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Things the car factories did that made no sense to you

The oil filter location on my former (now my son's) '93 Cutlass Ciera, 3.3L.
The cleanest and easiest way to change the oil filter is to pull the passenger front wheel.
And even then I have to use a piece of cardboard to channel the oil away from the frame so the oil doesn't drip for several days after the filter change :rolleyes:
Some other GMs in that era did the same thing IIRC.
 
I've only owned ONE Ford and that was for two days.
I know very little about them other than what I have heard or read. All the weird engine families, balance factors, the stupid suspension and steering design, vacuum windshield wipers too ?
You're lucky you didn't work on them. It always seemed they had some weird or screwed up way of designing things to make it difficult.
 
It is interesting how up until the 1970s, the automakers made noticeable changes to the cars every year. In the mid 70s, cars didn't change much from year to year. Can anyone tell a 1976 Cordoba from a 1978? How about a 1973 Dart from a 1976?
Yes, the changes began to be more subtle. But when you've seen enough routinely back then it was easy to spot differences in grilles, headlamps, taillamps, etc. It wasn't in the sheet metal, as much as it was in the trim.
 
The oil filter location on my former (now my son's) '93 Cutlass Ciera, 3.3L.
The cleanest and easiest way to change the oil filter is to pull the passenger front wheel.
And even then I have to use a piece of cardboard to channel the oil away from the frame so the oil doesn't drip for several days after the filter change :rolleyes:
Some other GMs in that era did the same thing IIRC.
Well, I have to say changing the oil in my 2020 Ram is stupid. The oil filter is tucked way up and directly over the front suspension. I also have a factory off road package, and no matter how I try (yes, I have tried plastic, cardboard, etc.), some of the oil always runs into the top of the skid plate. It is the worst vehicle I have ever had as far as changing oil. Quite the hassle and mess! The oil from the oil pan is also directed at the sway bar and lubricates that on every oil change, but at least that is easy and quick to wipe up.
 
Well, I have to say changing the oil in my 2020 Ram is stupid. The oil filter is tucked way up and directly over the front suspension. I also have a factory off road package, and no matter how I try (yes, I have tried plastic, cardboard, etc.), some of the oil always runs into the top of the skid plate. It is the worst vehicle I have ever had as far as changing oil. Quite the hassle and mess! The oil from the oil pan is also directed at the sway bar and lubricates that on every oil change, but at least that is easy and quick to wipe up.
I worked at the dealer for years and I always said, the guy that designs the oil filter location doen't have lunch with the guy that designs the chassis. :mob: :mob: :rofl:
 
The oil filter location on my former (now my son's) '93 Cutlass Ciera, 3.3L.
The cleanest and easiest way to change the oil filter is to pull the passenger front wheel.
And even then I have to use a piece of cardboard to channel the oil away from the frame so the oil doesn't drip for several days after the filter change :rolleyes:
Some other GMs in that era did the same thing IIRC.

Reminds me of a '62 Rambler I once had, try to remove this filter without douching the whole engine.

filter.PNG
 
The LA series had a great placement for the oil filter as long as the exhaust wasn't modified to block it.
The B/RB has easy access too. My 2002 Dodge 1500 had a 4.7 with the oil filter in the same spot as the big block though they included a drain trough under it. Quite smart and helpful.
The 2007 truck has a 5.7 and oil wants to pour onto the steering rack when removing the filter.
 
My 18 Ram 2500 Cummins you have to go through the right front wheel well inner fender access hole to even see the filter. Taking the wheel off is the easiest way to change it and oil goes all over the front suspension because there is no access from the bottom or top. What a PITA. It's a good thing I'm left handed as that's the only hand you can get in to remove and install it.
 
Why did Dodge discontinue the crew cab in the 80’s then put a Cummins in the Chassis? Had they refired the Crew cab and a Cummins in the early 90’s Ford and Chevy would have basically stopped making pickups.
I sold new Fords during the 90's.

Every few years we got a visit from some corporate mucky-muck who was on a PR campaighn to assure the dealer the company " cared" and they were there to listen to the dealers problems.

Around '94 the VP of sales paid us a visit. I grabbed his ear and asked him why do I see movies based in Africa and South America that show dozens of Ranger, Nissan and Toyota crew cab pickups yet here in the US all you can buy are F350 CC ?

