Suggestions on Bodywork
- Thread starter JimKueneman
- Start date
You will be glad you did it Jim, take some good pics of how the pan lays as far as meeting with the tail pan and the side pans , also the application of the seam sealer if its still in there, It should or prob is really blobbed on around the wheel house area LOL,
Trunk pan is not to bad , spot welds and seam sealer, not like your trying to finish off a qt panel.
Besides now you will get a 1st class look see at your rear frame rails from the inside.
Trunk pan is not to bad , spot welds and seam sealer, not like your trying to finish off a qt panel.
Besides now you will get a 1st class look see at your rear frame rails from the inside.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
You will be glad you did it Jim, take some good pics of how the pan lays as far as meeting with the tail pan and the side pans , also the application of the seam sealer if its still in there, It should or prob is really blobbed on around the wheel house area LOL,
Trunk pan is not to bad , spot welds and seam sealer, not like your trying to finish off a qt panel.
Besides now you will get a 1st class look see at your rear frame rails from the inside.
Sorry not sure what you are saying here about pictures. Are these for me or you? The rest of the trunk looks like new. A lot of the seam sealer was starting to fail and there was surface rust under it but I have stripped any seam sealer that was loose or had separated from the metal and sanded the surface rust out The underside of the trunk pan, where the gas tank mounts, you would never guess the inside looks like that. It is still a nice grey color of the factory dip process. If you look really close you can see the pin holes I mentioned. I plan on sandblasting this area as well to remove all traces of rust as well.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
BTW is your '67 the Dark Red (71552) for 1967? Seems similar to the 1968 Burgundy. Still debating with the wife on the color. She hates white, I see potential in it though. I have her narrowed down to Bronze, Dark Turquoise, Burgundy (my preference of order).
Jim
Jim
Tonybolton
Active Member
Keep up the hard work,
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
I see you have the grinder fired back up, looks better.
My 67 is a 2007/08 ford color {cinnamon pearl} I call it brown, lol.
We had shot a box side at the shop on a new 08 back then, I was trying to decide on a color and seen that sprayed out. Figured what the heck.
My 67 is a 2007/08 ford color {cinnamon pearl} I call it brown, lol.
We had shot a box side at the shop on a new 08 back then, I was trying to decide on a color and seen that sprayed out. Figured what the heck.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
If your talking about the fine particles lying around that was my cheapo sandblaster making a mess trying to just sandblast out the rear window corners to eliminate all traces of surface rust. Aircraft stripper and a wirebrush is way cleaner but does not remove the rust
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Crap put the welder away to soon..... Looks like a window leak on the passengers side and to many wet shoes keeping the carpet wet on the drivers floorboard
Tonybolton
Active Member
I'm sure your trying to cut cost, but i just had a 69 charger blasted underneath with a dustless media blaster, unbelievable results. 30mins and it was spotless. Just a thought.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Yea I looked into that he has about a 3 month waiting list
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Just for fun what did they charge you? I was quoted up to $2200 for top and bottom with the car on a rotissorie. That seemed very steep to me.
Tonybolton
Active Member
I had the outside blasted first, then replaced the roof and quarters, then the rotisserie for underneath. I had a friend to give a great deal on the media work, but he charges for how many bags of media he uses. $1000.00 would get the body blasted, price goes up from there. That's seems steep to me too, he could blast your whole car in 2hrs.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Oh yea FORWARD progress for a change! The SPI epoxy primer goes on like glass. I like it!
Tonybolton
Active Member
epoxy is 100% waterproof, great moisture barrier,,,,,, money + work = nice car. I will try to post pictures of my project too, nice job bud,,,,,,,,
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
The SPI epoxy is also a rust converter. Really nice stuff ( really expensive stuff
)Jim
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Here is the results of my hacking at filler. I used 3M (Marcel) Platinum with the SPI epoxy. Both sand amazingly well. As I was looking at photos of 68's it became clear the body line that runs the middle of the quarter panel seems to be tricky. Very few photos I see have a crisp line the length of the panel. Most vanish above the wheels then reappear. A few were crisp. I decided to test my skills and build these lines up with the filler. I think it came out reasonable. The rest of the work should be able to be finished with high build primer and blocking a few times.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
And after the second application of Epoxy Primer
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spray the panel with paint and body cleaner and lookat the 1/4 with a florescent light and you will see exactly what it should look like after cl
ear is sprayed
ear is sprayed
Tonybolton
Active Member
Hey Guys, looking at the filler work, you probbaly sanded off to much filler, i can see the blount shapes of the filler, this generally takes alot of primer to fill. keep up the hard work. Here is a pic of my sons 69 Charger, this is when I cut out the rust.
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