Stuck bolts

[Ron of Chicago]

I'm tearing down the 318 in my 66 Coronet. It's a 1984 engine. I'm trying to get the bolts out of the P/S and Alt brackets that go through the water pump. I know that they sometimes become a bit difficult because of the dissimilar metals.

Does anyone have a trick to getting them out without snapping them off? I haven't applied to much pressure yet.

Thanks for the help.
Ron

 

[Shorthorse]

Kroil. Good stuff

http://www.kanolabs.com/msn/

 

[440beep]

Try heating them up with a propane torch.

 

[Daves69]

Penetrant, a little hammer tapping, some more penetrant, and some heat.
When all else fails, I've heard some folks have drilled one or more 1/16" holes down to the bolt shaft along the outside to of the housing boss' to get penetrating oil further in. This, I think, is last resort territory. Good luck.

 

[super-bee_ski]

X2 with 440Beep!

Heat with Propane torch!

The BEST method, period.

 

[66Satellite_in_NC]

yup heat and some Kroil, and work them lose/tight and see if you can finally persuade them out. If they do snap, hopefully they won't snap off flush with the block. Good luck!

 

[super-bee_ski]

Kroil is so darn expensive
"We" use it here at the F-22 CTF (Combined Test Facility)

 

[Mocajava]

Old welding trick, heat with torch and let cool down some BEFORE spraying the penetrant to it. If you shoot it when still red hot you can start a fire as well as you can change the bolt metalurgy and can make them brittle which causes them to break/shear off when you finally put some muscle into it. For rounded heads or sheared bolts, we used to take a piece of scrap metal, drill a hole in one end that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the head/bolt that you are trying to remove. Place the hole over the head/stud and plug weld it, several passes....putting a lot of heat into it. Use a ball peen (rounded end) to peen as it is cooling, squirt penetrant in and let cool. The heat penetrates the length of the bolt, expanding the threads quickly and hopefully breaks the rust hold as it contracts/cools. The tapping while penetrant is applied jars the threads and allows the penetrants to do their thing. Continue tapping as you try to back bolt out.

 

[sebring+]

Heat, shock, penetrant and working back and forth.

 

[Ron of Chicago]

Thanks for all the replies. I'm soaking them with 50/50 mix of Trans fluid and Acetone. I know it has worked on other rusted-in bolts I have had.

I thought it was not a good idea to heat the Aluminum housing of the timing chain cover and water pump!

If all else fails, I will break them off and then have to pull the pump and Timing cover and then I can weld a nut on the end of the broken stud and remove it. I am pretty sure the bolt will come out easy enough once I'm there. I figured it was the process that happens when a steel bolt corrodes itself to the Aluminum housing. I will consider the drilling the hole to get more penetration to the bolt.

Thanks again for the ideas, all.
Ron

 

[bm02tj]

Anti seize is your friend
When you put it back together
I always think of the person that will take apart next it might be me

 

[gdrill]

Anti seize is your friend
When you put it back together
I always think of the person that will take apart next it might be me

I had a driller once that this was one of his favorite sayings!