He told me American's will not buy crew cab pickups except for budiness use.

Seems his crystal ball was a little fuzzy thst day...
 
My 18 Ram 2500 Cummins you have to go through the right front wheel well inner fender access hole to even see the filter. Taking the wheel off is the easiest way to change it and oil goes all over the front suspension because there is no access from the bottom or top. What a PITA. It's a good thing I'm left handed as that's the only hand you can get in to remove and install it.
On my ‘98 2500 Cummins I could change the filter from above with a pliers-type wrench. The ‘05 and my current 2012 has to be done from below. I welded a 3/4 nut on the bottom of a cup- style wrench, and with 12” of extension, off it comes.
 
Bob, the guy I wrote about in this thread:
Friends that you had to let go.

Post # 182.
Anyway, Bob spoke of how a Dodge dealer quoted $1200 to change the spark plugs in his 2019 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi.
Okay, it is not an easy job, there are 16 plugs to do with some obstacles in the way but TWELVE hundred dollars ??
You have to remember dealers don't want to fix your car/truck. They want to sell you a new one. Once your on the lot, they hoping your going to look around, maybe a sales man can talk you into a trade in as is instead of paying $1200 for that repair. Even if you go through the repair one of their top sales man might try to convince you that now you made the repair they can give you top dollar trade in since it running so good now. If you just pay your repair bill and leave, they make good money on the repair. But they are really trying to get you to leave in a new one.
 
My father was in the car business for over 27 years. He sold new and used, everything from Chevrolets to Mopars to Volvos. He passed in 1995.
Unless things have changed dramatically, the dealers make the most money on parts and service. Selling the cars opens the door to then sell parts and service. Dad told me that the parts and service departments pay the freight for the whole dealership. ALL the overhead, the salaries, the electricity, water, sewer, insurance, lawyers, paper clips....everything. They don't make a lot of profit on new cars despite the high prices you see.
 
My father was in the car business for over 27 years. He sold new and used, everything from Chevrolets to Mopars to Volvos. He passed in 1995.
Unless things have changed dramatically, the dealers make the most money on parts and service. Selling the cars opens the door to then sell parts and service. Dad told me that the parts and service departments pay the freight for the whole dealership. ALL the overhead, the salaries, the electricity, water, sewer, insurance, lawyers, paper clips....everything. They don't make a lot of profit on new cars despite the high prices you see.
I guess it may be different in different parts of the country. Here in Hawaii, the profit margin is on new car sales. Recently I was doing some work at Servco. Hawaii biggest Toyota dealer. They were repainting a 8 year old Camry under warranty due to the clear coat was failing. I asked him why isn't the car out of warranty. He said the customer has been buying Toyotas there for years. After the car is repainted the sales man would try and talk then into trading it in for top dollar. Or if they didn't do it right away, in a year or so when they do trade it in, it would be easier to sell.
 
I tried to be a car salesman in 1985. I was so good at it, I spent the following 36 years in construction framing buildings!
Out here, the money is in used cars. Dealers give bottom dollar for traded in cars, spend a few hundred cleaning them up and then list them barely below new car prices.
There is also a fair amount of money and number manipulation that occurs during negotiation.
They may tell you that they are giving you $5000 for your trade in but they are often not budging on the price of the new car.
If your trade in is actually worth $3500, that $1500 difference eats from the profit of the car. Sometimes they still do it to end up making money on the financing and extended warranties.
The car that you're buying is just the carrot they dangle in front of you. The majority of the money that they make on a car sale is the financing and extended warranties. They think that if you are happy with the purchase, that you will return for parts and service.
 
A8 TorqueFlite fluid change. ONLY the Germans could **** that up so much making it a nightmare.
IMHFO (to you automotive engineers, or the damn bean counters more like)
everything that has any replaceable/serviceable fluid in it
that needs changing/servicing at any time, in/on any car or truck should have a drainplug
& a filler spout, with cap &/or dipstick, Federally mandated

having to take the pan off to drain any Torqueflite is stupid
I never have understood oversite or that cheapskate crap,
cheap *** penny pinching (bean counters), to save a $ 0.05- $0.25 cents in the process

I often change to an aftermarket cast alum. pan, 1st fluid change
so I have a drainplug for ease in servicing, same on the rear ends, or covers/pans
 
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