This cant be good.

[davek]

Changing tires on the Bee and seen this on driver side upper control arm.. Thinking bushing is coming out. Was getting ready to drop off for an alignment. Also noticed a bad outer tie rod on pass side. The Bee runs straight no pull but see tire wear on inside driver tire.

 

[Cranky]

Not sure if I'm seeing anything wrong.....

 

[RemCharger]

New control arm time

 

[dadsbee]

Yep, looks like your arm is rotating on the bushing shell vs the rubber twisting back and forth.

 

[Kern Dog]

I’d still use it. New bushings with a couple of tack welds and I’d have no worries about it.

 

[91r/t]

^^ If the bushings and sleeves are newer, you could always squeeze it back together and tack weld the existing sleeves in and call it a day. Tack weld shouldn't get hot enough to piss off the rubber.

 

[davek]

Thanks guys

 

[BearDodge67]

Just me.. I'd be getting another UCA... notice how it's bent on the bushing, more space on bottom than top? That's not normal, something caused/is causing the arm to bend. This how it should look..

 

[davek]

might just do this Upper Control Arms

 

[yella71]

check your brake line mounting also. get a clip for it

 

[davek]

check your brake line mounting also. get a clip for it

Yep thanks for the heads up.

 

[zyzzyx]

Glad you cought it. Quit doing wheelies in front of those Chebbie guys!

 

[WS23U1]

It may be time for a front end rebuild. Have it all checked out.

 

[BearDodge67]

might just do this Upper Control Arms

Just me... I'd get a set of used ones, there were a few for sale not long ago.. just look at the thread of the guy that bought a repopped set with mismatched boots and stripped out ball joint holes..

 

[dan juhasz]

just curious what does the other bushing on that same arm look like? how can the arm get that far away from the bushing unless the arm is bent or there is a structural problem with the shock tower.

 

[Charles Cook]

You’ve been neglecting the Bee since you bought the Charger. You should probably sell one of them to me.

 

[BearDodge67]

It may be time for a front end rebuild. Have it all checked out.

And use quality parts like Moog, you'll pay more than a kit, but you'll thank yourself in long run.. Here's Moog part #'s, which are still being made, and can be gotten from most parts places.

70-72 Coronet Suspension and Steering Parts.
Lower Ball Joint (Left) K783
Lower Ball Joint (Right) K781
Upper Ball Joint (both) K772
Lower Control Arm Bushing K791
Upper Control Arm Bushing Kit (4 bushings) K408 (If offset bushings are needed, use K7103)
Upper Control Arm Bolt Kit K8243A (K7030 includes bushings)
Sway Bar Bushing (Bar to frame) K5241
Strut Rod Bushing Kit K7016A. (Improved design is K7026)
Inner Tie Rod ES401L
Outer Tie Rod ES401R
Tie Rod Sleeve ES319S
Idler Arm K7041

Found a video I made of tie rods from a "kit" I purchased with 4K miles on them vs a new Moog.

 

[Black_Sheep]

As hard as those bushings go in, I'm surprised it would do that. I agree with the other guys that say something's bent.

 

[66 Sat]

might just do this Upper Control Arms

If you're thinking of going down this route, then I'd pay the extra for the PST Tubular Arms ($406 vs $279).

I've got the factory style replacements and just gone through the ball joint/stripped thread issues. The rubber seals they come with are a cheap plasticky type rubber and split after a few years. When I was inspecting them to replace, I notice one of the ball joints was loose in the arm (driver's side). So much for needing a 6 foot breaker bar to get them out - I unscrewed it with a small pipe wrench.
I had 2 spare ball joints from the super front end kit I'd bought when I did the front end, so used these as the replacements. The ball joints themselves seem to be better quality and the rubber seal is better, more pliable and similar to the tie rod end ball joint seals.

Thew new ball joint went into the driver's side well and torqued up ok. The passenger side was tight in the arm coming out...and took half the threads of the uca with it on the way out. On this side I had to tack weld the new ball in. It did go in tight as it cuts its own threads on the way in, but once seated wouldn't torque up. I think the factory design has too shallow an area where the threads are. The tubular arms have a much deeper threaded area from the photos.

Whichever way you go I'd also buy the correct socket and check the torque on the ball joint once the arms are installed - don't trust that they were tightened correctly when they were made.

 

[493 Mike]

How could the arm fit in the tight slots or bushing come out with the 1/2" cam bolts squeezing everything together?
Mike
After a closer look, I see the issue as everyone else has stated.
Mike