Stupid Torsion Bar removal question

[GearAddict]

I bought a new set of bars and will be putting them in this weekend....2 Questions

1. Do you remove them by pushing them out towards the rear of the vehicle through the crossmember? or push them back only to get them out of the LCA and then pull forward towards the front of the vehicle to get them out of the crossmember?

2. Is it best to just cut off the rubber seals for removal? (I suppose it depends on the answer to question 1).

Thanks

 

[kb67mopar]

The come out the back of the cross member. I just left the seals on and slid the bars back through them.

 

[GearAddict]

The come out the back of the cross member. I just left the seals on and slid the bars back through them.

Thanks, that's what I thought but the FSM was a little unclear.

 

[furyus]

First, take off your upper control arm bumpers. They will keep the tension on the t bars if you don't.
Then remove the rear clips that hold the t bars in the trans cross member. Back off all tension on the t bar adjusters. Pull bars out through the trans cross member. If they won't come out, I would loosen the lower control arm nut, and the strut rod nut . pry back on the lower control arm, and it should push the t bar out the back.

 

[Roger63]

First, take off your upper control arm bumpers. They will keep the tension on the t bars if you don't.
Then remove the rear clips that hold the t bars in the trans cross member. Back off all tension on the t bar adjusters. Pull bars out through the trans cross member. If they won't come out, I would loosen the lower control arm nut, and the strut rod nut . pry back on the lower control arm, and it should push the t bar out the back.

Great answer

 

[mmissile]

I back off the tension bolts, cut them in half with a sawzall, and throw all the old stuff away. Never had to fight them, that way.

 

[CoronetDarter]

First, take off your upper control arm bumpers. They will keep the tension on the t bars if you don't.
Then remove the rear clips that hold the t bars in the trans cross member. Back off all tension on the t bar adjusters. Pull bars out through the trans cross member. If they won't come out, I would loosen the lower control arm nut, and the strut rod nut . pry back on the lower control arm, and it should push the t bar out the back.

I just took my T bars out a couple weekends ago and did everything Furyus said, and it worked to a point. The T bars still didn't slide back enough to grab them from the cross member. You may need a T bar tool - essentially some type of clamp that you can hammer on to drive the T bar out of the LCA. A lot of FBBO members made their own; not having the fab skills I purchased mine through Mancini Racing. Once the tool was clamped on it only took a couple of whacks with a BFH and out they came. Since you're replacing the old ones, vice grips might also do the trick, but then you can't reuse the bars.

When re-installing, don't forget to add HD grease to the LCA socket and rear cross member. Good Luck.

 

[JamieZ]

Best of luck.
I pulled mine out as part of the complete front end bushing swap/disc brake conversion. My original plan was to keep the existing torsion bars. The driver's side did not cooperate. I put a few different tools on them and could not get it out. So I cut it, figuring I could drive it out. Nope. I ended up having to torch it to get it loose. Passenger side I just cut right off the bat. But then it slid out with no effort.

If you are replacing them, I would just cut them.

 

[GearAddict]

Thanks guys, I have a torsion bar removal tool and had mine out enough to do a disc brake conversion, but I didn't ever pull them all the way out of the crossmember.

 

[KnoGood]

Not sure how I got mine out but I did ... First and foremost, loosen the tensioners to remove any pre-load on the bars (any pre-load is no good). I then removed the rear clips (easy peasy) and tried to bang the bars loose by any means. When that didn't work I loosened the LCA pivot shaft nuts about 5 turns or 3/8", added a bit of liquid wrench (always a good practice I found). I then banged the LCA towards the front of the car with the new extra play and broke the bars from their 44 year old position! You can bang it back and forth to really get the bar free from the LCA). The bar was now loose and could be pushed through the rear cross-member with relative ease (along with 44 yr old grease that is). No damage to boots or bars (replace them anyways).
The strut rods also need to be loosened to afford the back to front play.