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Suggestions for stock clutch

toolmanmike-where is this spring exactly? That im supposed to remove?
Up under the drivers side dash. It is connected to the pedal linkage. It is a pretty hefty spring.
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I just checked under dash, there is no spring on the clutch linkage
 
You might also contact the clutch company that made your unit and explain what you're experiencing. Maybe they can help you out.
 
Is everyone in agreement that

I haven’t a clue what clutch is in there, but seller said this clutch was installed….
“ It was a cenerforce dual friction diaphragm clutch nothing too radical but I think they are stiff for clamping force.”

This Centerforce dual friction diaphragm clutch is not the reason for a stiff pedal?
 
A dual friction clutch means it has organic lining on one side and metallic on the other.

Completely different than a dual disk clutch which has two discs. Thy have lower spring pressure per clamping force because of twice the friction surface. That might be an option for you but might require a bunch of custom parts.

You probably have the lowest pedal effort option, other than the dual disc mentioned above, or an iron disc slipper setup that is definitely not for just cruising around.
 
A dual friction clutch means it has organic lining on one side and metallic on the other.

Completely different than a dual disk clutch which has two discs. Thy have lower spring pressure per clamping force because of twice the friction surface. That might be an option for you but might require a bunch of custom parts.

You probably have the lowest pedal effort option, other than the dual disc mentioned above, or an iron disc slipper setup that is definitely not for just cruising around.
So you’re saying a dual disc clutch would be easier on the leg/pedal?
Suggestions where to get?
 
Should i have mentioned that upon a very short test drive, in 1st gear or reverse, this thing shutters like crazy!!!!
Hence my searching for an easier on the leg pressure stock clutch recommendations
 
I've had a CenterForce dual friction in my Challenger for over 20 years, same clutch. Over center spring has been removed. It's my wife's car. Pressure is light. She has zero issue driving it. Skinny 70 year old lady. It holds well enough to run mid 12s . Smooth as glass.
Doug
 
Got this from SST. Happy. Easy pressure and friendly launch. Not Hydraulic, but lets discuss it further to complicate it.

F575F4B9-AD9A-49D1-ABAA-1EB227241B85.png
 
Should i have mentioned that upon a very short test drive, in 1st gear or reverse, this thing shutters like crazy!!!!
Hence my searching for an easier on the leg pressure stock clutch recommendations
There could be a few issues contributing to this. Hot spots on the flywheel from slippage or not being surfaced when clutch was installed[ gotta do this when replacing the clutch unit], pilot bearing/bushing bad, oil leak from engine or trans contaminating the clutch. Some people like to use the clutch, partially engaged, to hold them on an incline. Good way to kill a clutch. Bad disc lining material or material thats not forgiving. Pressure plate has insufficient pressure for the task or has hot spots too. Some clutch disc materials are not forgiving to slipping, can't dilly dally around when rowing through the gears. On the actual disc, the steel portion, between the linings, is it wavy or flat between the linings when not pressed flat by the pressure plate? This is called Marcel. Some discs have it, some don't. No Marcel is that it's flat. With is that its wavy. With gives a bit of cushioning as its being compressed by the disc, which makes for smoother operation. Without Marcel, you can't fart around when pulling shifts and slip the clutch. Also does the disc hub have springs or is it solid? Higher horsepower/torque output requires more pressure plate loading which in turn can mean more leg input. The double disc units help alleviate this as you now have way more surface area and can get less plate load making it easier on your leg. Since you're not 100% sure of what was put in, it may be wise to drop it out to see what you truly have. Also, contact one of the clutch companies and get their recommendation for your combo of car/engine etc and your physical issues.
Driveline Components Company[ originator of McLeod], Hays/Centerforce, Ram, McLeod are companies to get info/product from.
 
So you’re saying a dual disc clutch would be easier on the leg/pedal?
Suggestions where to get?
Possibly, but there may be a better way to get there. Hydraulic linkage would be the obvious choice as mentioned above.

