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Starter solenoid?

1969CoronetR/T

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Guys,
I went to take my R/T to work today and I noticed that no lights came on when I opened the door. This was not a surprise as every once in a while, say 1 out of every 20 start-ups this happens. I have to put the key in the 'on' position and use a nail to bridge the gap between the two nuts on the starter solenoid on the firewall. It will crank and usually start or at least the key (in the ignition) will then work to crank the engine to life. All is fine and off I go. Well, I tried the old nail trick without any success and even had my portable battery jumper hooked up to the battery in case it was weak. Nothing, no crank, no noise just dead. I may be calling a part a starter solenoid when in fact is a different part, but it has two nuts separated by maybe a half inch with wiring coming out of it and when both are bridged with a piece of metal the engine starts or cranks. I am guessing I need a new starter solenoid. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Mark
 
I would check the connection of the larger wire w/fusible link that runs into your bulkhead connector from the starter relay. Clean the male and female terminals at the bulkhead connector with a small file or terminal cleaner. Reassemble with some dielectric grease. Also check you have good secure connections at the starter relay. I would also Ohms test the power wire off the starter relay with the fusible link. Usually when your starter relay is going, crossing the terminals will still get the car started. If that fusible link in the main power wire coming to the bulkhead connector fails, you will not get any power and it's not gonna start.
 
What does the fusible link look like? I looked at my Super Bee at the shop (for comparison as my R/T is at home) and there are two wires that are under one both each and another wire off to the side of the relay. Would the car be totally dead with a bad starter relay? I have an extra at home that I can change out. Of course I forgot to take pictures of the relay this morning.
 
I'd clean and tighten the battery terminals first
 
The starter wire was burned up along with the alternator wire going into the firewall box. My uncles mechanic took about an hour to re-wire the bad connections.
 
What does the fusible link look like?

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The bulkhead connector had a burned out connection. Anyone know where I can get a bulkhead connector? I was looking at Evans Wiring for a new connector and wiring. Has anyone used his products before?
 
He no problem. Pretty easy to find used. Unfortunately that is a very common issue with these cars. Be sure to always keep the terminals clean and lubed up with some dielectric grease. If you start adding accessories and pulling more amps, you definitely want to look into an ammeter bypass or voltmeter conversion. Good luck.
 
I drill out the the contacts and run a wire through each one and use a bullet connectors on the inside... and rtv to seal up the holes a rainbow of 14 gauge and 8 gauge wire the wiper motor gets bullets connector fire wall side... the 1/4" female ends are the problem
 
I ordered a set of Indy cylinder heads, Comp camshaft (solid flat tappet) and new hardware. I will have the engine builder correct the wiring later this summer.
 
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