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Tranny bellhousing snaped in half!

I have had 8" converters to 10"converters in this trans.I just put a PTC 91/2"converter in it.They will run real close to the bolts until it is bolted to the flexplate.If you are running a turbo action converter and some others they have a smaller hub.Wich it allows the converter to rock a little until it is bolted to the flex plate.

I am running out of thoughts.If it measures the same depth,bolt holes line up,and their is no problems with the trans.You should be driving by now?
 
I use a mini denso starter.I will measure what I can.It is in the car bolted up.
 
67-body,

I just took a look at your pic and moparpoor's pic...and see what i think your issue with the new bell.
Moparpoor's bell mounting bolts are countersunk and you's appear not to be, at least what i see in the pic looks to be the problem.

hope that may solve the mystery

Mike

It looks like his might be countersunk more than mine.... I just found it strange that the gap between the starter mounting flange, and the gap between the bellhousing and block end up being very close to the same dimension.
I think I'll dress the nose of the converter where it fits the crank, and just play around with a few things today..... I imaginge you need every bit of advantage you can get with this setup since you automaticaly loose about 5/8" because of the mounting flange at the pump.
 
I use a mini denso starter.I will measure what I can.It is in the car bolted up.

Thanks for all your help!!!!
I guess I'm missing something...... I'll look it all over one more time before throwing in the towel. I think I'll get it up in place once without the converter, and see how things look... Maybe I'll see something I've missed because the converter blocks the view....????
 
I'm hoping you didn't put the flex plate on backwards.Here are some pics with everything installed.Once you slide the converter ahead and bolt it there is alot of clearance.You can see it in the pics.The snout on the factory starter can be a problem.You can see the clearance in the first pic.
 

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A couple things I notice..... Your converter sets no where near the pump housing / mounting bolts. Mine will touch the mounting bolts because it is a larger dia. and I'm sure it's thicker from mounting tabs to the opposite side of the shell. Also, as mentioned in an earlier post,,,, it does appear as if your mounting flange holes are counter sunk more than mine...??? I'm guesing the starter nose is different between the Nippon Denso and the chrysler starter. When I worked at an autoparts store through college, I discovered that a Toyota starter was thesame mounting and correct dimensions to use on a Mopar.... Later on I seen these "Mini" starters for Mopar being sold,,,,, it was the same starter but cost more!
I just called in for lunch, but before this I was working on the car. I dressed the nose of the converter to better fit the crankshaft, and was about to touch up the flange countersinks a bit to get the bolt heads closer to being flush.
When I purchased my converter, I had a different build in mind and it kind of went a different direction! The stall rating on my Coan is supposed to be up to 4000 rpm so I kept in. I have always planned on buying a 9" to replace it, but when the trans let go my money went to the bellhousing instead. The converter as mentioned is a Coan 40215 Pro-Street version and is listed at 11" and up to 4000 rpm. I read in the JW advertisement that when using it to mate up a specific trans to a big block, that the converter had to be 11" or smaller so this shouldn't be an issue.
Ok, back out to the garage for some more checking....
 
BTW the flex plate is correctly installed..... Thanks for the suggestion though....
 
It is the bellhousing machine work! The countersunk holes "or lack of" aren't deep enough! I fixed the starter mounting issue, but will need a end mill type bit to counter sink the hole more for the mounting flange.... I shouldn't be having to do this!!! The starter should work, and the pump mounting bolt heads should be flush with the inside of the housing....
Well, anyhow, I think I'll have it beat once I get a bit to cut it down properly!
BTW, why do they "Factory" use a gasket washer on the pump bolts if they are blind holes?
I used the rubber O-rings supplied to go between the housing and pump, but why wouldnt they supply rubber coated washers for the pump bolt replacements if fluid was going to be there? Anyhow,,, didn't make sence to me??
I'm pretty sure they are blind holes and with a bolt removed, nothing comes out...
 
moparpoor,,, are you using a main stud girdle too? Or is that a windage tray peeking out?
 
67-body,

I just took a look at your pic and moparpoor's pic...and see what i think your issue with the new bell.
Moparpoor's bell mounting bolts are countersunk and you's appear not to be, at least what i see in the pic looks to be the problem.

hope that may solve the mystery

Mike

Keen eye dude!:werd:
 
Yep,,, just fired it up!!!!!! Aahhh the smell of high octane!!!!!! Mmm, Mmm, Mmm!!!!
Now a few things to button up and I'll see if it all still works........ Keep your fingers crossed!!!!
I'll only have a few hours here and there to work on it with my upcoming schedule though!!
Thanks for all the help guys......
 
What was the fix?

The primary fix for the bellhousing to block fitment, was counter sinking the bolt hols a bit more than it came with and also cleaning up the nose of the converter where it engages the crankshaft.
The starter issue, I had to remove some material from the starter nose for it to fit into the machined recess inside the bellhousing. It was not milled large enough in dia or deep enough to except a standard starter.

Thanks for all the measurements!!!!!!:hello2:
 
:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers Now its time for some:3gears::3gears: Maybe some track time.
 
Test her out !! , Good luck, I'm sitting on pins & needles waiting to here the results...LOL....
 
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