padam
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What is the thickness of that flywheel?
Throwout bearing touching fingers.
- Thread starter TallGuy71
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Most are 1", not sure where this 1.25 unit came from...
TallGuy71
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Originally a 4 spd car.
If my experience with McLeod diaphragm clutches carries over, the pressure plate fingers need to move about 3/4 to 7/8” for clean shifting. Add something for free throw and you are looking at about 1” for TO bearing travel. You can bench assemble the flywheel, disc and pressure plate on the bench and measure the stack height from the flywheel-crank flange to the fingers. Then mount the bell housing with a couple of bolts on the engine and measure the bell housing effective from the crank flange to the transmission-bell housing face. Subtract the first from the second and you have the distance from the clutch fingers to the face of the transmission. Then you can play with the TO bearing dimension and TO bearing retainer dimensions and see how much room is left for TO bearing travel - it needs to be around that 1 inch or more to include some free play.
The 1.25” flywheel versus more typical 1” thick flywheel may be the problem but there could be some other issues too.
On GM cars I usually use an adjustable height fork ball pivot to optimize the fork position and travel. I guess on a Mopar you can do the same to some extent with shims under the pivot. All aftermarket manufactured clutch’s height and flywheel thicknesses vary all over the place. You can’t count on any of it to be a duplicate of the OEM pieces anymore. And going from a B&B to a diaphragm pressure plate adds to this, although it can be adapted. For this reason it’s always a good idea to do a lot of trial mockup with clutch, flywheel, fork, TO Bearing and linkage install on the bench and then the engine before trying to mount the transmission.
The 1.25” flywheel versus more typical 1” thick flywheel may be the problem but there could be some other issues too.
On GM cars I usually use an adjustable height fork ball pivot to optimize the fork position and travel. I guess on a Mopar you can do the same to some extent with shims under the pivot. All aftermarket manufactured clutch’s height and flywheel thicknesses vary all over the place. You can’t count on any of it to be a duplicate of the OEM pieces anymore. And going from a B&B to a diaphragm pressure plate adds to this, although it can be adapted. For this reason it’s always a good idea to do a lot of trial mockup with clutch, flywheel, fork, TO Bearing and linkage install on the bench and then the engine before trying to mount the transmission.
TallGuy71
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It has the Sixpack damper so it probably has the heavy rods... I have seen guys drill the backside of the damper to create a zero balance damper that still looks like the Sixpack damper but I doubt that's the case...
And why would someone do that you ask? Because the Sixpack rods are heavy... But still use the same bolts as an LY rod... The bolts break more often than the beam portion of the rod... So all the Sixpack rods do is increase the bob weight of the engine & cause it to rev slower...
Properly massaged LY rods are lighter & equally strong, the aftermarket offers rods that are stronger with bigger bolts... So there are reasons to do it, but keeping the Sixpack damper completes the "look"
And why would someone do that you ask? Because the Sixpack rods are heavy... But still use the same bolts as an LY rod... The bolts break more often than the beam portion of the rod... So all the Sixpack rods do is increase the bob weight of the engine & cause it to rev slower...
Properly massaged LY rods are lighter & equally strong, the aftermarket offers rods that are stronger with bigger bolts... So there are reasons to do it, but keeping the Sixpack damper completes the "look"
Daves69
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