Taking Up New Residence

[Fran Blacker]

Yup that stucker. (msp) When I had mine mounted and balanced, I was with him didn't say anything about run out. So my finger are crossed, have taken out for a ride.

 

[MW 413]

In the 1960s and 70s I use to spin balance tires with a Hunter on the car spin balancer. I never had steel rims that were out enough see the wobble. Or for that mater feel the wobble as the balancer band clamped to the inside of the rim bead area and the in and out balancer rings were what you touched to measure and place the weight in the correct place on the rim. It would have smacked your fingers if it had any wobble. I had many out of round tires and they would kick the Hunter unit out from the tire at speed on the front tires. Can't balance an out of round tire any way.

 

[khryslerkid]

In the 1960s and 70s I use to spin balance tires with a Hunter on the car spin balancer. I never had steel rims that were out enough see the wobble. Or for that mater feel the wobble as the balancer band clamped to the inside of the rim bead area and the in and out balancer rings were what you touched to measure and place the weight in the correct place on the rim. It would have smacked your fingers if it had any wobble. I had many out of round tires and they would kick the Hunter unit out from the tire at speed on the front tires. Can't balance an out of round tire any way.

I never remember any wheels out of tolerance unless they were in a wreck or ran over something that bent them.

Tires are another subject. I remember the first steel belted radials coming apart on the inside, making the whole car rock like it was on the ocean, driving it down the road.

 

[MW 413]

Radial tires had bad ply separation problems when they first came out.

I never remember any wheels out of tolerance unless they were in a wreck or ran over something that bent them.

Tires are another subject. I remember the first steel belted radials coming apart on the inside, making the whole car rock like it was on the ocean, driving it down the road.

 

[khryslerkid]

Well, I've been wanting to work on the door seals, whiskers, channels, change the locks for ones that I have a key for and some final adjustments of the door and window alignment.

You can refer back to when I removed the rear panels for how the cranks are removed.

 

[khryslerkid]

I've never seen so many clips on a panel before. The panels are in good shape. First time they have ever been removed.

Plastic vapor barrier is in good enough shape to reuse.

These are the two bolts that hold the rear track in place.

This is the adjuster/stop for how far the window rolls down. We will need this later.

This adjuster sets the wing/track in or out at the top.

These adjust the front track in or out at the bottom.

This bolt adjusts the rear track in or out at the top.

Removing the rear track out through the bottom hole.

 

[khryslerkid]

Ok, I'm jumping right to the "channel run", prep and material replacement. There were a couple requests on another thread on how it's done.

This is normally how you find the original one, in the bottom of the door. Squeak, squeak!

This side was still intact but badly worn. Scrape it out, sand and clean the inside.

I found this material on EBay for $3.00 per foot. It measures 4" wide and is about 3/32" thick. I noticed that they advertise different thicknesses.

The original one was actually rapped over the edge but that's not going to happen with this material. It's too ridged. I flattened out a piece of it for a measurement.

I'm going with 2" wide.

I'm using the 3M weather strip adhesive. Just apply it in the bottom of the track and to the center of the material. You need to have the glue on both pieces for it to stick correctly.

You can see that I found a piece of wood that fits in the track to hold the material tight while the glue dries. A couple of clamps and go find something else to do for a couple of hours.

Now that the bottom has set up good, peal back the sides and apply glue to the metal track and the material. Re install the wood and re clamp.

It's too much to try and glue the whole piece all at once. The glue sets up too quick and you'll have a hard time getting things lined up.

 

[khryslerkid]

Replacing the old wiskers you'll need to drop the window down farther then it is now. Loosen the stop jam nut and turn the screw while moving the window crank. It's a cam/eccentric that you are turning.

Now that the window is below the top of the door you have the room to remove the old whisker. A screwdriver and awl works good.

Once removed, I cleaned up the edge and gave it a coat of paint.

Installing the new one is easy. Just make sure the cloth edge is up.

