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Tanks inc

747mopar

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I'm finally going to squash this vapor lock issue but wanted to see if anyone has installed one and can provide some input. This is going to be stupid expensive, $900 ish to convert to an EFI tank, in tank pump, return style regulator, plumbing, blah, blah. My question is exactly what makes the Tanks inc tank special, they say it has baffles but the in tank pump kit has one to? The reason I'm asking is because I have a brand new tank sitting in my garage that would save me $300 and I have no issue making the recessed pocket nor adding a baffle while it's opened up.

Not going EFI, just sick of fuel boiling in my lines!
 
I have the tanks Inc., but I have it on my challenger I paid 350 for the tank, the pump and even included about 30 feet of fuel line

It’s been on there for about almost 2 months and it runs great no issues however, I should mention that I use the regulator to run it with the carburetor because eventually I plan to do a hemi swap, but in the meantime, I’m running it with the carburetor, but like I said, no issues


I also have a tanks Inc. on my Camaro 69 that I spent less than 500 for the whole kit and it’s been running and working well


My friend just purchased one for his GTO 69 they were doing an ls one

So I would say it’s a good thing for the price

The One on my Camaro has been there since 2014 and no issues with the pump or the tank
 
Little off subject but has anyone run a one way check valve to the carb or efi. Also does anybody run a fuel log on carb or carbs. Size of fuel line on return to tank and regulator before or after carb or efi. Just thinking out loud.
 
Doesn't a stock type vapor separator kind of do the samething? I use the wix fuel filter that has the return line nipple on it. Of course wix discontinued it.
 
Little off subject but has anyone run a one way check valve to the carb or efi. Also does anybody run a fuel log on carb or carbs. Size of fuel line on return to tank and regulator before or after carb or efi. Just thinking out loud.
Fuel line sizing will be dependent on horsepower, more horses equals more gpm (larger pump) which then means larger lines. If talking about adding an inline check valve I wouldn't see the need, regardless if it's EFI or carbureted you're pushing pressure to it the whole time it's running the only difference is carburetors will only require 4-7psi.
 
Doesn't a stock type vapor separator kind of do the samething? I use the wix fuel filter that has the return line nipple on it. Of course wix discontinued it.
Yes, although they can also be problematic at times. I'm approaching this with an.. I'm addressing everything attitude, this approach will absolutely resolve everything and I won't be revisiting it ever again. Going electric also allows me to prime the carb if need be and get all of the plumbing away from heat. Damn do I hate this crap fuel!
 
Fuel line sizing will be dependent on horsepower, more horses equals more gpm (larger pump) which then means larger lines. If talking about adding an inline check valve I wouldn't see the need, regardless if it's EFI or carbureted you're pushing pressure to it the whole time it's running the only difference is carburetors will only require 4-7psi.
True, i went overkill on a mildly built 383 a little over 400 horse on the dyno, and of course parasitic loss will knock that number down. 3/8 fuel line, 5/16 return.
 
Yes, although they can also be problematic at times. I'm approaching this with an.. I'm addressing everything attitude, this approach will absolutely resolve everything and I won't be revisiting it ever again. Going electric also allows me to prime the carb if need be and get all of the plumbing away from heat. Damn do I hate this crap fuel!
I agree, today's crappy fuel. In the long run i might be doing this also even though it's a mildly built 383.
 
True, i went overkill on a mildly built 383 a little over 400 horse on the dyno, and of course parasitic loss will knock that number down. 3/8 fuel line, 5/16 return.
I was looking into it and the pump I'd need uses 6AN fittings (3/8"), I'm north of 450hp.
 
We did exactly what your discussing on our 69 charger. We got frustrated w the stock tank for multiple reasons. We are running tanks Inc w walbro pump...after researching we went w 1/2" lines on both return and pressure w a regulator up at the carb. 3/8 likely would've been fine.. But I do not regret the going w big lines.
In my opinion the baffled tank is worth every penny. OEM is a long and slender tank and that makes it easy for the gas to starve the pickup.The tanks inc. makes NO compromises. Anything w the stock tank is a compromise. Depending on what your doing it might be adequate but we got sick of the car running out of gas and dying when we ran slicks. Those problems have gone away, the walbro is quiet and takes very little amps. We liked the system so much we bought another for our 69 superbee.
The only downside is working on it the lines at the pickup location are moved up higher and it makes it a pain to work on. A access hole was tempting but we managed to get some fittings in there w out cutting on anything. Two 1/2" braided lines made it a lot tighter then the 3/8.

In a performance application I would get the tanks Inc for a Charger even if I had a brand new OEM tank previously purchased.
 
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Always go larger than what they say to use. In most cases more is better specially in fuel departments.
 
I'm not exactly sure if you have decided to go EFI or are willing to attempt to cure the issue with other methods. My 40 Ford Pickup has a GM crate 350 and turbo 350. Since moving to Florida I was experiencing vapor lock . I added a red Holley pump to supplement the 3 different mechanical pumps, fuel line insulation etc. The engine compartment is tight on these trucks. I could feel the underhood heat with no where to go was a big cause of the vapor lock. I finallly installed a Wix 33041 fuel filter between the carb and the mechanical fuel pump. I ran a 1/4" return line back to the tank and I haven't experienced the vapor lock in months. It has hit 90's with humidity quite a few times this Spring. The supply fuel line is 3/8". Hope this helps.
 
Does anybody use a fuel temp sensor to see what is going on. Fuel coolers anybody using them.
 
Does anybody use a fuel temp sensor to see what is going on. Fuel coolers anybody using them.
The old fuel coolers. I remember those they used to fill them with dry ice ( I believe )
 
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i decided to remove the heat from the fuel lines so the gas wont boil as in all aspirated carburated vehicles...

I also have 3 feet of the same on the fuel line insulation.. past the exhaust manifolds.

I am just trying a new idea to make life better for the carburetor generation.... hoping this should help vapor lock too.

sorry for useing this tread for other ideas.

Thanks for reading this...:thumbsup:
 
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Yes, although they can also be problematic at times. I'm approaching this with an.. I'm addressing everything attitude, this approach will absolutely resolve everything and I won't be revisiting it ever again. Going electric also allows me to prime the carb if need be and get all of the plumbing away from heat. Damn do I hate this crap fuel!
Buy once, cry once is my go to saying in these situations !

I am looking to go new tank/electric pump and return regulator on my 66 - for a few reasons. One - my 66 tank is original, old, doesnt vent right and gauge/sending unit arent working.
Two - adding a bit of HP and always considering EFI of some sort later. But I think for now a 950hp will suffice.
Three - see above
 
Is it Holley that has fuel mats that direct fuel to pickup? It's act like a baffle in an OE tank, question is can you get the right design in the tank?
 
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