Starter works but nothing else (electrical - SuperBee 70 383)

[madhouse]

Hi
after re installing the battery I wanted to start the bee, but strangely only the starter motor seems to work. Nothing else has power. I didn't have enough time to dig deeper, but I was hoping it was a simple defect. Anything obvious I'm missing?
(most electrical and under the hood is stock)

tx

 

[Moparsmitty]

There's a red wire that comes off of the batt lug on the starter relay that goes to the bulkhead connector and thru to the back of the ammeter. This wire should have a fusible link in it that may be open (blown). I'd start there.

 

[nothingbutdarts]

Does the starter work with the ignition key or if you jump it at the starter relay?
I can't believe that if it will crank with the key that the fusable link mentioned above would be bad.
More information???

 

[RogerDodger]

Check the ground wire from the battery to radiator support or from the motor to the firewall.

 

[RustyRatRod]

The flux capacitor is burnt out.

 

[madhouse]

I did some checking this weekend. The fusible link seems a bit dodgy - the wire was too short and stretched. The contact in the bulkhead seems to have melted in the past so not sure what contact quality there was. I've ordered new Fusible link wire and will rewire that part + do some more testing.
The previous owner did replace the dash wiring and the bulkhead disconnect is new. I decided not to take any chance on the old engine harness (looks original but some botch fixes were done) and light harness front&back (looks original but worn - i'll keep it) and ordered new ones from yearOne. While I'm at it I'll also replace the original voltage limiter in the dash by an electronic regulator + do the AMP bypass. I'll keep the parts but rather have a safe(r) car then a burnt one

@nothingbutdarts : it was when using the key. The electric fuel pump also has no power so ...

@RogerDodger : I've seen that a 2nd ground wire is missing (only 1 from battery to engine at the moment) - ordered cable and will also get that sorted how it should.

tx
cm

 

[nothingbutdarts]

It is very strange that you have no power to anything in the car, but the starter will crank when you use the key! That would mean the ammeter is OK and the bulkhead is connecting (not necessarely in good shape though)
The fusable link would have to be OK as well, because it feeds everything inside. I'm sitting here scratching my head!!!

 

[Pops1967GTX]

Take a CLOSE look at the firewall connector. Unplug it and check it THOROUGHLY. This is where all Mopar electrical problems are. The firewall connection, dash voltage regulator & bad grounds .....Pull your bulkhead connectors, remove corrosion, clean up with emery cloth ...Use electrical system coating for corrosion.Replace the section that got overheated.
http://www.tidewatermoparclub.com/TECH/ign_faq6b.pdf

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

 

[MarPar]

Thanks for that article, Pops!

When it comes to ignition and electrical im not the sharpest rock, but that first article actually helped me understand it a lot better. im going to do some more research and actually give it a shot and hook up my electric choke to IGN1.


btw, this is the same electric choke that was spliced into the washer motor harness by the PO.:cussing: luckily i saw this wiring "masterpiece" and bought a new one before anything happened!

 

[madhouse]

Hi,
I cleaned the connectors, replaced the fusible link (was looking very dodgy indeed) and all is well again. AMP meter is OK and still working. I ordered new engine harness as some other connections from the previous owner look a bit worn.

 

[nothingbutdarts]

Great news!!

 

[MikeyT]

Damn you Ampmeter, you strike again!!!! How i Hate thy electrical achilles heel!..... Was that a littl too dramatic?

Mike