Steering center link not parallel to the chassis?

[Paul_G]

This does not look right. The center link is higher at the idler arm. This car has a Borgeson steering box on it. Looks to me like something is a miss.

 

[dvw]

Most common fault I've found is the idler arm bracket being mounted incorrectly. You can remove the idler arm. Place a long bar through the holes. Heat the bracket and bend it until the center link is level. It's actually quite easy. Haven't heard of any issue with the new style box being in the wrong location.
Doug

 

[RT SE 440]

I wouldn't bend anything on a front end mother mopar had it right the first time. maybe try another type of idler arm something that steps down further maybe a later model it's a bit hit and miss once you start changing after market steering boxes or could be the other end maybe the pit-man arm on the steering box is too long or stepped down too much

 

[Paul_G]

The car has pretty bad "bump steer". Cant stay this way. I checked the numbers on the Pitman arm, it is a Proforged standard ratio arm. It is to be used with a standard ratio idler. Different Proforged part number for a fast ratio arm and they suggest the fast ratio idler part number to go with it. So I dont think the arms are wrong.

That idler bracket would be a bear to bend in one piece. I might cut the bottom half off, bend the top half out where it needs to be, then weld the bottom half back on.

 

[gkent]

If you have a digital level you could put it on the output shaft of the steering box and compare it to the output shaft on the idler arm.

Its worth noting that neither of those has a balljoint on the end so you would have had issues getting the center link on if one or the other was out of kilter. As well you would feel a bind in the steering OR you would see some unusual movement at either the steering box or the idler arm. when you turn the wheel.

 

[Ron H]

I had a similar problem, cocked center link, after rebuild and FFII install. When the car was driven for a good while, I'd hear a tone like a tuning fork when moving the wheel. Got the car up on my jacks and found the pitman zerk sheared off, marred T-bar, and link playing the violin on the header. Buddy with a repair shop put it on his lift and we looked over things. No evidence of damage or malalignment; but he said the pitman could be canted, get a new one we can put on. Got a new one from Mobileparts, got it on...all was fine. We figured the old pitman was worn enough to cause this. Clearance on my ride is tight with the headers.

 

[hunt2elk]

Most of the new reproduction pitman arms seem to be bent a bit different than the originals. I had the same problem as you. I ended up finding some older USA made pitman arms on Ebay, and that solved my issue.

 

[Black_Sheep]

Its worth noting that neither of those has a balljoint on the end so you would have had issues getting the center link on if one or the other was out of kilter. As well you would feel a bind in the steering OR you would see some unusual movement at either the steering box or the idler arm. when you turn the wheel.

Both the idler arm and pitman arm have a knuckle which the center link attaches to.

The DC front suspension bulletin has a whole section devoted to correcting steering linkage geometry. Corrective measures include shimming the steering gear and/or altering the idler arm attachment location on the k-member.

 

[Ron H]

Most of the new reproduction pitman arms seem to be bent a bit different than the originals. I had the same problem as you. I ended up finding some older USA made pitman arms on Ebay, and that solved my issue.

Yeah, was concerned about getting china stuff; mobileparts said he has a USA supplier so went with him. Have to wonder given Black-Sheep's post above, if there wasn't a shimming need, but glad to say new pitman got the results. So far so good anyway..

 

[Turbobus]

This does not look right. The center link is higher at the idler arm. This car has a Borgeson steering box on it. Looks to me like something is a miss.

View attachment 1492162

I had the same issue but with a 73 Charger . It was definitely the idler arm bracket for me, like dwv mentioned, pretty much did the same as he recommended. If I remember correctly mine was from a curb in the early 80’s

 

[ckessel]

30 or so years ago I met a gent selling some Mopar parts that my old boss from the speed shop let me know about. Went to check them out, talked to the guy and he tells me he used to work for King Richard Petty some time back. He told me how they would deal with bump steer and geometry issues which still give me a scare but, hey they worked and Richard still lives. They would get out the hot wrench with a rose bud, heat up the offending part[ Pittman arm, idler arm, ball joint etc], move it to give results they were after. I sure as hell am not going that extreme but push comes to shove you may be able to get similar in a press.