil (ATF+4) bigger trans pan, new or rebuilt converter, front and rear seals and Sonnax line pressure booster (goes in between the factory harness on the pass side rear most plug).

Maybe add a CAI intake if not having one already.

Then smile as ya fry the tires!

 

[moparedtn]

I’d do this......rebuild the short block. Then get a set of Eagle heads (factory) new or used (go through them if used). Stock cam, updated lifters with the dual oiling holes for the rollers. Ditch the factory manifolds in favor of some shorty headers (smog legal). Find some 6.1 injectors (just for the better flowing heads and exhaust) and a hand held tuner. Smog it, then upload a tune and see what ya like.

The trans, new filters, oil (ATF+4) bigger trans pan, new or rebuilt converter, front and rear seals and Sonnax line pressure booster (goes in between the factory harness on the pass side rear most plug).

Maybe add a CAI intake if not having one already.

Then smile as ya fry the tires!

Voice of experience, right there.
Do you utilize the MDS in your own rides?

 

[5.7 hemi]

Never have.

 

[Don selleck]

https://www.jasperengines.com/chrysler-57l-hemi-engine

 

[Hey-O]

https://www.jasperengines.com/chrysler-57l-hemi-engine

X2, once you move from that dry land, that body will start to rust at that age. By now, most that age start rusting around the rear wheel wells. Fixing is not cheap and new sides are easier than fixing big holes and replacing the bed with same year bed brings the problem full circle. My point is, after another 3 year/100,000 mile nationwide, transferable parts and labor warranty, you may be ready for a new truck. As you hate to hear........ Just saying...

 

[dsd1967]

I just went through this with my 05 ram over Christmas. Spun a rod bearing. I went full stock rebuild with a remanufactured crank and came in right at $1200 in parts. Did not replace the heads, just cleaned them up and put new exhaust valves in. One word of advice is to mark every electrical connector that comes off including every coil feed wire and the plug wires. Life is much easier putting everything back together. Also, pull the intake before trying to pull the engine. That allows it to come out from under the cowl.

I was impressed by the simplicity of the whole process.

If going with a replacement motor...be careful. There are subtle changes from car to truck and year to year. The crank trigger ring changed the number of teeth somewhere in your model year range and they will not interchange between cranks. You get the wrong number of teeth and your computer will not know what to do to fire the cylinders.

After doing a bunch of reading, I chose to keep the engine that the truck was born with. I have heard that earlier hemi's had valve seat issues, so the eagle heads may not be a bad thing to consider.

Mine was basic transportation that I needed to keep running for another year until I bought a new vehicle. Thus far it has worked out great.

As Hey-o states.....these things start to rot out bad once you get to this age and out of a dry climate. I figured adding $1200 back in to mine would pay off when I sold it because a 4x4 is always worth at least $2500 in Ohio regardless of body condition. Without a running engine, I would probably be lucky to get $700.