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Thoughts on boring a 440 block to 60 over

moparjohnny

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This is a 67 block that is 30 now and probably going to need another 30 to clean up.
 
If you hit water jacket borin to .060 over, it was too thin at .030 and really too thin at STD. Remember, .060 is only .030 per side. If that's all it takes for those blocks to be useless, then they didn't have any business even bein made. If he's already at .030 and he think's .040 won't clean it up, what choice does he really have? BORE IT.
 
Without a sonic check?


I checked out Sonic once. They weren't that great.


Sonic1.jpg
 
If you hit water jacket borin to .060 over, it was too thin at .030 and really too thin at STD. Remember, .060 is only .030 per side.

As you know, it’s not always about hitting water, it’s about keeping the cylinder from distorting. It also matters if the thin spots are on thrust axis.

The Hemi legend in Denver sleeves all 8 cylinders — on purpose. Another guy was talked into taking his original, std. bore max wedge block +.030 without a sonic check and ended up with 2 warped cylinders.

If that's all it takes for those blocks to be useless, then they didn't have any business even bein made. If he's already at .030 and he think's .040 won't clean it up, what choice does he really have? BORE IT.

They had no way to check for core shift back then, and a low CRI doesn’t mean squat.

And my choice would be to sleeve it. Personally, I’d never put $800-$1400 in a block without a sonic check first.
 
I know. But what I'm saying is........get a feeler gauge and look at .060. .060 aint gonna make the difference. If it would, then that would the block was a worthless POS in STD. Get what I'm sayin?
 
64 Post, your photo is hard to look at. I see it at Moparts too. It bothers me. Good thing it isn't at the bullet as well.
I like your posts and all, but you really do look creepy.
Joking, of course.
 
64 post, your photo is hard to look at. I see it at moparts too. It bothers me. Good thing it isn't at the bullet as well.
I like your posts and all, but you really do look creepy.
Joking, of course.

lol
 
yep, i’m starting to get it.

do you advocate the use a torque plate?

It depends on what you're doin. If it's just a street car or even a 75% street 25% race then no. Because 1) it's totally not worth the effort to find a shop WITH a MoPar torque plate and then 2) usually not worth paying someone that hardly ever usues one to figure out how to do it. I'll tell you what I DO advocate much more than a torque plate on most everything. Making sure the block decks are at the correct specified height and square with the crank centerline. Just doing that single step can actually add power to a MoPar with both compression AND assuring that lifter preload is even accross the board.

- - - Updated - - -

It is creepy as hell. If you squint, you see Wilford Brimley.

64 Post, your photo is hard to look at. I see it at Moparts too. It bothers me. Good thing it isn't at the bullet as well.
I like your posts and all, but you really do look creepy.
Joking, of course.
 
I don't know man, that's lookin purdy tasty.

Rusty seriously...Do you really consider that food??? Or any fast food for that matter? That stuff there is a Cardiac waiting in the wings. Just my 2 cents and opinion here mind you. And I haven't had a fast food...so called meal...since I retired from the AF in 2007. I avoid that stuff like the Plaque....440's also have thicker spacing between piston bores so go for it....
 
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