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Steering gear adjustment

Rpdrunner

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I know this has been discussed a lot here and on various forms. Ive got a 70 b-body power steering box that has probably 4” of play at the steering wheel from left to right before the box starts to move the pitman. It’s ridiculous driving it. Looking at the box where it connects to the coupler you can see it moves in and out maybe 1/8-1/4 while moving it left and right. I’m not sure if that is normal or not but I would guess not. The coupler, Column and suspension are fine. I’ve ruled out play, binding or wear in every other area. It’s obviously the box. I was going to pull it out and send it to firm feel but wondered if it was worth turning the worm gear adjustment in case somebody had messed with it in the past or backed it way off. Anyone had luck doing this with similar symptoms? I figured it’s worth a shot. I have the FSM and read the stories of it locking your steering if going too far on the adjustment. I’d post video but I don’t have it hosted anywhere for a link. Photo attached. Is the adjusting screw usually that far up above the lock nut on these? I just wondered if might have been backed out too far from someone in the past.

IMG_3475.jpeg
 
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Are you checking the play with the engine running?
 
It doesn’t seem to make a difference running or not. I’ve looked at it both ways. The travel in the gearbox is about the same either way. Off season here so I haven’t driven it in months. Looked at it today but not running and I’d say it’s more than 4” if you have you hand on top of the wheel and move to one side before movement at the pitman but you can see the coupler and gearbox at the connection moving immediately.
 
You can try to adjust it. Mark the threaded part and keep track of your adjustment. Crack it loose and tighten the screw 1/2 turn and try it. Keep doing that and see where it takes you. Knowing how far you went will allow you to go back to your starting point if nothing helps. I will just about bet you have play in the steering some where besides the gear box. But not knowing its history it could of been set wrong at some time.
 
I’ll check things out again this week.

Anybody know if the box will come out the bottom of a 70 b-body? I’ve seen mixed opinions on it, but looks like some have when disconnecting the center link. I don’t have headers. Just stock HP 440 manifolds. Looks like manifold, power steering and power steering cooler would be in the way coming out the top.
 
It doesn’t seem to make a difference running or not. I’ve looked at it both ways. The travel in the gearbox is about the same either way. Off season here so I haven’t driven it in months. Looked at it today but not running and I’d say it’s more than 4” if you have you hand on top of the wheel and move to one side before movement at the pitman but you can see the coupler and gearbox at the connection moving immediately.
The pictures below show the free range of travel I had in my 15,000 mile Firm Feel Stage 3 unit:
Borg 24.jpg
Borg 25.jpg


The stock unit can be adjusted but it is limited. I adjusted mine a few times over the years but it kept getting worse. The FF Stage 3 was their highest effort rebuild so the effort to turn was high, then that free play area was loose as if I were on wet ice. That is what annoyed me most, the loose feeling in the center of travel. Going through curvy roads, turning left then right meant passing through that sloppy center range. It was terrible.
This is symptomatic of the design. In clearer terms, you can say that it is a design flaw that most, if not all will have.
The option?

Borg 1.JPG


Oh yeah......The Borgeson steering box bolts in place of the stock unit, is 12 lbs lighter and has NO center slop.
It isn't cheap but it is superior to a rebuilt factory unit.
If you decide to go this route, you should consider buying from BAC, Bergman Auto Craft. He is a sponsor of this site and makes an excellent installation kit that you can do in one day.
Cheers.
 
I know this has been discussed a lot here and on various forms. Ive got a 70 b-body power steering box that has probably 4” of play at the steering wheel from left to right before the box starts to move the pitman. It’s ridiculous driving it. Looking at the box where it connects to the coupler you can see it moves in and out maybe 1/8-1/4 while moving it left and right. I’m not sure if that is normal or not but I would guess not. The coupler, Column and suspension are fine. I’ve ruled out play, binding or wear in every other area. It’s obviously the box. I was going to pull it out and send it to firm feel but wondered if it was worth turning the worm gear adjustment in case somebody had messed with it in the past or backed it way off. Anyone had luck doing this with similar symptoms? I figured it’s worth a shot. I have the FSM and read the stories of it locking your steering if going too far on the adjustment. I’d post video but I don’t have it hosted anywhere for a link. Photo attached. Is the adjusting screw usually that far up above the lock nut on these? I just wondered if might have been backed out too far from someone in the past.

View attachment 1611072
Have you checked the obvious for signs of wear yet?

The tie-rod ends, ball joints, pitman arm....and especially the idler arm. It's not always about the steering gear.
 
One good way to help pinpoint the slop is ....IF your car is a 1970 or later model, it will have a locking steering wheel.
You can lock the wheel and manually push and pull each front tire while an assistant looks at the steering linkage. The steering box will remain still for the most part while anything loose elsewhere may become easier to spot.
Good luck...Report your findings!
 
I just did a steering box R&R on my 1968 road runner. It's really nice to have two people. I dropped the drag link, removed the dipstick tube, pull the coupler and column back, and the box came out the bottom. It takes a few twist and turns to get it out and back in.

Steering box removal. It's never easy for me.
 
just like everything else on these cars, everyone has a different experience. I ran into a problem with the sector shaft adjustment ( the one you have pictured ) leaking. I had to pull that part of box apart and replace a few seals . Doing so really allows you to understand what is going on inside the steering box.

To put it as simply as possible that adjustment , is to take up slack between the teeth of two opposing gears. With regular wear and tear the teeth get worn over time , which cause the " slop" . The actual wear in the gears is very small maybe 1/16 but when that is transmitted threw the rest of the box it amplified considerably by the time it gets up to your actual steering wheel . Thats why it is recommended only to make 1/8 turns of that adjustment screw , it doesn't take much !!

I was able to set mine on the bench , which really allowed you to feel the " sweet" spot . You can feel the slop and then it started to bind , you want to get it right in the middle. Easy to do the bench .

There steering on my car right now is nice and tight 0 play ( with engine running ) . But still has the over powering feeling feel of alll factory mopars , you can steering it with one finger ! .

I do agree 4 " of play with the car running is pretty excessive, best to check everything out !
 
You can try to adjust it. Mark the threaded part and keep track of your adjustment. Crack it loose and tighten the screw 1/2 turn and try it. Keep doing that and see where it takes you. Knowing how far you went will allow you to go back to your starting point if nothing helps. I will just about bet you have play in the steering some where besides the gear box. But not knowing its history it could of been set wrong at some time.
Well you guys were right despite me doubting it. Ha! I spent more time with a helper checking it out more closely. Idler arm has a lot of play and the pitman connection at the center link has a bunch of play. The nut isn’t even that tight but the cotter pin is holding the nut in its present location. I am relieved to think that the steering box might be ok or at least what I consider the usual mopar PS feel after I replace these parts. While the car is running I did notice the play in the steering wheel is dramatically reduced than when the car is off and doesn’t take a whole lot to start turning the wheels. I thought I checked that already but apparently not. Duh! Easily fooled by decent looking bushings etc doubting there was a suspension issue and looking it over too quickly the fist time. Thanks guys!
 
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