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Steering box removal. It's never easy for me.

Billccm

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Started to tackle the steering box removal on my road runner today. Unfortunately it's the little things that causes the biggest aggravation and delays.
The roll pin was shattered before from someone who had tried to get it out, or when it was driven in it split. I knocked out a few pieces of roll pin, but it seemed some had jammed itself inside. Several hours of trying to knock out chips of roll pin. Probably should have tried a drill. I got the column loose and decided to call it a day out of frustration. I'll pull the steering box the day after Christmas.


Anyhow, I need a new roll pin, and want to rebuild the coupler. Any advice on what and where to buy would be appreciated.

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Okay looking like the Steer N Gear kit number 2112 would work, or should I spring for the 2113 kit with the body included?
 
Depends if your body is worn where the shoes ride. I would also add one of those wire clips that hold the cap on the coupler to your order.
 
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I use a small block push rod to drive out the roll pin. You can weld 2 together for reach.

Consider some Borgeson steering parts to update Cup and shoe Steering Adaptor
 
I have the cap clip as it was on the car when I bought it. The Steer N Gear rebuild kit has a rubber seal that is different ("upgraded").
I'll spring for the 2113 kit.
 
BTW Steer N Gear is where I'll send the box for a rebuild.
 
I use a small block push rod to drive out the roll pin. You can weld 2 together for reach.

Consider some Borgeson steering parts to update Cup and shoe Steering Adaptor
Just curious what is the size of the pushrod you use?

Mechanic friend stopped by tonight and looked at all of the little pieces of roll pin on the floor. He thinks someone drove a second smaller diameter pin in and for whatever reason that split? Anyhow I appreciate the advice guys.

Will order the 2113 coupler when I ship the box out. That way I'll be prepared when it arrives.
 
The roll pin is 5/16", stock pushrods are typically 5/16".... In theory you should be using something a tiny bit under 5/16.. I have used carb/airfilter studs when pulling steering boxes in wrecking yards... But I have an 18" length of 8mm hardened rod that I use at the shop...

BTW 5/16 = .312 8mm = .308 so .004 undersize...
 
We have a set of transfer punches.
Makes anything like this pretty easy.
 
I soaked mine overnight with blaster silicone spray. This punch set from Az in the link below has little ball and a circular ridge on the edge. Went right in and pushed it out with one hit of a hammer. Putting in the new roll pin I compressed it a little with thin vise grips, used the punch in the set below, and it went right in.

Amazon product ASIN B07RKPH6R9
 
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I have a broken air hammer chisel that has been machined to fit the coupler hole. One or two burps to the hammer throttle and out it comes. Way easier on the gear box.
 
I got one of those clips that go over the body, be forewarned, once they're on they are a bear to get off if you need to go in there again.
 
What size socket do I use here? Is it a specialty socket? Do I need a 12 point socket?

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Yes, its very special ... its a 12-point socket (or box wrench)
 
1/2" twelve point.... Looks like it's been leaking a long time...
 
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