strocker

[Stubby]

Hey everyone im on the fence if I should stroke my 440 build.
67 440 block 60 over.
any suggestions on heads stoker kits etc would be big help

 

[66Satellite47]

I'm on my 2nd stroker now. My Satellite came with a 500" 4.15 stroke, my current is 512 " 4.25 stroke. The increase in torque from each of these compared to my 3.75 stroke 440's is amazing, especially with a heavier car. My 512 has a 4.25 Eagle crank & 7.10 Eagle rods, 440 block.

 

[493 Mike]

I used a Ohio Crank 4.15 stroker kit in one of my 440s with good results. No problems at all with the kit. I used Edelbrock RPM heads, 10.6:1 CR ( blended valve pockets and back cut intake valve), complete Hughes solid cam and all valve train components, a aluminum 6 pack with modified Holleys, and Dougs headers. It made 452 HP at the tires (ex. cutouts open) after a dyno tune and turned a 11.65/114 in full street trim @ 3850#s before the dyno tune. I am pleased with my stroker motor!
Mike

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Go 4.250 stroke unless you already have parts. Ive built both 4.150 & 4.250 and I think the 4.250 kit is a better (easier) fit with chevy rods and really makes the most sense if starting from scratch. Pick a head first then find a kit that has a piston that will keep you pump gas friendly. Lots of kits out there. For a normal street/strip N/A type car I wouldn’t say there is much advantage one way or another. They are all up to the task of 600-700 hp range. My last stroker I built is a 400/511 source kit. Great kit. It’s more about attention to detail and good assembly with proper clearances than anything else. I’m using molnar parts in my hemi, first experience with them but the parts are nice.

My pump gas 511 pushes my 4000# (that’s with me in it) roadrunner to 10.90-11.0s through exhaust in full street trim. I love the thing, awesome street combo!

 

[451Mopar]

I look at the cost of the stroker kits, and subtract the costs of reconditioning and balance the stock crank, rods, replacement pistons, rings and bearings. Usually a stroker kit add less than $1,000 to the short block build.
The heads and valve train is where things can get expensive. Trick flow heads are pretty nice and can be ordered with different valve spring packages that should work with most street cams. This can save money compared to having to change out the valve spring package on heads that only come with one spring option. They also are CNC ported saving time and money that you might spend sending out other heads to be ported. The recommended rocker arms are expensive, not sure how to get around that issue?
As mentioned the 4.25" stroke kit with 2.20" rod bearing (GM) type rods fits easy with just a bit off the oil pickup tube boss, and you can still use the internal oil pickup tube.
For lower RPM, mild street (600 HP), the Trick Flow 240 head (standard intake port size) is nice, and the larger 270 head is good if you are looking for more higher RPM power 700+ HP.
I have used the 440 source stroker kits. You do need to check the fit of everything, and file fit the piston rings.

 

[moper]

If you're at .060 over you need to have the block sonic tested before you buy anything. It may be fine for the 3.75 stroke setup but it may not be for the 4"+.

 

[493 Mike]

Just go .030" OS on bore and you have enough material for a refreshing down the road. You won't miss the extra displacement and you will have stronger cylinder walls.
Mike

 

[66Satellite47]

I agree with 493, wish I had just gone .030 on mine. The few inches in the motor don't make any difference. Thicker walls do.

 

[5.7 hemi]

If that’s the logical way of thinking, use a 400 instead of a 440.