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Supposedly a 70 RT track pack car, any input on errors or value?

Missing fender tag worries me. They can be repoped.
Check all numbers on the sheetmetal to be right also!
Real 2nd gen Charger non ac 4 speed cars are rare.
Trust me, gt it too bare metal and it will have more rust and issues than you think more likely.
I say if real car worth the stupid $ they get now days.
I have had a bunch of 2 nd gen Chargers back in the 90s. I wanted a 4 speed non AC one so I built one, redid the firewall and etc. It was a 69.
 
Missing fender tag worries me. They can be repoped.
Check all numbers on the sheetmetal to be right also!
Real 2nd gen Charger non ac 4 speed cars are rare.
Trust me, gt it too bare metal and it will have more rust and issues than you think more likely.
I say if real car worth the stupid $ they get now days.
I have had a bunch of 2 nd gen Chargers back in the 90s. I wanted a 4 speed non AC one so I built one, redid the firewall and etc. It was a 69.

guys at 25k firm. Has broadcast sheet and numbers match. Should I be worried about the wreck damage to the door and jam? Also, the a pillar rust makes me think the cowl needs to come off as the lead is lifting?
 
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guys at 25k firm. Has broadcast sheet and numbers match. Should I be worried about the wreck damage to the door and jam? Also, the a pillar rust makes me think the cowl needs to come off as the lead is lifting?

So he found the build sheet, and has the number motor and tranny? I think it would definitely be worth the asking price now you have documentation of the options, you can always have a fender tag reproduced now with a build sheet.
 
So he found the build sheet, and has the number motor and tranny? I think it would definitely be worth the asking price now you have documentation of the options, you can always have a fender tag reproduced now with a build sheet.


Motor was long gone. Numbers matching otherwise
 
My $0.02:

If the numbers on the body match (in other words, nobody did a VIN swap on it), it is mostly complete (and I'm talking small parts here) and you really want a Charger, then this might be the one. Chargers are not cheap, so if you want one, you gotta pay up.

Be careful of missing parts. Even small parts will nickel and dime you to death! An engine is pretty straightforward to get, but a lot of the car and interior specific stuff will eat your wallet alive if they all need replacing.

Good luck
 
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My $0.02:

If the numbers on the body match (in other words, nobody did a VIN swap on it), it is mostly complete (and I'm talking small parts here) and you really want a Charger, then this might be the one. Chargers are not cheap, so if you want one, you gotta pay up.

Be careful of missing parts. Even small parts will nickel and dime you to death! An engine is pretty straightforward to get, but a lot of the car and interior specific stuff will eat you wallet alive if they all need replacing.

Good luck

It’s all there...maybe one door emblem is missing and done of the chrome is coming off...but it’s all in the car.
 
70 Charger buckets are one year only. Condition of grill? Big $ item.
If you can do the body/paint or have a good and reasonable body man, that is the big ticket.
I would hate to think what wealthy people pay to get their toys perfectly restored!
 
70 Charger buckets are one year only. Condition of grill? Big $ item.
If you can do the body/paint or have a good and reasonable body man, that is the big ticket.
I would hate to think what wealthy people pay to get their toys perfectly restored!

center of the grill and headlight covers are great. Silver ring on the outside is cracked on one side...not sure if that can be fixed.
 
Lots of internet info on repairing the cracks. Try 70charger.com
 
guys at 25k firm. Has broadcast sheet and numbers match. Should I be worried about the wreck damage to the door and jam? Also, the a pillar rust makes me think the cowl needs to come off as the lead is lifting?
Now all of a sudden the guy decides he wants to sell the car again?
Believe me, once the car is blasted to bare metal, you will find more issues that will need addressing. Can you do any of the metalwork or painting yourself? That is where the big money will be if you have to hire it all done, not to mention how long it will be tied up and pushed aside for other projects. If you really want a 2nd gen Charger, this might be the one for you, but be prepared for how much time and money it will take to get it up to your standards.
 
Not perfect but it’s there. I hear there might be multiple?

BB44C0A1-A061-4C56-BDEE-6BD50E0FEBC8.jpeg D0A9884A-188A-463D-8402-74AF90ADB2B5.jpeg
 
Now all of a sudden the guy decides he wants to sell the car again?
Believe me, once the car is blasted to bare metal, you will find more issues that will need addressing. Can you do any of the metalwork or painting yourself? That is where the big money will be if you have to hire it all done, not to mention how long it will be tied up and pushed aside for other projects. If you really want a 2nd gen Charger, this might be the one for you, but be prepared for how much time and money it will take to get it up to your standards.

it’s not listed, but he will sell. He kept the cuda that was bought with it as a pair. I guess he got tired of dealing with online tire kickers. And I would be selling the 68 shell to focus on one. I can do the sheetmetal work, I’d just rather not have to do frame or roof structure repair. I’d do body and paint...I have a commercial air dryer, compressor and a bunch of SATA guns.
 
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I’d guess this would need to be redone or just throw on a new door. I’d guess they cut it to fix it after the wreck that got the front fender

E2F085F9-C782-4B31-88BC-5C485D640726.jpeg
 
When the hinges wear out and people keep slamming the poorly adjusted door they crack like that that one is worse than most. If the guy is a flipper,he may take the 68 as a partial trade.
 
Crust ones on the hood. I know it’s one year only. There’s lots of dirt and grime on the pans...and 2 layers of carpet and crap. My guess is rear window corners, window frame, lower plenum (crusty), trunk, dropoffs, quarter patches, valance corners, rear foot wells, possible front floorpan, and cowl/a pillar area repair. Rails seemed solid.

the consensus was $25k is fair market. I’m just trying to make sure I’m not an idiot overpaying, as I have done before. Hopefully I learned from those.

Numbers matching, most of a build sheet but no tag, no numbers matching engine. But it’s a rare setup.



3212F196-A685-4C85-A5E0-97664A5C77E5.jpeg 9496EA6B-E6FC-404B-8C1D-12DE21134CAE.jpeg
 
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Wonder if it was always a Texas car? Seems to have a lot of rust to be there all its life. Factory undercoating as well?
 
I think 25 grand is too high and after seeing all the pics and hearing the commentary I personally would avoid this one and be patient and wait for a better car. One will come up. If it were 15 grand, maybe. This car is going to cost large dollars to restore and still won’t be a matching numbers car when you’re done, retaining it’s value is not as easy if it’s not...
Good luck with your decision...!
 
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