Sub frame repair/ 74 Satellite

[Charlied]

Want to replace subframe bushing (4) unfortunately driver side rear location has severe rot ( see attached photos). Being searching for a replacement sleeve that would allow cutting out rotted area and weld in new piece, to no avail.This seems to a common problem. Any suggestions where to find, or how best to address, I’m stuck.
Alternative would be to find someone who could fabricate and install, made a few locals with no luck.
Any help much appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Timmayy]

Don't know if this helps but I saw it on Ebay.
1971-74 RH & LH CHARGER/B-BODY REAR FRAME RAIL SET - CLASSIC REPRO | eBay

 

[pnora]

Find a better k-frame with no rust. That one may be full of other surprises.

 

[Timmayy]

Maybe it can be fabbed from that?

 

[67SniperHockey]

I would chisel off all that undercoating to see what else you find on the frame, my guess if you will find more soft spots......to me this looks beyond a patch job and I would find a new K-Frame that was suggested earlier.

 

[Cranky]

Want to replace subframe bushing (4) unfortunately driver side rear location has severe rot ( see attached photos). Being searching for a replacement sleeve that would allow cutting out rotted area and weld in new piece, to no avail.This seems to a common problem. Any suggestions where to find, or how best to address, I’m stuck.
Alternative would be to find someone who could fabricate and install, made a few locals with no luck.
Any help much appreciated.
Thanks

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I would do what was suggested in post #5.....see what else that might be hiding in that sub frame.

 

[YY1]

If that just the K frame- replace it.

If the actual frame that holds the K frame bolt attachment points is rusted (and that does happen), then that's a different ball game.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Contact moparmark here for frame sections

 

[RussT Plymouths]

Been there, done that. It's a rather simple repair if the "K" is removed from the car. No way would I try to weld it while in the car, too many obstacles to guarantee a good repair, let alone the fire hazard from possible oil inside the "K" and all the undercoat present. And there is already rust present, have you tried to loosen any of the four ISO bolts that mount the "K" in the car?

If you can stand a few weeks of down time, you could pull your "K" and maybe one of the local shops would repair it for you. When I did mine, the car was the wife's daily so I only had the weekend for downtime. I rebuilt a donor "K", (to save time), and swapped it out over the weekend after scheduling a first thing Monday morning alignment.

And I did it myself with tall jack stands and a floor jack, but I was a few decades younger then. Ah, good times..... Things one does when they're poor....

 

[Charlied]

Don't know if this helps but I saw it on Ebay.
1971-74 RH & LH CHARGER/B-BODY REAR FRAME RAIL SET - CLASSIC REPRO | eBay

Thanks,but these are frame rail replacement. I need subframe ( k frame ) repair kit.

 

[Charlied]

Find a better k-frame with no rust. That one may be full of other surprises.

 

[Charlied]

Have to think seriously about this,budget tight. I’m a low grade shade tree mechanic so I can’t do it my self. Thinking frame probably $400-500 , pull the motor and reinstall would think $1500. Kinda stuck.

Thanks

 

[Charlied]

I would chisel off all that undercoating to see what else you find on the frame, my guess if you will find more soft spots......to me this looks beyond a patch job and I would find a new K-Frame that was suggested earlier.

Will get scraping and see what I find. Budget tight so repair IF possible first choice. Don’t have the skill level to do it . To do it right would have to pull motor kinda stuck.

 

[Charlied]

Been there, done that. It's a rather simple repair if the "K" is removed from the car. No way would I try to weld it while in the car, too many obstacles to guarantee a good repair, let alone the fire hazard from possible oil inside the "K" and all the undercoat present. And there is already rust present, have you tried to loosen any of the four ISO bolts that mount the "K" in the car?

If you can stand a few weeks of down time, you could pull your "K" and maybe one of the local shops would repair it for you. When I did mine, the car was the wife's daily so I only had the weekend for downtime. I rebuilt a donor "K", (to save time), and swapped it out over the weekend after scheduling a first thing Monday morning alignment.

And I did it myself with tall jack stands and a floor jack, but I was a few decades younger then. Ah, good times..... Things one does when they're poor....

 

[Charlied]

Sage advice, I not as young and daring as I was, ( turned 75 last week). And this repair way above my skill level. So between a new sub frame, pulling motor and reinstall thinking $2k minimum . And challenge is finding some one to do it right. Budget tight .
Didn’t check other bolts, but no rust or holes visible. Culprit was when undercoated way back when drain hole plugged so water collected in it. FYI I’m the original owner restored back in 85 was my every day car till then. Big block (400) 4 spd car.

 

[67SniperHockey]

I would - at the very least, clean off all the undercoating then reassess from there. Then atleast you know what you are working with.

If all you needed was a few patches welded in here and there for structural integrity I would come do it for free - but I'm in Minnesota and you're in Georgia - ha. You may be able to get some metal, cut them to size for the patches and post a wanted ad for someone to come weld them in if the K frame isn't completely swiss cheese to get ya back on the road safely.

 

[RussT Plymouths]

So between a new sub frame, pulling motor and reinstall thinking $2k minimum . And challenge is finding some one to do it right. Budget tight .

I agree finding a shop willing to do a competent and complete repair will be extremely difficult. This is why I asked about downtime, fixing your "K" may save some cost but will take more wait time for shop scheduling.

I didn't pull my engine, after jacking it up out of the engine mounts I hung it by the exhaust manifolds from a 4x4 post stretched across the inner fenders. The 4x4 was blocked up so it didn't touch the tops of the fenders. I felt having it raised would make the reinstall easier. You'll also need to either remove the fan or the shroud for clearance to raise the engine.

I also left the steering gear in the car hung from the 4x4. I did pull the steering column back and disconnect it from the gear. You could keep the gear on the "K" but it adds weight. I hung the brake calipers out of the way under the fenders. Everything else is just disassembly to enable the "K" to drop. If I could keep it attached to the car I did.