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Steering Coupler, Borgeson and QA1

mpro69rr

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Hey Guys,

I have a 69 RR 383 with a QA1 k-member with borgeson steering box. I also bought the Bergman steering coupler that is supposed to fit the borgeson box. I went to install the steering column and could only get it to go this far (see picture). Is this far enough? Could the steering column be collapsed that's why it doesn't reach? It doesn't look like the column is collapsed but how do you tell? I'm thinking the QA1 k-member is maybe mounting the steering box back a little? Does anyone have pictures of their borgenson steering box using the bergman coupler? Thanks!

Coupler.jpeg
 
If the honeycomb cage on the column is bulged in the middle it may have been collapsed.
Check the plastic shear pins at the lower part of the column to see if they have sheared.
I hate to say this but back in the late 60's early 70's if we sold a car new or used and the customer wanted power steering we would just hammer the shaft,shear the pins and install the PS box.
 
If the honeycomb cage on the column is bulged in the middle it may have been collapsed.
Check the plastic shear pins at the lower part of the column to see if they have sheared.
I hate to say this but back in the late 60's early 70's if we sold a car new or used and the customer wanted power steering we would just hammer the shaft,shear the pins and install the PS box.

Its definitely not bulged in the middle. Where are the plastic share pins, I couldn't find anything. This is strange, I have a before picture and the steering box looks like it was in the same place and the coupler was almost all the way down.
 
It is not on far enough, as dads bee pointed out back the screw out....... Yes the shaft could be collapsed, no the honeycombed cage doesn't need to be bulged, the shaft is shorter, not the outer tube... The tube collapses when the steering wheel is pushed toward the firewall, the shaft collapses without effecting the tube..
 
Well it's not gonna go over the splines with the cross/lock bolt already in place....

Yes, I know that, I had it out when I as installing. There just isn't any more shaft to go down.
 
Well if you can't get it on far enough to put the cross bolt in the spline relief to lock it, it's not on far enough. Just a disaster waiting to happen...
Loosen off the three nuts holding the column in place under the dash and see if it'll slide forward the 3/4" that you need.
 
Well if you can't get it on far enough to put the cross bolt in the spline relief to lock it, it's not on far enough. Just a disaster waiting to happen...
Loosen off the three nuts holding the column in place under the dash and see if it'll slide forward the 3/4" that you need.

Tried that, the plate at the firewall hits. Should the column move forward even though the firewall plate is bolted?
 
The plate at the firewall is nothing but that, a plate with an O ring under it.. Nothing should stop the column from sliding in and out on it. Try loosening the O ring retainer flange and maybe it'll slide.
beerestoration2018 1719.JPG
 
The plate at the firewall is nothing but that, a plate with an O ring under it.. Nothing should stop the column from sliding in and out on it. Try loosening the O ring retainer flange and maybe it'll slide.
View attachment 1123153

Thanks dadsbee, I'll give that a try to tomorrow!
 
When I did mine, I put the coupler on first, without the locking screw. Tapped it in place. Lube helps. Then I installed the column. Then locking screw with locktite.
 
Thanks dadsbee, I'll give that a try to tomorrow!

Well I gave a quick try. I loosened the o ring flange bolts and the break away washer nuts. I noticed the break away washers were not all the way in the bracket and I couldn't move the bracket up to get them in, shouldn't I be able to move that up? I tried to move the steering column in towards the steering box and no luck, it came off the spline a little more, not the direction I wanted to go...lol I need to find out why the inside column is not moving in or out?
 