I replaced the wiskers on the top of the door panel also. You can go back in this thread where I replaced the ones on the rear panels for all the details.

There is three little nibs that fasten the Polara emblem to the door panel. I found all the clips removing the panel. There isn't enough pin showing to get the clips to hold so I epoxied them.

 

[khryslerkid]

When I bought the car, someone had changed the ignition switch and that key wouldn't fit the door locks. So a fellow member sent me a set of locks and a ignition switch all keyed the same. I thought they were for a '65, not sure anymore. You can see that the leaver on the back is the same but the outer ring is a little bit different.

The one on the right is the original 1962.

I've heard guys talking about their door button having too much play where you have to push it almost all the way in before the latch releases.

Here's the adjusting screw if this happens. It holds two pieces of linkage together and when loosened it lengthens or shortens the throw.

This is the screw from the backside.

Got both sides all greased up, oiled up and final windows and doors adjusted. All back together and working as good as new!

Till next time. (Might be a post on pinion bearing replacement. Going to chance taking it to Chryslers at Carlisle first)

 

[Thunderlugs]

When I bought the car, someone had changed the ignition switch and that key wouldn't fit the door locks. So a fellow member sent me a set of locks and a ignition switch all keyed the same. I thought they were for a '65, not sure anymore. You can see that the leaver on the back is the same but the outer ring is a little bit different.

The one on the right is the original 1962.
View attachment 624051 View attachment 624052

I've heard guys talking about their door button having too much play where you have to push it almost all the way in before the latch releases.
View attachment 624057

Here's the adjusting screw if this happens. It holds two pieces of linkage together and when loosened it lengthens or shortens the throw.
View attachment 624058

This is the screw from the backside.
View attachment 624060

Got both sides all greased up, oiled up and final windows and doors adjusted. All back together and working as good as new!

Till next time. (Might be a post on pinion bearing replacement. Going to chance taking it to Chryslers at Carlisle first)

Great Tutorial Kid! You should have have a spot in a magazine as a Technical Advisor. As always, very informative, and Useful information!

 

[PRND21]

Are you sure you’re not a professional photographer? Great job.

 

[moparnation74]

Love the details...good job!

 

[khryslerkid]

Great Tutorial Kid! You should have have a spot in a magazine as a Technical Advisor. As always, very informative, and Useful information!

I only wish I could land a job like that. Good retirement job!

Are you sure you’re not a professional photographer? Great job.

Photography has always been a passion of mine since I took a class for it in 9th grade.

Love the details...good job!

I learned from the best, following your build

 

[khryslerkid]

I found a couple of used sunvisors from a Chrysler. The material was in good shape for the exception of the stitching was worn through along the edge. So I took up sewing and replaced the stitching with new thread.

Then I removed the rods from my original, dry rotted visors.

The left one is part #2241939 also there's a "L"

The right one is part #2241938 also there's a "R"

Takes a little doing pushing the rod into the visor. I used a heavy towel to protect it. Push it in as far as it will go.

I was lucky enough to salvage the plastic insert, still pliable. I'm going to order the Delrin ones that Hemi Eddy sells on EBay. You push them in as far as they will go.

I could have used these driving back from Carsile last weekend.

 

[khryslerkid]

Found the Delrin tips from Kramer on EBay were the cheapest.

 

[moobster]

Thank you, for this build thread. Beautiful workmanship and awesome write ups.

 

[khryslerkid]

Just adding these latest car shows. It's what it's all about.

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...at-carlisle-2018.155155/page-4#post-911005507

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/winner-winner-chicken-dinner.156424/

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/maaco-show-hanover-pa.156474/

 

[khryslerkid]

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/cruze-in-westminster-md-vfw.157623/#post-911039684

 

[khryslerkid]

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/brushtown-pa-3rd-annual.157625/

 

[moobster]

The car looks awesome and it's nice to see it out and about. Now that your driving it some, how's the power with the inline 4bbl's. I know the torque is gonna be high.