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Stuck pistons

Charg68

Well-Known Member
Local time
10:20 PM
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
52
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Location
Alberta,Canada
Hey,uh,I am doing a black with white v/t 68 charger H-code 383-4v that has a seized engine.I pulled the engine and trans friday night and pulled the trans off.I have read before that 68's didn't have vin plate serial #'s on engine and trans.I cleaned the rear of the engine under the oil pressure sending unit and it has the last eight of the vin stamped on the engine.Did the trans come with vins stamped and where do you look?I took the engine apart yesterday and it has two pistons stuck in the block.These two cylinders are so corroded that when I pulled the head off the drivers side and looked at it,one valve was missing.I looked in the cylinder and the head of the valve was laying on the piston.It had corroded right off where it went into the guide.What are everbody's ideas to get the pistons out.I really want to save this block after finding the numbers on it.The body was done years ago and somebody put 69 fenders on it.When they put lower 1/4's on it they didn't bother putting the rear marker lights back in.
 
Soak it in diesel, couple days too a week. Get a peice of wood or log that fits the cylinder.
Smack it with a big hammer.
After youve removed the crank of course.
 
The easy and cheap way to remove the pistons is:

Strip the block down
Take the block to a machine shop and have it hot tanked.
You will spend less time this way and the cost will be less.
 
There is some stuff called Break Free.....or something like that....available at the parts store. It's in a white/black/yellow can and says "As seen on TV". Works better than anything else I've ever used.

but super STINKS

guess that's the price you have to pay
 
There is some stuff called Break Free.....or something like that....available at the parts store. It's in a white/black/yellow can and says "As seen on TV". Works better than anything else I've ever used.

but super STINKS

guess that's the price you have to pay



PB Blaster.
 
There are so many different ways to free up those pistons, Everybodys idea is good,, You can also put marvel mystery oil in and let it sit for a couple three days, then the wood and hammer thing. Good luck!!
 
Kroil is probably the best stuff out there as far as penetrating oil goes. Another thing that supposed to work well is a 50/50 mix of acetone and trans fluid. Since you are saving the block and not the piston you can drill a bunch of holes in the top and break it out with a BFH and chisel. No mercy!
 
Kroil is probably the best stuff out there as far as penetrating oil goes. Another thing that supposed to work well is a 50/50 mix of acetone and trans fluid. Since you are saving the block and not the piston you can drill a bunch of holes in the top and break it out with a BFH and chisel. No mercy!

I,m with you acetone and trans fluid
 
Freed pistons

Thanks for the ideas.Didn't find any of those products up here so left them full of diesel for two days each.BFH and piece of wood and punched them down,then honed the rust off the cylinder walls.Flipped the block over on the stand and then they came out with a smaller hammer and wood.One cylinder will need a sleeve,but standard pistons will go back in.
 
My 440 was stuck..I used this stuff called EVAPORUST it eats rust and doesn't pit or eat metal at all.It only cost $10.00 a bottle and works over night.Just fill the cylinder and leave the oil pan on to catch the drips.Then push the piston out from the inside out because hitting it out side in can cause the top of the piston to mushroom and really give you a hard time.I used EVAPORUST on every nut,bolt and small part for my resto I love it!!! Check out the before and after pic's they post..No bull it does what they show.

http://www.evaporust.com/gallery.html
 
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