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T-56 Reverse Lockout Causing Battery Drain-What’s the Best Fix?

70ChargerRT

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I wired up my reverse lockout just like instructions from SST stated from 2017 which makes it hot 24-7. I called SST and they said the fix now is to wire it to a switch in the cab. I don’t want to flip a switch every time I use reverse or get in and out of the car. I did some research and some are doing completely away with the reverse lockout with maybe a weaker spring. I’m no electrical guru but why can’t I just wire it in to the accessory fuse box that I’m not using and make it hot only when I turn the key on?
 
I wired up my reverse lockout just like instructions from SST stated from 2017 which makes it hot 24-7. I called SST and they said the fix now is to wire it to a switch in the cab. I don’t want to flip a switch every time I use reverse or get in and out of the car. I did some research and some are doing completely away with the reverse lockout with maybe a weaker spring. I’m no electrical guru but why can’t I just wire it in to the accessory fuse box that I’m not using and make it hot only when I turn the key on?
Connecting to the acc fuse is the same as connecting to a extra switch. You're just using the ignition switch instead of an extra switch. A switch is a switch.
Mike
 
Connecting to the acc fuse is the same as connecting to a extra switch. You're just using the ignition switch instead of an extra switch. A switch is a switch.
Mike
That’s what I was thinking. Guess I was just second guessing my self. Thanks!!!
 
It would seem that having the reverse lockout powered up anytime the ignition is on renders it basically useless.
No real difference than removing it as far as doing it’s job of trying to prevent going into reverse while the car is moving.

This type of thing seems like a better alternative to me……..a reverse “restrictor” if you will:
T56 and TR6060 Mechanical Reverse Lockout - Three Pedals
 
It would seem that having the reverse lockout powered up anytime the ignition is on renders it basically useless.
No real difference than removing it as far as doing it’s job of trying to prevent going into reverse while the car is moving.

This type of thing seems like a better alternative to me……..a reverse “restrictor” if you will:
T56 and TR6060 Mechanical Reverse Lockout - Three Pedals
I don’t see how it would render it useless since when you power it up it starts working. It totally prevents shifts to reverse if you miss 5th but I would love to try this reverse restrictor just to see how good it works.
 
Okay, then I had it backwards.

So, with the power to it, it should be pretty stiff getting it into reverse(you have to push thru the lockout).
 
Okay, then I had it backwards.

So, with the power to it, it should be pretty stiff getting it into reverse(you have to push thru the lockout).
No. I don’t completely understand how it works but when when you shift to reverse setting still it’s easy getting in to reverse at idle but it completely prevents shifts to reverse when you’re moving. If you remove the reverse lockout it’s hard to get in to reverse setting still at idle but you can slam it
In reverse when you’re moving. Maybe someone can chime in and explain it but from the research I’ve done that’s exactly how it works and how mine works.
 
On your set up is there some sort of “controller”, or is the lockout just “on” anytime power is applied?
 
On your set up is there some sort of “controller”, or is the lockout just “on” anytime power is applied?
The way I wired it up according to SST instructions back in 2017 it’s hot 24/7.
 
Am I missing something here? You only need RLO when the engine is running...or cranking.
Soooo that would be when the ign system is activated.
Get a Bosch 30 amp 4 pin relay [ the common relay square shaped relay ] & connect the relay coil to the ign coil + ve terminal. Ground the other terminal [ pins 85 & 86 ]. This relay only draws about 0.2 amps so it will not be a drain on the ign supply, nor cause any loss of ign performance.
The RLO can then be powered by the relay contacts......which will only be during cranking & running.
 
Am I missing something here? You only need RLO when the engine is running...or cranking.
Soooo that would be when the ign system is activated.
Get a Bosch 30 amp 4 pin relay [ the common relay square shaped relay ] & connect the relay coil to the ign coil + ve terminal. Ground the other terminal [ pins 85 & 86 ]. This relay only draws about 0.2 amps so it will not be a drain on the ign supply, nor cause any loss of ign performance.
The RLO can then be powered by the relay contacts......which will only be during cranking & running.
That’s a pretty good idea but I already have my sniper X-Flo tied in to the ign coil plus and it’s on a relay also so I may just tie it in to my fuse box accessories that I have nothing on.
 
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