Ram has dual disc units but I don’t know if they offer a bolt in solution for big block mopar. They are typically for high hp motors which it sounds like you have. They would be the ones to ask.
 
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I've had a CenterForce dual friction in my Challenger for over 20 years, same clutch. Over center spring has been removed. It's my wife's car. Pressure is light. She has zero issue driving it. Skinny 70 year old lady. It holds well enough to run mid 12s . Smooth as glass.
Doug
I agree with Doug here. I had a Centerforce diaphragm clutch but with the 6 paddle metallic disk. It was a very nice clutch and easy pedal pressure.

A 493 is going to be making some power, but it might not be that hard on the clutch if you’re not running slicks. The diaphragm clutches have a pretty high clamp load, so it might work with your combo.

An organic disc would be more forgiving and smoother engagement. Might be ok as long as you’re not going to slip it too much.

And the over center spring reduces pedal effort. But with a diaphragm clutch it’s removed for two reasons: the most important is that it can stick the pedal to the floor when shifting. The secondary reason is that the pedal effort is so low the assist from the spring is not needed.
There could be a few issues contributing to this. Hot spots on the flywheel from slippage or not being surfaced when clutch was installed[ gotta do this when replacing the clutch unit], pilot bearing/bushing bad, oil leak from engine or trans contaminating the clutch. Some people like to use the clutch, partially engaged, to hold them on an incline. Good way to kill a clutch. Bad disc lining material or material thats not forgiving. Pressure plate has insufficient pressure for the task or has hot spots too. Some clutch disc materials are not forgiving to slipping, can't dilly dally around when rowing through the gears. On the actual disc, the steel portion, between the linings, is it wavy or flat between the linings when not pressed flat by the pressure plate? This is called Marcel. Some discs have it, some don't. No Marcel is that it's flat. With is that its wavy. With gives a bit of cushioning as its being compressed by the disc, which makes for smoother operation. Without Marcel, you can't fart around when pulling shifts and slip the clutch. Also does the disc hub have springs or is it solid? Higher horsepower/torque output requires more pressure plate loading which in turn can mean more leg input. The double disc units help alleviate this as you now have way more surface area and can get less plate load making it easier on your leg. Since you're not 100% sure of what was put in, it may be wise to drop it out to see what you truly have. Also, contact one of the clutch companies and get their recommendation for your combo of car/engine etc and your physical issues.
Driveline Components Company[ originator of McLeod], Hays/Centerforce, Ram, McLeod are companies to get info/product from.
Everything he says. A clutch is a system and it all needs to work together.

It sounds like you may have something out of order since the pedal effort is so high and the clutch is chattering. As someone else said you should find out what is in there now.
 
I agree with Doug here. I had a Centerforce diaphragm clutch but with the 6 paddle metallic disk. It was a very nice clutch and easy pedal pressure.

A 493 is going to be making some power, but it might not be that hard on the clutch if you’re not running slicks. The diaphragm clutches have a pretty high clamp load, so it might work with your combo.

An organic disc would be more forgiving and smoother engagement. Might be ok as long as you’re not going to slip it too much.

And the over center spring reduces pedal effort. But with a diaphragm clutch it’s removed for two reasons: the most important is that it can stick the pedal to the floor when shifting. The secondary reason is that the pedal effort is so low the assist from the spring is not needed.

Everything he says. A clutch is a system and it all needs to work together.

It sounds like you may have something out of order since the pedal effort is so high and the clutch is chattering. As someone else said you should find out what is in there now.
As mentioned in post 26, this is the clutch i was told thats in the car:
“It was a centerforce dual friction diaphragm clutch”—-USED (told very little use)
Additionally, the flywheel is brand new from 440 source…
It is my belief matching a new flywheel to a used clutch is a no-no. So id like to start over, but with an “easy on the leg” clutch
 
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