Throwout bearing touching fingers.

[TallGuy71]

Okay, there is no recess on the back of my Centerforce flywheel. This flywheel # 090230 ? is a combination 143 tooth ring gear and will accept a 10 1/2" or 11" pressure plate. Again, the flywheel thickness is 31/32 " or about .951 ths.
If they normally have a recess on the block side, someone else will have to help. No stock flywheel here.

I can’t remember the exact number now but I did measure it from the recess today and it was just right at an inch.

 

[TallGuy71]

Getting closer yall, I guess. I spend 5 hours today trying to put the trans back in to no avail. I’m using a trans jack, guide pins, and I’ve got it about an inch from the bell housing. I loosened the pressure plate once I knew that the splines on the input shaft was catching to try and loosen the clutch a tiny bit in case it’s wasn’t aligned exactly perfect using the guide tool provided.. The input shaft turns if I turn the engine so I know the splines are in far enough to catch.
Any other advice from you guys on how to get it in? I’ve measured all around the mating surfaces and it doesn’t seem like it could possibly be any more straight on. I know this shaft fits because it was all together a few weeks ago.

 

[AR67GTX]

Well, it needs to be close to start with. But before putting in the transmission put in the yoke and hook up the clutch linkage. If it doesn’t slide home put it in one of the gears and slightly twist the yoke while pushing on the transmission. If that doesn’t work, find a helper to sit inside and while you are maintaining pressure on the transmission have them slowly but steadily push the clutch to the floor. One or the other should get it in place. I do study the face of the bell housing and the face of the trans to make sure they are parallel. I’ve even gone so far as to measure the distance apart at the top and at the bottom to make sure they are the same.

 

[padam]

Well, it needs to be close to start with. But before putting in the transmission put in the yoke and hook up the clutch linkage. If it doesn’t slide home put it in one of the gears and slightly twist the yoke while pushing on the transmission. If that doesn’t work, find a helper to sit inside and while you are maintaining pressure on the transmission have them slowly but steadily push the clutch to the floor. One or the other should get it in place. I do study the face of the bell housing and the face of the trans to make sure they are parallel. I’ve even gone so far as to measure the distance apart at the top and at the bottom to make sure they are the same.

This is all good advice.

Somtimes mine will mate right up, other times I have to use all of those tricks.

I will use a big pry bar to shove tre trans in. Sometimes I have to shake it a little, jack it up and down. Kinda like trying to satisfy a woman.

 

[Bird 426]

I have used longer bolts in the past, when I knew that the splines were started, to get it in farther, then the orginal trans bolts. This can be sketchy, easy to break an ear off of the trans, but have had to do this everytime I have had my trans out of my '69 Dart. Not sure why, used to take my 4-speed out back in the day alot, didn't seem to have this problem back then. Pushing the clutch in can work too.

 

[AR67GTX]

Were you able to mock up the fork and linkage fit before moving on to installing the transmission?

I ask as I’m getting to that point on my car. My new McLeod clutch has a free height of .15” less than the Chinese clutch I removed and the McLeod TO bearing is .1” shorter than the old TO bearing. So I’m gaining around 1/4” on clearance which is enough to make me think it might throw the outer end of the fork back too far and I may have to shim the fork pivot mount. I’m going to try to source some shims or fabricate some to have on hand. Here is how my fork originally set.

 

[Charlie Brown]

Getting closer yall, I guess. I spend 5 hours today trying to put the trans back in to no avail. I’m using a trans jack, guide pins, and I’ve got it about an inch from the bell housing. I loosened the pressure plate once I knew that the splines on the input shaft was catching to try and loosen the clutch a tiny bit in case it’s wasn’t aligned exactly perfect using the guide tool provided.. The input shaft turns if I turn the engine so I know the splines are in far enough to catch.
Any other advice from you guys on how to get it in? I’ve measured all around the mating surfaces and it doesn’t seem like it could possibly be any more straight on. I know this shaft fits because it was all together a few weeks ago.

It could be that the trans input shaft is not exactly inline with the pilot bearing / bushing. I had this issue with the TKX I installed. The splines would engauge, but would not go the last 1/2 inch. The issue was the cheap plastic clutch allignment tool provided with the install kit. Too much play / wiggle. I ended up using the actual steel output shaft on the trans to allign everything.

 

[AR67GTX]

Brewers has old 23 spline inputs that they cut off in front of the gear and the sell for alignment tools for something like $25. Much better than fighting with the plastic ones.

 

[kiwigtx]

Every time I see this thread all I see is "touching cloth" ....

 

[TallGuy71]

Got it in today! And everything looks great! I’ve got play in the throwout bearing so it is no longer resting on the fingers. I took my time this morning pulling everything out, double checking it all. I think having the input shaft that far in aligned the clutch much better than the alignment tool provided. First try to get it back in and it slid in like it wanted to be there. Got a few more things to button up tomorrow and it should be back on the ground.

 

[Bird 426]

This is great. Let us know how it drives.