Ticking noise, 383, can't locate the source
- Thread starter matthon
- Start date
matthon
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure as there are different wear patterns, and this is new territory for me.
Some are worn on the top part of the ball, some have a ring worn at the top.
The Comp rockers look decent, and someone even provided feedback that they installed on 440 Stealth heads on a 383, which is what I have. Not married to them, but I also don't want a pushrod to bust thru a rocker, which appears to be in the future as the ones contacting the retainers have the wear on the top of the ball.
They appear to be adjustable but whether they are or not isn't included in the info.
Looking up now.
In your Tick 5 video, I noticed what looks like an arc from under #4 spark plug area, which may or may not be a reflection from something. Have you run the engine in the dark and looked for arcing?
matthon
Well-Known Member
I did think about checking for arcing, iirc I ran it in the garage with the lights off.
I know for sure I pulled all the plug wires and looked for burns or cracks.
The wires are fairly new, but the best part is they have porcelain boots, very pleased with the quality.
I have lightly filed the areas where the rockers came in contact with the retainers, bolted them on, rotated the engine manually, and checked for clearance.
I had to take the assembly off 5 times to clear the #3 intake.
The goal is to run it once more, verify the ticking is gone, quickly check other items if needed, shut it down, degrease it, and invest in some adjustable rockers.
I actually found a thread on here from March, exact same heads, engine, issue, wear marks on the rockers, everything.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/stumped-with-a-383.169719/#post-911309471
Although the conclusion was different in that thread, the issue seems pretty obvious to me now.
Where the pushrod meets the rocker, some rockers have a circle wear pattern just outside the oil hole, some have a full wear pattern from the oil hole to the center, like the pushrod is drilling a hole thru the rocker.
The rockers that are contacting the retainers are the ones with the full wear pattern.
This is essentially drilling thru the rocker, lowering it on the pushrod, which makes it contact the retainer.
My understanding is eventually the pushrods will punch thru the rockers.
Honestly I don't recall how everything was upgraded on the build except the rockers. Although the stock ones lasted 8 years, it wasn't a good choice, but I didn't know any better.
Now I'm trying to learn myself on adjustable rockers so I can decide on what to get, install, measure for pushrods, and get back on the road.
Maybe the Mancini ones, however at this point I don't know what 1.5 vs 1.6 means or why my stock rockers are offset and theirs are not, but I'll figure it out.
https://www.manciniracing.com/b16alrowibih.html
The alternative is the 'matching' non-adjustable roller rockers.
I know for sure I pulled all the plug wires and looked for burns or cracks.
The wires are fairly new, but the best part is they have porcelain boots, very pleased with the quality.
I have lightly filed the areas where the rockers came in contact with the retainers, bolted them on, rotated the engine manually, and checked for clearance.
I had to take the assembly off 5 times to clear the #3 intake.
The goal is to run it once more, verify the ticking is gone, quickly check other items if needed, shut it down, degrease it, and invest in some adjustable rockers.
I actually found a thread on here from March, exact same heads, engine, issue, wear marks on the rockers, everything.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/stumped-with-a-383.169719/#post-911309471
Although the conclusion was different in that thread, the issue seems pretty obvious to me now.
Where the pushrod meets the rocker, some rockers have a circle wear pattern just outside the oil hole, some have a full wear pattern from the oil hole to the center, like the pushrod is drilling a hole thru the rocker.
The rockers that are contacting the retainers are the ones with the full wear pattern.
This is essentially drilling thru the rocker, lowering it on the pushrod, which makes it contact the retainer.
My understanding is eventually the pushrods will punch thru the rockers.
Honestly I don't recall how everything was upgraded on the build except the rockers. Although the stock ones lasted 8 years, it wasn't a good choice, but I didn't know any better.
Now I'm trying to learn myself on adjustable rockers so I can decide on what to get, install, measure for pushrods, and get back on the road.
Maybe the Mancini ones, however at this point I don't know what 1.5 vs 1.6 means or why my stock rockers are offset and theirs are not, but I'll figure it out.
https://www.manciniracing.com/b16alrowibih.html
The alternative is the 'matching' non-adjustable roller rockers.
miller
Well-Known Member
New territory, and willing to get your hands on, is a good thing. Tells you how things work, and what you can tear up.
Rocker arms are a long-winded subject. Many variations/designs, and such. Your two 'cup' photos, right side looks normal stock. Ball end of the push rod, fits into the cup, full surface, and rolls with the flow. (Yeah, I know, have my own way of saying things) Carries the load evenly.
Left photo, the cup isn't cut right, or the ball size is wrong, forming the 'ring' pattern. From what I've been seeing on parts, these days, not all are equal. One reason I refuse to use anything but stock, unless better is needed.
Remember that stock push rods are solid steel rods, with the ball end cut. Constant ball diameter.
If you question ball to cup fit, on rocker arms, you can always do a pattern check, using lubriplate, to see how it is. After-market stuff, is a toss up, you get what you get. And, it's all builder's choice!!
1.5 vs 1.6 rocker arms? 1.5 is what the designers decided was the good ratio, through the valve train. 1.6, kinda like cheaters...a little more lift at the valves, than the cam is ground to.
Long winded...but, point is...if parts don't fit correctly, noises are possible. Not saying that's it...just possible.
miller
Well-Known Member
Aftermarket, new and improved parts are fine, as long as that's what they are.
But, there are times, you have to make them work right, too. Just facts.
But, there are times, you have to make them work right, too. Just facts.
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