Still Not Charging

[Joel Talka]

Hello;

Another "not charging" situation... I've checked other posts but am still at a loss... Here is what I have...

1 - New rebuilt alternator, Isolated field, two spade connections, one side grounded the other side to field from regulator (green wire). Confirmed ground with an ohmmeter.

2 - New "electronic" regulator mounted to firewall, confirmed that case is grounded (ohmmeter to battery negative)

3 - Did an ohmmeter test on ammeter, does have continuity (but shows no activity when starting or running)

4 - With the car running I am getting 12.4V at the alternator output (battery) and ZERO volts at the field.

If I disconnect the battery when the car is running, it dies. When the car is running, everything works...lights, horn, turn signals, etc.. so current has got to be going through the ammeter.... Wiring is new and totally stock.

Appreciate any thoughts...

Joel

 

[twecomm]

Based on whet you say, does not sound like ammeter issue.. Alternator output wire should show whatever battery volts is, as it's essentially connected to battery positive thru Alt or ammeter. You state regulator body is well grounded and sounds like you alternator is wired properly.
You should see input voltage to regulator at input (Ign) terminal ,which should be very close to battery voltage. You should see a voltage of some amount at the. regulator output terminal (Fld) as well as the field terminal of battery. If NO field voltage that means no charging. If charging batt volts should be at about 13.5 or so volts. do a "full field" test. Disconnect the green field wire, start car with a volt meter connected to battery. At the alternator, field terminal, momentarily apply battery + volts to the field terminal on the alternator. You should see a big increase in batt volts if alt is working properly.

 

[Don Frelier]

Based on whet you say, does not sound like ammeter issue.. Alternator output wire should show whatever battery volts is, as it's essentially connected to battery positive thru Alt or ammeter. You state regulator body is well grounded and sounds like you alternator is wired properly.
You should see input voltage to regulator at input (Ign) terminal ,which should be very close to battery voltage. You should see a voltage of some amount at the. regulator output terminal (Fld) as well as the field terminal of battery. If NO field voltage that means no charging. If charging batt volts should be at about 13.5 or so volts. do a "full field" test. Disconnect the green field wire, start car with a volt meter connected to battery. At the alternator, field terminal, momentarily apply battery + volts to the field terminal on the alternator. You should see a big increase in batt volts if alt is working properly.

The above is all correct.

It sounds like the "electronic" version of the old single wire mechanical voltage regulator.
That part isn't clear.

If it is you can literally jump the two terminals and you'll have full field at the alternator.
If it charges (and I think it will) then your problem is the voltage regulator.
I would suggest getting the mid 70's - 80's style regulator, and plug and running the extra wire to the alternator and eliminate the grounded field wire.

 

[Joel Talka]

The above is all correct.

It sounds like the "electronic" version of the old single wire mechanical voltage regulator.
That part isn't clear.

If it is you can literally jump the two terminals and you'll have full field at the alternator.
If it charges (and I think it will) then your problem is the voltage regulator.
I would suggest getting the mid 70's - 80's style regulator, and plub and running the extra wire to the alternator and eliminate the grounded field wire.

You are correct, it is an "electronic" version of the old mechanical 2 wire regulator. I will give the "jump" a try as also suggested above.. but first I will recheck regulator input and output volts, key on, and double check the regulator grounding... We'll see what happens.. Hey, this is an education in itself!