Starting issue

[Sonny]

About every other start Im having an issue. Been happening for a week or so now. Normally cranks well, but sometimes it sounds like a weak battery (it’s not) and cranks over but won’t fire until I let go of the key. Then instant start. Suggestions? I’m on power tour. Thanks!
Sonny

 

[furyus]

Ballast resistor?

 

[Don Frelier]

Or maybe bulkhead connector at the firewall, it's a different start wire that goes to one side of the ballast resistor (low resistance) while you are cranking.
Unplug the wire to the starter relay, test for voltage at the ballast resistor with key in start position.
If zero it's probably the bulkhead connector connection, you can try unplugging the bulkhead inspect terminals and clean.
Had this for a couple years on my charger, but it started so well in the run position I was able to keep driving it.

 

[Sonny]

I added a mopar hei distributor last year and it had a dinky ballast resistor. Something told me to throw the original one in my tool box. I’ll swap it out and see.
Thanks!

 

[Don Frelier]

You can test the ballast resistor itself with an Ohm Meter, just unplug one side.
Never heard of a Mopar HEI?

 

[Frank Mopar]

Check hei sensor gap

 

[Don Frelier]

Yes there is a Mopar HEI, mancini only shows them for a small block. Never knew...
But the part number has '440" in it so it could easily be confused.

 

[Frank Mopar]

Check reluctor gap on whatever you have

 

[Sonny]

You can test the ballast resistor itself with an Ohm Meter, just unplug one side.
Never heard of a Mopar HEI?

 

[Don Frelier]

What you have shown is a mopar electronic ignition, basically an amplifier for the magnetic pickup. HEI was originally a GM thing started in the Mid 70's I believe.
I think several companies offer one they usually have a bigger diameter cap. I just didn't know there was a mopar branded one, but apparently there is:

 

[65-440]

Battery terminals ? Maybe give them a quick cleaning

 

[Sonny]

Update. I:
-tightened the loose positive cable
-pressed all the bulkhead connectors
-replaced new dinky ballast with original ballast.
5 straight good starts. Not sure which worked but don’t care. Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[65-440]

Battery terminals are easily overlooked, done it myself ... either way, glad it's all working now !

 

[Sonny]

So...it’s not fixed. Gotten worse over the last 2 days. Seems to be worse after engine is hot. Starts ok in the morning. Thoughts?

 

[Don Frelier]

Sounds like the starter is it the old gear reduction?

 

[khryslerkid]

Too much timing.

Starter getting heat soaked.

 

[Ranger16]

I have the same ignitions as you do Sonny and the exact same starting symptom. I hesitate to call it a problem because it always starts. My bulkhead connectors are clean. I've checked the ignition switch more than once for the proper continuity from IGN1 and IGN2 and that seems good. Ballast resistor seems good as well. I have this haunting feeling that voltage is not getting to the ballast resistor from the ignition switch in the crank mode OR not getting from the bulkhead connector to the ballast resistor. I'm leaning towards #2. I may have to check it again. Will be watching this thread with great interest.

 

[Sonny]

I have the same ignitions as you do Sonny and the exact same starting symptom. I hesitate to call it a problem because it always starts. My bulkhead connectors are clean. I've checked the ignition switch more than once for the proper continuity from IGN1 and IGN2 and that seems good. Ballast resistor seems good as well. I have this haunting feeling that voltage is not getting to the ballast resistor from the ignition switch in the crank mode OR not getting from the bulkhead connector to the ballast resistor. I'm leaning towards #2. I may have to check it again. Will be watching this thread with great interest.

I feel the same way. Eventually starts but is annoying. I’ve replaced every electronic component including switches and harnesses. It stared fine for 6 months and just started. Sometimes the starter makes a knock as well.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Maybe your positive cable is partly broken/corroded internally. Starts ok cold, hot the higher draw won't power starter. Might just need to replace battery clamp.

 

[khryslerkid]

I feel the same way. Eventually starts but is annoying. I’ve replaced every electronic component including switches and harnesses. It stared fine for 6 months and just started. Sometimes the starter makes a knock as well.

Might be a bushing is worn making the gearing bind. I would recommend removing the starter and check it out. These mini starters (Dodge Dakota) are really super if you're still useing the original style. The one I'm useing on my 440 really impresses me in the power that it has. Much better than the factory starter.