Rich H.
Well-Known Member
He was having a great time until I came along with a pair of tweezers. Funeral portrait of this bad boy.
The GTX (1969 Plymouth GTX)
- Thread starter Rich H.
- Start date
Rich H.
Well-Known Member
Correction is going pretty well.
Most of the dirt is on the tops of fenders and tops of doors, because that's the side facing the outside air intake.
Pretty substantial dirt on the fenders especially. You can fly swat every insect you can find, there can be not a single one in sight, and the minute you start painting.......Here they come! They love it, I think it's an intoxicant for them and like party time.
Process is hand blocking 1500-2000-2500 with Durablock and Mirka powdered guide coat as a visual aid (messy but it works very well), Meguairs M110 on a wool pad at low speed very quicky gets this.
I'm OK with it having a little bit of texture, it does not really show very much on this color and keeps as much material on the car
as possible which is a good goal for a long haul vehicle. It's well past driver quality already and after I get the whole car
pretty close to this, I'm going to stop.
I'll give that a chance to age, and then if/when I (sorry) "take it to the next level" (so cliche) later on, I'll use a rigid block
and get it flatter.
I'm a little bit stunned I was able to achieve this.
Super Short Video
Most of the dirt is on the tops of fenders and tops of doors, because that's the side facing the outside air intake.
Pretty substantial dirt on the fenders especially. You can fly swat every insect you can find, there can be not a single one in sight, and the minute you start painting.......Here they come! They love it, I think it's an intoxicant for them and like party time.
Process is hand blocking 1500-2000-2500 with Durablock and Mirka powdered guide coat as a visual aid (messy but it works very well), Meguairs M110 on a wool pad at low speed very quicky gets this.
I'm OK with it having a little bit of texture, it does not really show very much on this color and keeps as much material on the car
as possible which is a good goal for a long haul vehicle. It's well past driver quality already and after I get the whole car
pretty close to this, I'm going to stop.
I'll give that a chance to age, and then if/when I (sorry) "take it to the next level" (so cliche) later on, I'll use a rigid block
and get it flatter.
I'm a little bit stunned I was able to achieve this.
Super Short Video
Rich H.
Well-Known Member
When you get that thing out in the sun it’s going to be spectacular…
Rich H.
Well-Known Member
Man, I hope it's as stunning as I think it is!
It is the highest quality work I am capable of doing with current tools and skills, and
I have ever personally done anything better.
Of course, it's fair to say tools and skills are constantly upgrading, so we only hope to improve in the future, inch by inch.
Tonight I will be experimenting with a homemade Oak sanding block tonight to see if I can find an improvement.
I believe the current durablock to have just a little too much "give" to knock down certain defects and am looking for
a potential improvement from a more rigid block material. Then after the defect is knocked down, the "give" in the durablock
would be a desirable thing to refine the scratch to the point it can be buffed out.
Of course, it's always better to spray without defects and I did my best! The majority of the problems were self inflicted and expected....In most places, an insect would land and get stuck, I'd pick the insect out with tweezers, then spray some more clear on that area to give material to work with, and then the additional clear would sag after that. I always like having extra material
to work with rather than running short.
It is the highest quality work I am capable of doing with current tools and skills, and
I have ever personally done anything better.
Of course, it's fair to say tools and skills are constantly upgrading, so we only hope to improve in the future, inch by inch.
Tonight I will be experimenting with a homemade Oak sanding block tonight to see if I can find an improvement.
I believe the current durablock to have just a little too much "give" to knock down certain defects and am looking for
a potential improvement from a more rigid block material. Then after the defect is knocked down, the "give" in the durablock
would be a desirable thing to refine the scratch to the point it can be buffed out.
Of course, it's always better to spray without defects and I did my best! The majority of the problems were self inflicted and expected....In most places, an insect would land and get stuck, I'd pick the insect out with tweezers, then spray some more clear on that area to give material to work with, and then the additional clear would sag after that. I always like having extra material
to work with rather than running short.
Rich H.
Well-Known Member
This correction stuff takes forever. It'd go much faster if I had a little more experience but there is only one way to get that! I have to say it's nice to just go work on it for an hour or two at a time again and not feel like it needs entire days dedicated to it, to make any progress. Still around, still plugging away, but that's about all I have to report.
Take it slow so you don’t make a mistake and create more work for yourself. I’m sure it will turn out just fine…
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Isn't it nice not having to watch the clock or being under the gun to chop chop? Go out to the garage, put some tunes on, do some correction while having a brew.
Rich H.
Well-Known Member
Just picking away at it when I can. The mess is maybe .001% cleaned up but that's just the way it goes when you're me, and want to work much more than you want to clean LOL. Someday entire days will be spent on cleaning.....but not today....
I attempted a modern DA approach for a minute but it didn't work for me at all. I feel a Novice like myself needs time to see what the heck is going on, and it all happens too quick with a DA. The upside of that is, the green film 1500 DA sheets are much nicer for hand sanding than the regular paper I was using, so that helped.
I find I need the powdered guide coat less and less now that I have a somewhat better feel for it.
Have also switched to hard blocks (Oak, and a deep well socket) for the first passes over areas with known dirt/insect issues,
then flexible blocks after.
I'm thinking I might try to leave a little bit of texture in it, it almost has a stockish look in some of the places where I had no choice but to make it flat because of insects and dirt.
I totally love the color but now I understand why painters complain about silver metallic so much.It was really pretty darn painful to shoot and make the color/metallics look right. Horizontal surfaces were easier than vertical.
With the temporary Menards booth LED lighting pulled down, the general shop lighting different K factor shows a good flop to green.
I attempted a modern DA approach for a minute but it didn't work for me at all. I feel a Novice like myself needs time to see what the heck is going on, and it all happens too quick with a DA. The upside of that is, the green film 1500 DA sheets are much nicer for hand sanding than the regular paper I was using, so that helped.
I find I need the powdered guide coat less and less now that I have a somewhat better feel for it.
Have also switched to hard blocks (Oak, and a deep well socket) for the first passes over areas with known dirt/insect issues,
then flexible blocks after.
I'm thinking I might try to leave a little bit of texture in it, it almost has a stockish look in some of the places where I had no choice but to make it flat because of insects and dirt.
I totally love the color but now I understand why painters complain about silver metallic so much.It was really pretty darn painful to shoot and make the color/metallics look right. Horizontal surfaces were easier than vertical.
With the temporary Menards booth LED lighting pulled down, the general shop lighting different K factor shows a good flop to green.
Last edited:
Any updates Rich?
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