Think I went about this wrong?? Floor board fix.

Cranky

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But I'll make the best of it now. Will probably use some self taping sheet metal screws to help hold it in place while cutting.....

IMG_20220423_115433199.jpg
 

RemCharger

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What part is wrong about what you're doing?
 

Cranky

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What part is wrong about what you're doing?
It just doesn't seem or feel like I'm going about it right lol. It sure isn't laying in place like I think it should. First time to do something like this. There's also have a 2x2" frame connector that's under it and that seems to be part of the problem but the part that meets with the drive shaft hump is the part that has me wondering. Thinking that once I screw it down in a few places and make sure of it's location, I'll cut the front edge and go from there. Does that sound like a plan in the right direction?
 

RemCharger

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I wouldn't cut into the hump unless necessary, leave as much original as you can.
Pics of what it looks like under the patch panel?
 

slimt

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What is the issue? The metal not laying down properly?
 

slimt

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You have more pictures Cranky?
 

Cranky

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I wouldn't cut into the hump unless necessary, leave as much original as you can.
Pics of what it looks like under the patch panel?
The original hump material goes down about 2 1/2" past the seat belt mount. I did cut out the old mount because it actually had rust around the reinforcement plate and that area is squared off. That's one of the reasons that I left the 'new' metal long in that area.

What is the issue? The metal not laying down properly?
That's what I'm thinking...

You have more pictures Cranky?
Not at the moment. I'm about to do some mowing and well, not sure if I can get more pics within the next few days....
 

slimt

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Is there a brace underneath the pan holding the rest of the floor?
 

Cranky

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Is there a brace underneath the pan holding the rest of the floor?
There is supposed to be a floor brace that's not in there yet plus I see a couple of places where the pan is resting on...one being the frame tie. Decided I had time to crawl under it and take a couple of pics and saw the spots that need trimming. Maybe I got this more that I thought!? Pics below....

I wouldn't cut into the hump unless necessary, leave as much original as you can.
Pics of what it looks like under the patch panel?
There's a 'booger' weld that looks like it has some epoxy in it too that I'd like to get rid of and that's another reason to cut higher on the tunnel. It's at the end of the tunnel before the transition to where the back seat bottom sits.

IMG_20220423_135750493.jpg IMG_20220423_135821935.jpg
 

slimt

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Putting the pan from the top to the main pan is the best. But dont cut to butt match ,leave overlap. I would push the pan tight againts the main and self tap screws to hold in place. Then trim where you need , after screwed down go underneath and sharpie the edge. To show a line all around. , anything you have on the front and back. Sits where you have it. That gets welded up then seam sealed after .
Leave at least a 1 1/2 of metal on the sides On the pan. I myself drill or punch 3/8” holes every 3” on the pan to weld to the main panel. . Then weld the edge inch at a time. Tap pan edge to fit tight or press then tack you have alot of prep to do prior.

I have a hard time explaining. I just think of the process as I go along
 
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Stanton

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My attempt at putting a floor section in that way was a total failure.
 

1967coronet

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Your ok so far cranky,
Like the guys are saying , save all the tunnel you can.
Line up your stampings to your original pans. If sheet metal self tappers won't hold use 1/4 " stuff and draw down flush with a flat washer. Weld up the 1/4 holes when done.
Hell we have used a 2x4 to span roof rail to rail then friction jack down to press in place.
 
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threewood

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What part is wrong about what you're doing?
If it's the rest driver side pan you are replacing, remove the old pan but leave at least 2" on all sides. It removes enough so the new pan can fit down tight and you can scribe a mark where it needs to be cut for a butt weld.
 

1967coronet

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Concave and corners you may have to pie cut / slice to lay them in the recess.
Myself I'm with slim and prefer a small overlap.
 

Cranky

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Concave and corners you may have to pie cut / slice to lay them in the recess.
Myself I'm with slim and prefer a small overlap.
Thinking it's the best way too. This is too much work for some out of shape 70 year old lol but from what I'm seeing, I'm not that out of shape!
 

1967coronet

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Thinking it's the best way too. This is too much work for some out of shape 70 year old lol but from what I'm seeing, I'm not that out of shape!
Hell I'm sitting here with a ice bag on my knee , lol.
 
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