The inner shaft is two pieces, designed to collapse in an accident... it's supposed to be locked by injected plastic pins but they are known to fail... If they fail a minor bump on the end of the shaft while removing or installing can cause the shaft to collapse some... Try pulling the shaft out... If it's painted & pretty you'll want to wrap a rag around it & grab it with pliers.. If not painted & pretty just pliers... Either way grab it & try to use the pliers as a lever, possibly brace something against the firewall/brake booster/exhaust to act as a fulcrum so the pliers can act as a lever
 
The inner shaft is two pieces, designed to collapse in an accident... it's supposed to be locked by injected plastic pins but they are known to fail... If they fail a minor bump on the end of the shaft while removing or installing can cause the shaft to collapse some... Try pulling the shaft out... If it's painted & pretty you'll want to wrap a rag around it & grab it with pliers.. If not painted & pretty just pliers... Either way grab it & try to use the pliers as a lever, possibly brace something against the firewall/brake booster/exhaust to act as a fulcrum so the pliers can act as a lever

Alright guys this is where I stand, I was able to put vice grip on the column end and bang the shaft out just as 1 Wild R/T suggested (thanks 1 Wild R/T) getting my 3/4" missing shaft. Now I still have two problems:
1. I can't find where the share pins are? The column has an outer shaft which looks like a cage, then an inner shaft which I can turn by moving the round part after the steering wheel and I think the shaft is in this shaft. Do I have to take the whole thing apart to get to the share pins?

2. The break away washers on the column that attaches to the two bolts coming from the dash frame do not line up to the bolts? When I loosened the O ring flange it moved the firewall plate. I noticed that there were two tabs on the column that prevented the firewall plate from going up so I moved the plate to these tabs. Should I move the firewall plate back down? If I do that the my shaft will get shorter and I'm back to square one!

I really need your help on this guys! Thanks!
Column 1.jpeg


Column 2.jpeg
 
If the inner shaft actually got longer (and it looks like it did (picture 1) Then move the plate up to the two tabs... The washers slide both on the studs as well as in their slots...

The pins are sheared on 90% of the columns out on the road & it doesn't cause a problem.... FWIW Ford didn't even attempt to pin the shafts, they just used a spring clip... I wouldn't get to worried about it...

Install the column in the car the bump the shaft around to set the length

Set the shaft length so the gauge hole is 3/8" to the cover of the coupler as shown in picture 2

And make sure the roll pin is in place (picture 3)

Column 2.jpg


Screen Shot 2021-06-12 at 3.03.50 PM.png


Screen Shot 2021-06-13 at 6.44.11 AM.png
 
If the inner shaft actually got longer (and it looks like it did (picture 1) Then move the plate up to the two tabs... The washers slide both on the studs as well as in their slots...

The pins are sheared on 90% of the columns out on the road & it doesn't cause a problem.... FWIW Ford didn't even attempt to pin the shafts, they just used a spring clip... I wouldn't get to worried about it...

Install the column in the car the bump the shaft around to set the length

Set the shaft length so the gauge hole is 3/8" to the cover of the coupler as shown in picture 2

And make sure the roll pin is in place (picture 3)

View attachment 1123487

View attachment 1123489

View attachment 1123490

Thanks! Little worried about the share pins though. I was reading some posts here and the shaft actually backed out of the coupler. although I do have that wire going around the coupler so I don't it can back out. As far as the plastic washer, they don't even line up, I would have to slide them way to far out of where they slide in.
 
Thanks! Little worried about the share pins though. I was reading some posts here and the shaft actually backed out of the coupler. although I do have that wire going around the coupler so I don't it can back out. As far as the plastic washer, they don't even line up, I would have to slide them way to far out of where they slide in.

Never mind, I just test fitted the column and I can make it work with the plastic washers. I'm just a little worried about not having the share pins.
 
The roll pin in picture three above captures the shoes... They can't come out...
 
If your really that worried about it the whole column comes apart, & the correct fix requires a glue product thats no longer serviced... Most guys set the shaft length, drill holes, drive nylon pins through & melt the ends of the pin to lock it in place....
 
If your really that worried about it the whole column comes apart, & the correct fix requires a glue product thats no longer serviced... Most guys set the shaft length, drill holes, drive nylon pins through & melt the ends of the pin to lock it in place....

Thanks, if I have to take the column apart, I'll skip that, I have no idea how to do it. Eventually I'm going to go with the kit borgeson sells. I already have their steering box I might as well get their steering coupler, I think I can handle cutting the shaft. Appreciate all the help!
 
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