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Timing fluctuation question

gtxwannabe

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Gentlemen! I have a stroked 440 HP, hydraulic cam new MSD ditributor and 6AL box. The timing fluctuates about 10 degrees and it's just about impossible to to pinpoint where the timing actually is. Could this be due to "cam walk." I'm going to replace the cam with a mech. roller anyway. Cam buttons should keep the cam in place. Still curious though. If that doesn't fix the problem, I'm at a loss!
 
MSD Troubleshooting site...
http://www.msdignition.com/troubleshooting.aspx
Timing Fluctuations
If your timing seems to be jumping all over the place, check the following items:

What kind of timing light are you using? Many lights have trouble reading the MSD's capacitive discharge multiple sparks. Dial back timing lights are not recommended. Try another non-adjustable light and check the timing again. MSD offers a Timing Light, PN 8990.
Make sure you are not using Solid Core wires.
Inspect the routing of the Magnetic Pickup Harness. It should be routed clear of the coil primary wires and plug wires. It is best to route it along a ground plain such as the firewall, frame or engine block to form a shield around it, or replace the Black magnetic pickup cable with a shielded Gray cable PN 8862, which has a ground wire on one end.
Check the polarity of the magnetic pickup wires of the distributor. Reverse the connectors and check the timing again. For Analog ignitions the correct polarity is whichever orientation gives the most retarded timing. For Digital Ignitions the correct polarity is whichever orientation give the most advanced timing.
On Chevrolet engines, if the timing is retarding inspect for cam-walk. This is especially prevalent on engines with a chrome or stock type replacement timing chain cover that is actually bowing forward allowing the cam to "walk", due to thin stamping. To check this, wedge something in-between the water pump and timing chain cover to keep the camp from walking. If this corrects the timing fluctuation, replace the timing chain cover.
Worn distributor gear, inspect the distributor gear for excess wear or incorrect gear mesh if the gear is riding too high or too low on the cam gear. If correct the wear pattern should show the gear mesh in the center of the gear.
 
Also check your distributor springs / cams. Make sure you have springs on the cams and if they look really light try stepping up to something a bit heavier. Mine fluxuates at idle too - but my idle is about 13-1400rpm and I use very light weight springs. They are partially opening at this rpm and the timing jumps all over. I set my total timing at 3000+ rpm and don't worry about the initial.
 
Flat tappet lobes are ground with a taper that holds the cam in the bore and prevents walk, so, no, it's not cam walk. This is why rollers absolutely require some form of button to give the cam some preload against the timing cover and keep it in place. Since roller cams are ground with zero taper, they lack the taper that helps keep flat tappets in place.
 
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if these things don't fix it you can put a torrington bearing on the end of the MSD shaft. Dvorak machine has it. also crane makes a distributor drive gear made of a new special steel that can be used with roller cams so you don't have to use the bronze crap. Another thing to check is the bushing in the block is not worn out for the intermediate shaft.
 
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