Suggestions on Bodywork

[JimKueneman]

Yea I know I sanded a bit too much. I think I can block it with the SPI high build sanding primer. Plan on shooting 2 coats and blocking it out to see. If it sucks will likely skim the areas with glaze.

That is a serious labor of love. I have learned I really dislike the metal work of a restoration. A totally rust free car for me next time

 

[Tonybolton]

I hear you brother, lots of labor of love, forsure

 

[JimKueneman]

Two coats of SPI high build primer, 3M dry guide coat and a few new block shapes for the body lines and here we are on the right side. It may be hard to tell in a photo but does this need glaze or keep hitting it with high build (maybe hit just the low spots with a few coat then coat the entire panel?). The SPI notes said use a 1.8 to 2.4 for the high build. I have a 1.8 and it _barely_ can squirt that stuff out It is some thick stuff.

The white spots are where I have hit the epoxy primer and stopped.

 

[JimKueneman]

Here is the left side ready to block… after my arms get some strength back… tomorrow…

 

[1967coronet]

Here is the left side ready to block… after my arms get some strength back… tomorrow…

View attachment 340377

LOL, Looking pretty good, any lows that will not block down you know you have to refill.
your going to hate me, but you know you have to do this all again, re prime then go over complete car with a bright light one sq. foot at a time looking for pin holes, air holes in the filler , skim any you locate also. dry guide coat again and reblock car.
Also many times a low is just the correct level between to high spots, a good straight edge will tell a lot also.

 

[JimKueneman]

LOL, Looking pretty good, any lows that will not block down you know you have to refill.
your going to hate me, but you know you have to do this all again, re prime then go over complete car with a bright light one sq. foot at a time looking for pin holes, air holes in the filler , skim any you locate also. dry guide coat again and reblock car.
Also many times a low is just the correct level between to high spots, a good straight edge will tell a lot also.

I have resigned myself to at least 2 times and based on a few YouTube videos 4 times is in the cards from respected show car painters. They said "the panels will tell you". Now I have some time behind the blocks I get it and I am not fighting ther blocks anymore, just letting them do the work while I watch and study what they are telling me. I hope I am getting it and the effort will pay off

 

[JimKueneman]

If you ignore the orange peal these panels are looking pretty straight by looking at the reflections! Two base coats of epoxy primer, filler where needed and initial blocking on the primer (SPI Epoxy sands nicely) and one top coat of SPI Epoxy.


Jim

 

[JimKueneman]

What caused this?

 

[Tonybolton]

Hey Jim, that might have been pin holes that were being stubborn to fill in, it should block out. I use a 2.0 tip for primer, you can drill out that fluid tip, becarefull not to drill the orifice to big.

 

[Photon440]

Reminds me of when I get an insect that leaves a track through fresh paint.

 

[JimKueneman]

Spent the evening trying to prove Tony wrong and I did not sand too much on the left rear quarter…. 2 hours later and 4 skim coats of filler and blocking later I have it where I think the primer will handle the rest… I failed…..

 

[Tonybolton]

LOL, I tell my students, " your one more coat away". They get tired of it, after they have sanded for two months.

 

[JimKueneman]

LOL, I tell my students, " your one more coat away". They get tired of it, after they have sanded for two months.

Your one more coat away from perfection.... and always will be... ;)

 

[JimKueneman]

I am getting _very_very_very_ close….. I am going to hit the whole thing with one more coat of SPI epoxy (since the hood is still bare metal), then 2 coat of normal build primer and sand with 220 this time. I should be at the point of "I think its done" after that so per 1967coronet's suggestion a final shot of SPI epoxy and a wet sand with 400 and it may be ready for paint!

 

[JimKueneman]

It is looking really good. Two coat of SPI Epoxy Primer to cover up the sand throughs and it is time for a few coat of high build and careful blocking to get it ready for the last coat and 400 wet!

Thanks everyone for their help, this is turning out better than I imagined for having no idea what I am doing!

 

[JimKueneman]

Hey Jim, that might have been pin holes that were being stubborn to fill in, it should block out. I use a 2.0 tip for primer, you can drill out that fluid tip, becarefull not to drill the orifice to big.

If figured out what this was. It was water in my air supply and likely a big old droplet of water made it through the gun right there. I am fixed that problem and todays spraying went perfectly (other than the damn bug that crawled through the wet paint for about 6 inches before I saw it…)

Jim

 

[1967coronet]

Looking good Jim.

 

[Tonybolton]

nice job bud, there will always be a drop of water or a bug, or something stupid to get in the paint. keep up the hard work, all you like is finishing,lol

 

[JimKueneman]

Is it worth buying the really long block for these old cars? Does it just make it faster to get it done and the 18" can do as good a job but just takes longer?

Jim

 

[1967coronet]

The 18 is fine, you get much more and you end up putting uneven pressure on it unless you got gorilla sized mitts.
You got that car looking very good, congrats and a big thumbs up for sticking in there.