Steering Box

[sunger]

I have a 68 road runner with manual steering which has more play than I would like. When I reach into the engine compartment and grab the steering bar just in front of the box, how much play should there be? Is there a way to check the box other than that?
I know the older manual cars had play, but I have close to 4 or 5 inches of free wheel.
I have been through the front end, adjusted, tightened, and aligned everything steering related. I do need to replace 1 tortion bar as the car drops about 1 inch on the left front. Could that be it? It is a hemi car if needed.
Anything is appreciated.
Steve

 

[Dako]

I'll take a stab...I'll go in the order you asked the questions. The ride height is independent of your steering play and can be fixed with adjustments (addressed below).

"...steering bar just in front of the box"... Are you talking forward of the box (closer to the front bumper)? Cause I thought everything attached aft of the steering box.
--If you are referring to the flex (rag) joint that connects the steering collumn shaft to the steering box input shaft, there should be a 'little' flex in it, but not a lot. There should be no rotational deflection...especially that you could detect just grabbing it with your hand.
--If you are referring to the pitman arm that connects on the underside (aft side of the box), there should be no play in it.

"... I do need to replace 1 tortion bar as the car drops about 1 inch on the left front"...
--Why not just adjust the left bar so the left side goes up?...
--Or the right side down?...
--Or left side up and right side down so it levels out?

"...Could that be it?"...
--It could be that the box is just worn...depending on how many miles are on the chassis...if wide tires and/ or off-set (wide) wheels have been ran for very many miles...if it has spent life on rough roads...etc.

"...I have been through the front end"...
--'Checking parts' or 'Replacing parts'? Again, depending on mileage and/ or driving conditions of its' previous life, control arm bushings, ball joints, inner/ outer tie rod ends, pitman arm and idler arm, even wheel bearings, could be worn. A little bit on each can add up to a noticable amount at the steering wheel.

Hope this helps.

 

[sunger]

Steering

Thanks for the help Dako. The steering arm that I can rotate is the shaft that comes from the fire wall to the steering box. I can grab that and twist it easily before it tightens up. I just can't think of anything else other than the steering box. I'm okay on engines, and I can slide a tranny out, but that's about it. Front ends, etc. are a bit beyond me.
Thanks again.

 

[Dako]

sunger,

The rotational deflection I was referring to was 'slop', or 'play' in the rag joint (coupler) itself. When you say it rotates 4-5 inches, are you measuring that by the rotation at the coupler or how far the steering wheel moves back an forth? I just went and checked my `66 Belvedere II. It has had the (power) steering box rebuilt by Firm Feel and I have put all new components in the front end. Everything has about 200 miles on it. Grabbing my rag joint I can rotate it about an inch or two...while looking at the steering wheel I see about 4 to 5 inches of movement. I realize yours is manual, but I wouldn't think there to be a big difference with mine sitting static.

Maybe someone using a manual box can provide further input?

 

[Dennis H]

Firm Feel Stage 1 cured my problem.

 

[wannadrag]

For about $18.00 you can rebuild the coupler.Start there 1st before you waste money on a new steering box.Next see if there is any adjustment left in the box.From your description it sounds like the steering coupler is wore out.

 

[sunger]

Thanks

Great thought, I'll try that first.
Steve

 

[1948 santa]

What's wrong with checking lube in steering box first then adjusting the play in the box pretty easy to do.Loosen lock nut turn slotted screw to take up free play.

 

[ws27]

What's wrong with checking lube in steering box first then adjusting the play in the box pretty easy to do.Loosen lock nut turn slotted screw to take up free play.

Be careful, there are actually two adjustments on the manual box. One is the sector shaft which is what you are referring to, but that just takes up the slop of the sector shaft. The other adjustment is the worm shaft and is supposed to be done first. It is done by loosening the big lock nut that is around the input or steering shaft. You then tighten the adjuster down to the proper specs. Which brings me to my main point, read the manual, it is in there, if you go by those specs, it will work. May not be perfect, but will be much better. If you have experience you can do it by feel, but going by the book is much safer. Power steering units on most of your cars only have the sector shaft adjustment, but the manual boxes have both. And both are covered in the manual.

 

[Scatransit]

As far as type of lubricant, I have found that the grease that is made for front-drive Constant Velocity (CV) joints works well. There really isn't a lot of info on steering box grease... 90w gear oil is too thin and wheel bearing grease is too thick. The CV joint stuff is right in the middle...Just my two cents.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If you can find the old DRUM bearing wheel bearing grease, it is the right consistancy. It's actually different than disc bearing grease, but most everybody used the disc grease across the board.