Steering Couple

[Mopar1969]

Hello,

I've removed the steering shaft rag box with the prospect of installing a new flaming river coupler for added clearance.
What I can't seem to do is push or hit out the round bar that runs through the steering shaft. It's almost like its a part of the shaft.
I talked to Flaming River and they said it should be removed or cut off. I don't want to cut if off, so I'm here to see if others have experienced this too and what they did?

I've attached a picture of what I'm talking about.

 

[Donny]

Cutting that will be most difficult as it's a case hardened pin. You're going to have to punch it out.

 

[hunt2elk]

I ended up taking mine out with a press. They fit pretty snug.

 

[snakeoil24]

Heat the shaft and knock pin out with Brass Punch.

 

[Mopar1969]

I ended up taking mine out with a press. They fit pretty snug.

Thanks guys for the options. As of now I think this may be my 1st option. Would you mind pasting a pic of the press you used to take it out? I'm assuming that the shaft was still in the engine bay as mine is. I went to Harbor Freight today to look for a press but wasn't sure what I was suppose to look for.

- - - Updated - - -

Heat the shaft and knock pin out with Brass Punch.

I have a heat gun that gets to about 1200 degrees F. How long should I apply the heat?
Also I noticed that when I hit the shaft it vibrates a lot. Anyway of stabilizing it so that most of the blow/force stays on the pin rather than gets dispersed through the shaft?

Thanks.

 

[bobtile]

try knocking it out from the other direction. Sometimes it only wants to go one way. otherwise, use a torch to heat the column up.

 

[Pops1967GTX]

this photo from FBBO member clemul.........

 

[khryslerkid]

I wonder if you had something along the lines of a tie rod end removal tool to press it out? You don't want to "mushroom" the end of the pin, by hammering on it.
What does the Flaming River coupler use to index the shaft if you have to remove the pin?

 

[Donny]

MOPAR, and all it's dealers still have this entire Kit as a P/N and it's available still! However, when you use the Cover, it's a One-Time use only, rather, if you pop it off, then attempt to reset it, it won't stay on properly. How do I know all this? Remember the 93 W250 Diesel I restored/rebuilt and spent a LOT of time on finishing it up last year at this time...It utilized this same kit.

 

[clemul]

If you are going to remove it you can put a socket over one side of pin that has a large enough opening to let pin pass through than place in vise jaws ( socket to one jaw, pin to other) and using vise push pin out... If necessary use drift for final removal..

 

[clemul]

Good info:

 

[Mopar1969]

I wonder if you had something along the lines of a tie rod end removal tool to press it out? You don't want to "mushroom" the end of the pin, by hammering on it.
What does the Flaming River coupler use to index the shaft if you have to remove the pin?

Could you tell me where you purchased that press? Thanks.

- - - Updated - - -

MOPAR, and all it's dealers still have this entire Kit as a P/N and it's available still! However, when you use the Cover, it's a One-Time use only, rather, if you pop it off, then attempt to reset it, it won't stay on properly. How do I know all this? Remember the 93 W250 Diesel I restored/rebuilt and spent a LOT of time on finishing it up last year at this time...It utilized this same kit.

Yeah that's why I don't want to go with the rag box.

 

[khryslerkid]

Could you tell me where you purchased that press? Thanks

You should be able to pick one up at your local parts store. (Advanced Auto ext.)

You pay for it, return when you're finished with it and they will give you a full refund.

 

[clemul]

If you are leaving column in car use a large quality c clamp and put socket which will allow pin to pass through on one side of pin and then one leg of c clamp on socket and other leg on other side of pin. Grease threads on clamp well and you can slide hollow tube over c clamp handle to give additional torque..

 

[Mopar1969]

If you are leaving column in car use a large quality c clamp and put socket which will allow pin to pass through on one side of pin and then one leg of c clamp on socket and other leg on other side of pin. Grease threads on clamp well and you can slide hollow tube over c clamp handle to give additional torque..

Genius! Sheer Genius! thanks Clemul.

 

[Mopar1969]

Ok I picked up a 3" C clamp from Harbor Freight. I felt the size is a good size for the task.

I came back home and placed a socket on the bottom of the clamp and began torquing away. However, each time after a few tight twists with a small breaker bar, the top mounting plate slides off the pin. I can't get it to stay completely over the pin to torque it down... ...it slowly makes its way to one side and then comes off. I tried putting a piece of square metal under it to give it more area but that didn't do any good either.
Do I need a bigger C clamp with a larger top plate to stay over the pin?

 

[clemul]

Harbor freight is no good. You will wipe out cheap metal threads and it is insufficient in diameter of threaded rod and handle and jaw pads. This method I have used in the past and it works. The largest that will fit is best.You need a good forged 10-12 inch or larger clamp with will withstand the force you need to apply. Look on ebay for a used Williams or similar brand of decent quality. The larger ones have thick handle you can apply a lot of force to without bending. With a large one you can even turn steering wheel to position pin so you can work from bottom if not enough room from top to hold in proper alignment and use pipe extension slipped over handle and slid all the way to threaded shank to give you maximum torque without bending handle. You can place other hand against threads up high by handle as you turn clamp and apply slight pressure in opposite direction clamp wants to. "walk". Keep everything squared in alignment. Metal on metal slips easily. Keep it aligned with pin and you can use little pieces of bike tube or similar scrap rubber on clamp jaws to prevent slippage.
You need one similar to this..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-J-H...010?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258fb6026a


Be care careful working with shaft so you don't break plastic collapse pins in shaft.

If you have a good air compressor the puller style kryslerkid posted should work well because you can put impact gun to it..before buying tools you don't have if it was mine I would mark column bolt locations,remove column following procedures above and take it to local shop and usually for a modest tip have them use arbor or hydraulic press. These pins are in pretty tight and you stand less of a chance of damaging shaft and you can do all work in one day without waiting for tools to ship..

 

[partmopar]

I took my complete steering setup out opened my vice up just far enough that the pin would slide thru then laid the shaft on the vice top and had someone hold the rest of it up I then smack that pin with a small sledge and finally got it moving. I was afraid of bending something trying to do this in the car. Mine was in there very tight also. New adapter works great now.
Good luck.

 

[khryslerkid]

Couldn't you just cut off the pin on both sides with a cut off wheel, then grind flush?
Or do you reuse this pin with the new coupler / adapter?

 

[383man]

I have rebuilt many of them over the years and put a new pin in the shaft. Just about everyone I did I had to use torches to heat the shaft and then knock it out with a punch or if you have a tool to presss it out you can use it but almost all I did would not move not even trying to press them until I heated the shaft with torches. Did you buy the Flaming River coupler ? Can you post a pic of the Flaming River coupler you bought if you did buy one ? Ron