Torque Converter Question

[Sweet5ltr]

Cyty, can you please tell us what heads, intake manifold, exhaust, and carburetor you're running?

You want the converter that matches the engines torque curve. Your engine is not a 8.1ltr big-block Chevy that has a torque peak @ 3,200 RPM, it's a 6.3ltr, torque production isn't impressive at 1,800-2,000 RPM; regardless of what the cam-card may tell us. With a 3.23 gear, the correct torque converter will dramatically increase performance, as it increases torque multiplication (like higher numerical rear end gearing). Reality here is, you can't go wrong with a 2,800-3,200 RPM 10" converter. I know FTI offers a lifetime warranty for $200.

Yes, you need a transmission cooler, regardless if you're running a factory / non-factory converter. Remember, when you run a transmission cooler, you'll also be increasing fluid capacity. Greatest cause of transmission failure is heat.

You may also want to opt for a deep-sump transmission pan and appropriate filter extension kit.

Here is a fairly inexpensive setup;
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P3690730AC/10002/-1

 

[BSB67]

Yea, my engine specs was maxing out the converter and yesterday after reading the details on that b&m 2000 stall it stated that it’s not for big blocks or supercharger applications. I’m chalking it up as a learned lesson but will definitely make sure I get the proper converter and transmission cooler this time.

Your 383 simply does not have enough power to hurt any torque converter. You have a defective converter and a warranty issue.

 

[wyrmrider]

agree
but save the oil in the B&M or give it the sniff test to see if you fried it
still do not know if even had a in radiator tank cooler
you would have to heat all the oil in the sump in order to get the temp in the converter up where it would kill the seals or thrust washers (should be needle bearings though)
If you just stall out a converter and keep at it you can get the converter only ip but tell me you did not do that
if you were using +4 - well it really can take the heat being synthetic
really curious what went wrong with you converter

 

[Cyty Slykers]

Your 383 simply does not have enough power to hurt any torque converter. You have a defective converter and a warranty issue.

They only give a 1 yr warranty on the converter and due to the fact that I’ve only put 630 miles in 3 yrs on a freshly built engine unfortunately I can’t request a refund or replacement since the warranty has expired.

 

[Cyty Slykers]

Cyty, can you please tell us what heads, intake manifold, exhaust, and carburetor you're running?

You want the converter that matches the engines torque curve. Your engine is not a 8.1ltr big-block Chevy that has a torque peak @ 3,200 RPM, it's a 6.3ltr, torque production isn't impressive at 1,800-2,000 RPM; regardless of what the cam-card may tell us. With a 3.23 gear, the correct torque converter will dramatically increase performance, as it increases torque multiplication (like higher numerical rear end gearing). Reality here is, you can't go wrong with a 2,800-3,200 RPM 10" converter. I know FTI offers a lifetime warranty for $200.

Yes, you need a transmission cooler, regardless if you're running a factory / non-factory converter. Remember, when you run a transmission cooler, you'll also be increasing fluid capacity. Greatest cause of transmission failure is heat.

You may also want to opt for a deep-sump transmission pan and appropriate filter extension kit.

Here is a fairly inexpensive setup;
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P3690730AC/10002/-1

I have an Edelbrock performer dual plane intake, 670 Holley Street avenger, reg 383 Mopar Heads, Black jack headers(pops had them since the 90s).

 

[wyrmrider]

still give it a sniff and check if the fluid is burnt and eyeball some in a clear glass jar
you do not want this to happen again so keep investigating
wonder what B&M would charge to "refresh" it
so do you or do you not have a cooler

 

[dvw]

Long story short my build was too much for the B&M torque master 2000 stall so now I’m trying to see what’s the right stall to go with.

How do you know it's the converter?
Doug

 

[Cyty Slykers]

Metal Rattling noise is coming from the bell housing. When I put the car in drive I can hear it.

 

[khryslerkid]

Metal Rattling noise is coming from the bell housing. When I put the car in drive I can hear it.

Are you sure it's not just the exhaust hitting on something? Maybe something loose causing the noise? Remove the inspection plate and check torque converter bolts?

 

[Cyty Slykers]

Are you sure it's not just the exhaust hitting on something? Maybe something loose causing the noise? Remove the inspection plate and check torque converter bolts?

Yea my pops and I jacked it up to inspect the exhaust, flex plate, transmission etc .

 

[451Mopar]

Was the converter easy or hard to install?
Asking because I had a transmission with the earlier 19-spline input shaft when it should have has the 24-spline shaft. The converter went in?, but did not feel right, really tight and the converter broke.

 

[Cyty Slykers]

Never trust an engine shop that recommends any B&M torque converter first of all. Second, you built a mild-performance engine that makes peak torque @ 4,400 RPM; why would anyone ever recommend a 2,000 RPM stall converter?! Look for a PTC / FTI / (any reputable race branded) 10" 3,000-3,500 flash stall speed converter. They can build you a converter that will drive like stock, meaning, it will be tight for daily driving (moving at red light without applying brakes) yet instantly flash to the stall speed when you apply WOT. Even my 9" FTI converter that flashes @ 4,500 RPM is tight driving around town, must hold the brakes at the light, shifts like stock going through the gears.

Also, don't forget installing a good transmission cooler if you don't have one already! (regardless of converter choice).

I just contacted FTI via email and just waiting for them to respond back.

 

[Cyty Slykers]

Was the converter easy or hard to install?
Asking because I had a transmission with the earlier 19-spline input shaft when it should have has the 24-spline shaft. The converter went in?, but did not feel right, really tight and the converter broke.

No issues while installing the converter and the transmission was purchased new a couple yrs ago as well. It’s frustrating when seeking advice from “professionals” and you’re given bad information which leads you to spending more money down the line. It was mind boggling also because initially I thought I had top end motor issues (rockers or lifters), then I was thinking it was coming from the headers.

 

[dvw]

My bet is the flex plate is cracked. Won't know until you pull it out. I ran one of these converters behind a blown small block . Never had an issue. Still running today in another car.
Doug

 

[Cyty Slykers]

My bet is the flex plate is cracked. Won't know until you pull it out. I ran one of these converters behind a blown small block . Never had an issue. Still running today in another car.
Doug

Gotcha, I’ll pull it out to see if it ma cracked...but I still believe that a 2000 stall isn’t enough for the specs of my engine so at some point I’m going to get a converter that is and will definitely take the advice on the transmission cooler and pan.

 

[wyrmrider]

There is also the trick to cut through the big holes on the flex plate arms on one side of the hole or the other- I think the "following side" look at rotation with a hacksaw

 

[rlem1977]

You can also connect with member Greg Ducato on this forum. He owns a transmission shop and could give some good advice.

 

[Cyty Slykers]

You can also connect with member Greg Ducato on this forum. He owns a transmission shop and could give some good advice.

Thanks!

 

[m79ded]

You will get many opinions on this type of thread. There are many of us that had good and bad experiences. I had a TCI 2800 and worked fine with mild engine but after putting in a better engine I decided to go with Ultimate torque converters. Lenny was very patient asked many questions and covered many things. I know it might have been more $$$ than a shelf converter but you get what you pay for and I want to get the most out of this setup.

 

[Cyty Slykers]

I contacted FTI and was recommended a 2800-3200 stall, Hughes Performance recommended a 3000 stall and B&M a 2400 stall. I’m guessing that I’ll also will need to replace my original flex plate as well once I get the new converter...I really appreciate y’all advice/input with this.