TF 727 383 and 440
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hofferwood
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My book for says for '77-'78 it should be 100 grams and look just like the pic I posted.
But all this is above my pay grade.
But all this is above my pay grade.
Rebelrouser
Well-Known Member
the guys talking about the converter balance have you in the right direction, the only thing I can add is make sure the kickdown linkage is working properly. 440's are a little wider and taller, will make the linkage adjustment off. Kickdown rod should just be bottomed out at WOT, and just touching the throttle valve at idle, you can feel the spring resistance before you hook up the linkage.
You brought up a good point, it depends on the size of the converter and where it's welded on depending on distance from center.
Can vsj100 show a pic of the converter with drain plug
If you look at a b&m 10237, the balance for all cast B/RB cranks are the same.
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IF the engine has a forged crank with a cast crank balancer, that could be the problem. At what rpm does the vibration show up? Before I knew all of the differences in cast vs forge crank engines, I installed a weighted TC onto a 318 and the vibration started at a fairly low rpm. Having the wrong balancer will probably show up at a higher rpm since the weight is in a smaller circle towards the center of the balancer. The weights on a TC are further outwards so the imbalance will show up sooner. Think about a merry go round if you've ever played on one as a kid. The further you stand near the center, the easier it is to hang on vs being out on the outer edge of it. The further out you are, the more effect your weight will have on you.
vsj100
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Yes! This is the best solution. I have one cued up to buy.
vsj100
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I will post the picture tomorrow. Thanks
That is what I suggested that he make sure it is a cast crank motor. There has been more than one forged crank motor that someone stuck a cast crank balancer on.
hofferwood
Well-Known Member
If it doesn't have a windage tray, he could look thru the oil drain hole with a endoscope and tell by the shape of the counterweight lobes on the crank----------maybe? (stolen from @1 Wild R/T )
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Those numbers mean nothing. Its whats inside that matters. If you do not know the history of this engine or its build, you have no idea if its forged or cast. What if you spend the money on a flex plate or converter and it still vibrates? Myself I would want to know as even in production there was both forged and cast cranks used through the end of the 440 production in 1978. So flip the coin.
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Couldn't be more true^^^^
I had a 77 440 that had a forged balancer, no weight, shook bad. Pulled the pan and of course it was a cast motor..
Proper way, pull pan take a look.
If I was a betting man, it's a cast motor with no converter weight.
Common install situation.
The easiest way to try is by changing your flex plate. To change your flex plate, you do not need to remove the transmission or the torque converter. Unbolt your old flex plate, slide it out and slide in a weighted one.
For example:
The only caveat is I have done this with a flex plate that looks like the below picture (this one not weighted). I have never tried a weighted one of the style shown above. I assume it would still fit through the inspection cover, but don't know for sure.
Good luck!
For example:
The only caveat is I have done this with a flex plate that looks like the below picture (this one not weighted). I have never tried a weighted one of the style shown above. I assume it would still fit through the inspection cover, but don't know for sure.
Good luck!
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