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Switch heating up, ammeter going crazy. Help!

PROBLEM SOLVED Okay, you may not believe this, but it turned out to be a really simple fix. I also had been noticing a loud and continuous squeal coming from the engine as soon as I turned the a/c on. Checked my dual compressor fan belts and they were loose. Tightened them up and the problem went away. No more ammeter flickering. I tried loading the alternator up by running all the electrical accessories (hi beam headlights, a/c, radio, heater fan all the way up, rear defogger on, etc.). I couldn't get the belts to squeak, even with all this stuff on simultaneously. I think the ammeter flickering was the alternator belts slipping from all the force needed to turn the alternator when there was a high electrical draw. The longer I drove, the more the belts heated up and slipped. Now that they're tight, no slippage, no flickering. Again, thanks for all the ideas submitted!
Cars with ammeter NEVER must get any accesory/device feeded from batt. Everything MUST be sourced from alt. AS DETERMINED BY WHO?......YOU?

Ok on the relay upgrade but not from batt. WHY NOT?

then ppl wonders again, and again, and again why ammeters and bulkhead failures, blaming the system. WHO ORCWHST IS: "ppl"?

Know the system before proceed with upgrades is the most important part here

Still with the relay, charging system/wiring must
On the first link posted I'M NOT recomending the amm bypass, just right the opposite saying you can live with it, but just save the bulkhead path. And explain what the reading means on every stage.

And WHY NOT the batt must be used as a main source for CONSTANT power sourcing, causing an "unreal" amm reading and unnecesary stress to the gauge. ( and bulkhead p
Just like a cow chewing its cud......same old stuff...over and over again without any "unreal" information presented to prove/disprove statment....btw....how much stress is unnecessary to the gauge?
I found this phrase on the web maybe 2 weeks ago. Actually floated on my FB initial page wall, didn't search it... I saved the image and was waiting the moment to post it. Maybe is it now based on the posts war history? Dunno.


I won't translate it... just if someone cares, do the job
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This thread has more red exes than a Chinese divorce court.
And more Xs are (and will be) floating on around just because... no reason, just trying to bother LOL.
If you feel heat at the switch... that is where the resistance is, hence heat. Personally, I think the electrical system on the old Mopars wasn’t very good when it was new, with a 35 amp alternator. The problem like others have stated is bad connections from age and like the bulkhead connector, designed for ease of assembly on the production line. I’ve seen a straight thru ammeter connector for the police cars. No firewall connection. So they knew it was an issue back then.
I do know that not everything needs to be scientifically explained. If so, most of us wouldn't have these cars or at least not for long
I have a related issue on my 71'Coronet I swapped the sealed headlights(original) since one burned to H4 bulbs all looked good but after 30mins or so with the headlights they started flashing and some burned smell came from behind the headlight switch ... Digging around I read the old headlamps were 40W and these bulbs are 65W is that my problem? also I read the pins are flipped in between the sealed and bulbs headlights would this be causing a grounding thingie?? Was thinking about the relay thing but I rather keep it simple if I can without extra stuff there.